2010 WRX - Oil Consumption during "Break-IN"
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This is a discussion on 2010 WRX - Oil Consumption during "Break-IN" within the General Maintenance, Troubleshooting & Accidents. forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; I purchased a 2010 WRX a little over a month ago and now have about ~2000 miles on it. I ...

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    Registered User hieu1004's Avatar
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    2010 WRX - Oil Consumption during "Break-IN"

    I purchased a 2010 WRX a little over a month ago and now have about ~2000 miles on it. I religiously check my oil at each gas fill up and at my last one, I noticed that I was a little low (not too much....maybe 1/4 of the way down from the F mark). I recently took a longer than usual road trip before checking the oil and everything looked to be good, but it went down afterwards. I know this is within the acceptable range for oil consumption, but is it normal for the motor to burn through any oil during the "break-in" period? Sorry if this has been answered before, but I tried searching. FYI: The oil that is in there is the original factory oil, I have not gotten my first oil change yet (I will at 3k).

    Before I get flamed, yes I followed the break-in procedure . I was fairly gentle during the break-in, made sure to vary my RPMs, and only rev the motor when the motor oil is completely up to operating temperature.
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    Registered User Pavia's Avatar
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    It's normal for the cars to burn up to a quart of oil between oil changes (not that this will always happen. Mine burns very little). You should be fine. Just keep checking it every gas fillup, like your doing.
    06 GTO M6 Quicksilver, SLP 455 Bobcat, LS7 Clutch w/ SS line (RPM tune:373rwhp/373rwtq)
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    Registered User Pavia's Avatar
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    If you want to, you could switch to synthetic oil at the oil change AFTER you do the next 3k change (with regular oil).

    PS. Welcome!
    06 GTO M6 Quicksilver, SLP 455 Bobcat, LS7 Clutch w/ SS line (RPM tune:373rwhp/373rwtq)
    07 WRX TR M5 Garnet Red Pearl w/ Straight PPGs and Cusco front LSD (Agile tune:307whp/343wtq)

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    Registered User hieu1004's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pavia View Post
    If you want to, you could switch to synthetic oil at the oil change AFTER you do the next 3k change (with regular oil).

    PS. Welcome!
    What kind of synthetic do you recommend? I've been doing quite a bit of researching and the consensus seems to be Rotella T6 5w40. However, it is also known that w/the high amount of phosphorus & zinc, it can be bad for our catalytic converter. So I'm not sure what to use really..
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    Registered User Pavia's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hieu1004 View Post
    What kind of synthetic do you recommend? I've been doing quite a bit of researching and the consensus seems to be Rotella T6 5w40. However, it is also known that w/the high amount of phosphorus & zinc, it can be bad for our catalytic converter. So I'm not sure what to use really..
    That question has generated more (conflicting) answers than any other on the car forums...

    Since you ask though, I use Castrol Syntec 0w-30 European Formula (aka German Castrol on the forums). Even though it's 0w-30, it's shear rating is actually better than most 5w-30 oils.

    Mobil 1 is popular, as is Redline.

    Oils like German Castrol (GC) and Mobil 1 are true synthetics, unlike a lot of the stuff that claim it on the autostore shelves (including the domestic formula Castrol Syntec).

    However, if you change your oil often (like 3-5k), it probably won't matter.

    I will say that the GC has quieted my engine significantly though. I may try Mobil 1 0w-40, however. I hear it's even better than the GC.
    Last edited by Pavia; 04-20-2010 at 07:15 PM.
    06 GTO M6 Quicksilver, SLP 455 Bobcat, LS7 Clutch w/ SS line (RPM tune:373rwhp/373rwtq)
    07 WRX TR M5 Garnet Red Pearl w/ Straight PPGs and Cusco front LSD (Agile tune:307whp/343wtq)

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    He simply abides. SD_GR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hieu1004 View Post
    ...Rotella T6 5w40. However, it is also known that w/the high amount of phosphorus & zinc, it can be bad for our catalytic converter. So I'm not sure what to use really..
    High amount of Zn and P in what, Rotella T6? The specification sheet lists API SL, SM; the latter implies IMO a cat-friendly additive package. Do you have an MSDS or even better a VOA, or in any case, what information is there about the Zn and P content of the Rotella?
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    Quote Originally Posted by SD_GR View Post
    High amount of Zn and P in what, Rotella T6? The specification sheet lists API SL, SM; the latter implies IMO a cat-friendly additive package. Do you have an MSDS or even better a VOA, or in any case, what information is there about the Zn and P content of the Rotella?
    I am not sure about the T6 blend, but from what I read on bobistheoilguy.com and some others (Shell rotella T 5w40... - Page 3 - IWSTI.com: Subaru WRX STI Forums), it seems the previous Rotella were high in ZN and P content. But they may have fixed the issue in the new T6 blend? I never used it and am not an expert, so I am not 100% sure, it is just what I have read on the boards.

    I hear Mobile 1 is not very good w/our cars? A lot of folks on NASIOC have reported severe oil consumption resulting in spun bearings. GC I hear is the better than M1? Can I use a 0W-30 all year round in the Seattle area, you guys think?
    Last edited by hieu1004; 04-20-2010 at 07:22 PM.
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    Registered User Pavia's Avatar
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    I disagree that Rotella is a "consensus", but I also don't see any negatives to it. Any Blackstone results posted we can see that show cat killing levels? I'll check BITOG...
    06 GTO M6 Quicksilver, SLP 455 Bobcat, LS7 Clutch w/ SS line (RPM tune:373rwhp/373rwtq)
    07 WRX TR M5 Garnet Red Pearl w/ Straight PPGs and Cusco front LSD (Agile tune:307whp/343wtq)

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    Registered User hieu1004's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pavia View Post
    I disagree that Rotella is a "consensus", but I also don't see any negatives to it. Any Blackstone results posted we can see that show cat killing levels? I'll check BITOG...
    I posted a couple threads asking because I am not an expert and am just learning. I could not find any evidence that specifically says that people ruined the cats, but just ran across a few discussions saying that it COULD have the potential to. But again, I don't have any blackstone links. If you find more info, please post. Thanks for your replies, it is very helpful.
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    Registered User Pavia's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hieu1004 View Post
    I am not sure about the T6 blend, but from what I read on bobistheoilguy.com and some others (Shell rotella T 5w40... - Page 3 - IWSTI.com: Subaru WRX STI Forums), it seems the previous Rotella were high in ZN and P content. But they may have fixed the issue in the new T6 blend? I never used it and am not an expert, so I am not 100% sure, it is just what I have read on the boards.

    I hear Mobile 1 is not very good w/our cars? A lot of folks on NASIOC have reported severe oil consumption resulting in spun bearings. GC I hear is the better than M1? Can I use a 0W-30 all year round in the Seattle area, you guys think?
    Yes, you can use GC all year round.

    I don't buy the M1 haters. I used it with no problems, but mostly, heck... just look at the factory fills on M1 (like Porsche and Vettes).
    06 GTO M6 Quicksilver, SLP 455 Bobcat, LS7 Clutch w/ SS line (RPM tune:373rwhp/373rwtq)
    07 WRX TR M5 Garnet Red Pearl w/ Straight PPGs and Cusco front LSD (Agile tune:307whp/343wtq)

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    Registered User hieu1004's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pavia View Post
    Yes, you can use GC all year round.

    I don't buy the M1 haters. I used it with no problems, but mostly, heck... just look at the factory fills on M1 (like Porsche and Vettes).
    Awesome, I might just have to try the GC. Is there a reason you are switching to M1 from GC? Does your car burn any oil?
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    Registered User Pavia's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hieu1004 View Post
    Awesome, I might just have to try the GC. Is there a reason you are switching to M1 from GC? Does your car burn any oil?
    I wasn't really burning oil on the M1 5w-30 (either in the Subie or my Goat). However, you find that the Boxer engine (and the LSx engines, for that matter) are very loud. Mine sounded like a sewing machine on the dino oil and M1 5w-30. I switched to GC and 90% of the ticking and tapping went away. Of course, one can't avoid the injector noise, but oh well.

    The GC in my Goat didn't quiet it like the Subie. They're pretty noisey engines. A friend on LS1GTO recommended M1 0w-40 for an even higher shear rate.
    06 GTO M6 Quicksilver, SLP 455 Bobcat, LS7 Clutch w/ SS line (RPM tune:373rwhp/373rwtq)
    07 WRX TR M5 Garnet Red Pearl w/ Straight PPGs and Cusco front LSD (Agile tune:307whp/343wtq)

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    Registered User Pavia's Avatar
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    The good thing about GC is it's usually on sale every month at one of the major autostores (like 5qts and a filter for $25)
    06 GTO M6 Quicksilver, SLP 455 Bobcat, LS7 Clutch w/ SS line (RPM tune:373rwhp/373rwtq)
    07 WRX TR M5 Garnet Red Pearl w/ Straight PPGs and Cusco front LSD (Agile tune:307whp/343wtq)

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    Quote Originally Posted by hieu1004 View Post
    I am not sure about the T6 blend, but from what I read on bobistheoilguy.com and some others (Shell rotella T 5w40... - Page 3 - IWSTI.com: Subaru WRX STI Forums), it seems the previous Rotella were high in ZN and P content. But they may have fixed the issue in the new T6 blend?
    Although there is nothing to fix, it is true that SM formulations generally have lower P. I've used both SM and SL formulations in my car for years and my catcons have not been affected. In any case, whether it was an issue in the past it is almost certainly not an issue with any SL formulation.
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    The world breaks everyone and afterward many are strong in the broken places. Ernest Hemingway
    I lied. I cheated. I bribed men to cover the crimes of other men. I am an accessory to murder. But the most damning thing of all... I think I can live with it. And if I had to do it all over again - I would. Benjamin Sisko
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    Registered User hieu1004's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SD_GR View Post
    Although there is nothing to fix, it is true that SM formulations generally have lower P. I've used both SM and SL formulations in my car for years and my catcons have not been affected. In any case, whether it was an issue in the past it is almost certainly not an issue with any SL formulation.
    Sorry for being a newb, but what is the difference between SL & SM? Do the SM's have less additives? Would you recommend the SL or SM formulation for me? Being that I drive pretty moderately, sometimes spirited, and living in the Seattle, WA area?
    Last edited by hieu1004; 04-21-2010 at 06:25 AM.
    Stink-eye Mob #1004

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