*How to Ask a Technical Question!

**Donkey** · 02-14-2010 08:07 AM

I made this thread to help members not familiar with cars or "mechanically challenged" present their automotive dilemma in a clear and concise manner. By doing so it greatly increases the odds of diagnosing the problem more efficiently and keeps the more experienced residents here from just flat out ignoring your posts or doing the back and forth banter dance of having to extract information from you (aka: "pulling teeth"). If it requires work just to get to explain your problem ,how much work is it going to require to help you actually fix it? See where I'm going? Help us help you. It's all in the details peeps!

Provide as much info as you can in you posts
*All performance mods (80-90% of the problems are due to improper modding/mods)
*octane of gasoline being used
*Year/model of vehicle/miles on vehicle
*When the problem started (when I changed a part vs out of the blue)
*If you have tried to fix the problem list what you have done
*If you have the ability to datalog definately run a log.

If your car has a CEL(check engine light) that means you have a DTC (diagnostic trouble code).
Before we can even help you get the code read. It makes no sense to ask why you have a CEL or to post that you have one and not post what the code is. We cannot read the code for you,so get it read. Most Autozones will do it for free. FYI- if you get the code read 95% of the time you can find how to fix the problem by merely searching by using the code number. Also the F.A.Q.'s /Stickies will contain general information about mods that cause CEL/DTC and some of the fixes.

Use complete sentences and grammar!
If we can't understand what your even saying or think your speaking a different language when your not, how fast do you think you problem is going to be solved? Please re-read what you have wrote. If it doesn't make sense to you it most definitely won't make sense to us!

Be specific with your question!
"My car is acting up,whats wrong?" Uhhhh.....okay.

There are a TON of people on here that are very knowledgeable on these particular cars and all their little quirks. The more data and details you can provide using the correct (or close

) terminology the better the "picture" will be painted. So please use these guidelines to help us help you!

**wrxtreme06** · 02-14-2010 08:36 AM

i believe the title should say "ask" not "as"

i'd say we should make this a sticky... but people dont read stickies anyway sooo yeah.

**EvoEatr** · 02-14-2010 10:39 AM

Originally Posted by wrxtreme06

i believe the title should say "ask" not "as"

i'd say we should make this a sticky... but people dont read stickies anyway sooo yeah.

+1..Sticky...

Good Idea Donkey...

**brfatal** · 02-14-2010 02:50 PM

How to ass a technical question?

I would also like to add that people need to be specific with their questions. I've read a lot of threads that literally read as "I'm getting coilovers and have 18" wheels, will they fit ok?

".

**Donkey** · 02-14-2010 04:54 PM

Whoops! Not sure where my "k" went!

But unfortunately I can't edit my thread title

. True people don't read the Stickies much but at least instead of having to constantly post the same answer over and over you can just link a thread.

**Sinister** · 03-11-2010 12:05 PM

Originally Posted by Donkey

Whoops! Not sure where my "k" went!

But unfortunately I can't edit my thread title

. True people don't read the Stickies much but at least instead of having to constantly post the same answer over and over you can just link a thread.

Admin can

**DUB** · 03-11-2010 10:09 PM

Originally Posted by Donkey

***how to as a technical question**

Originally Posted by brfatal

**Anub1s** · 03-11-2010 10:22 PM

Well stated, and that Orson Wells gif never gets old

.

It's unbelievably difficult to help people who don't offer specific details on their vehicles. Just describing a sound or smell isn't enough. Details are what will get your answer faster. We can give generic answers that MAY help, but to narrow down the issue at large we have to know as many details as possible.

***TheJ*** · 04-11-2010 02:07 PM

Originally Posted by Sinister

Admin can

Actually all mods can in their respective forums as well. The work around would be to move the thread to your forum change it and then move it back.

**Donkey** · 04-11-2010 03:50 PM

Originally Posted by TheJ

Actually all mods can in their respective forums as well. The work around would be to move the thread to your forum change it and then move it back.

Ahh....sneaky sneaky.

**Ventura'sWRX** · 04-11-2010 04:09 PM

I can't wait for the day when I will understand what you all are talking about. I plan on being here for a long time.

**mazdatech75** · 05-23-2010 12:51 PM

I'm a vw trained tech working at mazda now so i have some boxer experience but.....i bought this 2002 wrx it looks like the short block has been replace not so long ago (mexican chrome all over the block0 and its as dry as a popcorn fart. mil light comes on with a code for camshaft position sensor so i back probe it continuity good wires all good to pcm i figure its got 200000 km i but a new cam sensor pull the cover off check the belt looks ok put it back together and clear the code. its good for a couple of days and then the light comes back on and while the wife is driving it starts making this ticking/ knocking noise.i pull the covers off and check the t belt timing and find its out a tooth on the drivers side intake cam. I replace all the idlers,pulleys,tensioner and water pump and belt,recheck timing 3 times its spot on.fire it up and still tick/knock........warm or cold...my question is how is the valve adjustment to set up and is it prone to noise and failure particularly on the drivers side head.just want to know if its worth investigating and repairing or should i just replace with 2.5l turbo engine?

**Donkey** · 05-26-2010 12:14 PM

Originally Posted by mazdatech75

I'm a vw trained tech working at mazda now so i have some boxer experience but.....i bought this 2002 wrx it looks like the short block has been replace not so long ago (mexican chrome all over the block0 and its as dry as a popcorn fart. mil light comes on with a code for camshaft position sensor so i back probe it continuity good wires all good to pcm i figure its got 200000 km i but a new cam sensor pull the cover off check the belt looks ok put it back together and clear the code. its good for a couple of days and then the light comes back on and while the wife is driving it starts making this ticking/ knocking noise.i pull the covers off and check the t belt timing and find its out a tooth on the drivers side intake cam. I replace all the idlers,pulleys,tensioner and water pump and belt,recheck timing 3 times its spot on.fire it up and still tick/knock........warm or cold...my question is how is the valve adjustment to set up and is it prone to noise and failure particularly on the drivers side head.just want to know if its worth investigating and repairing or should i just replace with 2.5l turbo engine?

Ok...........this was a sticky on "how to ask a technical question",not "post your technical questions here"

. The boxer motors are known for noise and the valve adjustment is done by shims. It is a spring and bucket assembley.

***RayfieldsWRX*** · 05-26-2010 02:02 PM

I would also ease up on the "Mexican chrome" style comments. It was noted in our moderator forums for being pretty close to the line for racism.

**Nofxman** · 06-29-2010 02:55 PM

Well my air bag light came on around 55000 K miles, and it comes on during the first start up and turns off once you turn the car off. I called the dealership and it is going to cost me 90$ just for them to tell me what is wrong. Should I even worry about this light? It is more of a pain in the ass, then anything. If I need to fix it, what do I do?

Nofxman