Brakes Shake after new pads?
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This is a discussion on Brakes Shake after new pads? within the General Maintenance, Troubleshooting & Accidents. forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; I just changed the front pads on my 04 wrx and now when i brake at 50mph or higher the ...

  1. #1
    Registered User Tuca's Avatar
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    Brakes Shake after new pads?

    I just changed the front pads on my 04 wrx and now when i brake at 50mph or higher the wheel shakes and i can feel it in the pedal

    just before i did the pad change i had no probs.

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    Registered User Gancherov's Avatar
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    From what I know it sounds like your rotors need to be milled. As brakes wear down they also wear down the rotor, sometimes leaving grooves. When you put a new brake pad on to a worn-in and grooved rotor it can result in brake squeal and vibrations and shakes.

    Take a look at your brake rotors and slide your thumb across the surface, if it feels uneven then take them off and get them milled. Should cost like $15 per rotor.

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    Registered User Poohbear's Avatar
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    Sounds like you have warped rotors... You should have those either turned or get new rotors before they begin to wear out your new pads.
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    UnBanned Sinister's Avatar
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    Exactly. You didn't get your rotors turned (milled)... and on top of that, did you bed your new brake pads properly? I'm guessing since you didn't know to turn your rotors, that you didn't bed the new pads. What kind of pads did you get, and what rotors are they on?
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    Registered User Tuca's Avatar
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    i got some cheapo napa pads cause im broke 45$ the rotors on it are stock and have 68k on them.

    is taking off the rotors easy? i have only driven less then a couple miles on the new pads
    Last edited by Tuca; 11-19-2009 at 06:11 AM.

  7. #6
    Registered User Poohbear's Avatar
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    Probably not to bad... I haven't done a wrx brakes yet but I imagine they are similar... so you would pop off the wheel remove the caliper; there will probably be a set screw or two hold your rotor in place, you will have to pop that off... The set screw if probably seized pretty badly so some deep creep sea foam or PB blaster and an impact screw driver will help nice... You dont need the set screw with the new rotors. The set screw's are used during factory assembly. Heck your new rotors may not even have a hole for the set screw... So dont be afraid to drill the screw if they are seized badly.
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    Admiral Ackbar the 1st mycologist's Avatar
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    Allow me to contradict everyone.

    Modern rotors do not warp hardly ever and it takes a hell of a lot to do it. Vibrations come from heat causing uneven deposits - in your case as Kevin said probably from not bedding in the pads. Milling the rotors reduces their mass, then they heat up more. This causes them to be more likely to cause vibrations from uneven deposits. The cheap ass wearever rotors are every bit better than an old rusty milled rotor by far. If you go out and properly bed your pads it may cure it. Otherwise get new ones for marginally more than milling.

    Oh, and they pop off after you remove the wheels & calipers (just FYI) there are no retainers. Make sure the parking brake is off for the rear though.
    Last edited by mycologist; 11-19-2009 at 07:54 PM.
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    UnBanned Sinister's Avatar
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    Mycologist,

    First off, the OEM rotors have a spec that they can be turned (milled/resurfaced, etc) within. Secondly, the actual turning process only shaves down ~ .005 to .010 inches. Not enough to change the heat retention properties of a rotor that has a 12" face. At least not enough for an average driver to notice, or care. In addition, a larg part of the turning process is not only to remove deformities, but also to remove the deposits, and groovings that the previous brake pads with a different compound has left on the face of the rotor. One should always turn a rotor between brake pad changes unless the compounds are very similar. BigSky told me that the Ferodo 2500 and 3000's are so similar in compound make-up that I'm able to get away with not milling/turning the rotors after track day events. Just food for thought!

    -Kevin
    Last edited by Sinister; 11-19-2009 at 08:41 PM.
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  10. #9
    Registered User Tuca's Avatar
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    got new rotors but broke the bolts holding the caliper to the wheel hub spindle thingy lol. they was on so tight could not even turn them a lil. now i gotta drill out the broken bolts

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    Admiral Ackbar the 1st mycologist's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sinister View Post
    Mycologist,

    First off, the OEM rotors have a spec that they can be turned (milled/resurfaced, etc) within. Secondly, the actual turning process only shaves down ~ .005 to .010 inches. Not enough to change the heat retention properties of a rotor that has a 12" face. At least not enough for an average driver to notice, or care. In addition, a larg part of the turning process is not only to remove deformities, but also to remove the deposits, and groovings that the previous brake pads with a different compound has left on the face of the rotor. One should always turn a rotor between brake pad changes unless the compounds are very similar. BigSky told me that the Ferodo 2500 and 3000's are so similar in compound make-up that I'm able to get away with not milling/turning the rotors after track day events. Just food for thought!

    -Kevin
    I could understand that for someone who is really going through pads and tracking etc. In this case, talking about 68K mile rotors getting milled, I would recommend replacing them much more than milling. Much of the mass lost is the actual previous pad wear (mine had a pretty big lip by 60K) but yes there is a spec they can test against. IMO a new $30 rotor beats the pants off an old worn rotor with chunks of rust coming off in other places etc. that is going to cost what like $20 to turn down (a bit of a guess).

    Quote Originally Posted by Tuca View Post
    got new rotors but broke the bolts holding the caliper to the wheel hub spindle thingy lol. they was on so tight could not even turn them a lil. now i gotta drill out the broken bolts
    Bummer! PB blaster is crucial for this type of job.
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  12. #11
    Registered User Poohbear's Avatar
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    PB blaster is a god send... But I have found sea foam deep creep works a touch better... In fact I recommended both to him before he started this job, tisk tisk tisk...

    As for mill pricing depends where you live I guess... Here we pay 3-5 dollars per rotor at most. Exceptions are larger super duty and up trucks. Those dudes can run about 20 a pop to turn, but the flip side is the rotors are 70+ each.
    Last edited by Poohbear; 11-20-2009 at 10:02 AM.
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    Registered User wrx wagone's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mycologist View Post
    I could understand that for someone who is really going through pads and tracking etc. In this case, talking about 68K mile rotors getting milled, I would recommend replacing them much more than milling. Much of the mass lost is the actual previous pad wear (mine had a pretty big lip by 60K) but yes there is a spec they can test against. IMO a new $30 rotor beats the pants off an old worn rotor with chunks of rust coming off in other places etc. that is going to cost what like $20 to turn down (a bit of a guess).
    I also agree.
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  15. #14
    UnBanned Sinister's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mycologist View Post
    I could understand that for someone who is really going through pads and tracking etc. In this case, talking about 68K mile rotors getting milled, I would recommend replacing them much more than milling. Much of the mass lost is the actual previous pad wear (mine had a pretty big lip by 60K) but yes there is a spec they can test against. IMO a new $30 rotor beats the pants off an old worn rotor with chunks of rust coming off in other places etc. that is going to cost what like $20 to turn down (a bit of a guess).
    I fully agree at 68k miles that new ones are better than turned ones. Brembo Blanks have great reviews and aren't very much cashola. But with $45 pads... This guy isn't looking for much more than the ability to stop in normal traffic. at $5-7 to turn each rotor, I'd recommend that he'd just turn them. Blanks are going to cost $100-200 for all four, and this guy is obviously on a budget if he's buying NAPA pads. If they're within OEM Spec, my opinion is turn them. If they're out of OEM spec, then some OEM style blanks would be great.

    Just one man's opinion.
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    Admiral Ackbar the 1st mycologist's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sinister View Post
    I fully agree at 68k miles that new ones are better than turned ones. Brembo Blanks have great reviews and aren't very much cashola. But with $45 pads... This guy isn't looking for much more than the ability to stop in normal traffic. at $5-7 to turn each rotor, I'd recommend that he'd just turn them. Blanks are going to cost $100-200 for all four, and this guy is obviously on a budget if he's buying NAPA pads. If they're within OEM Spec, my opinion is turn them. If they're out of OEM spec, then some OEM style blanks would be great.

    Just one man's opinion.
    Funny thing was I got the brembos for the fronts when I did mine off ebay and they didn't fit so I got the cheap ass AZ ones in the middle of the job. About a year later I did the outback and the brembos were the right size (then noticed the # matched) so my wife got the brembos.

    The cheap ones are holding up excellently against my axxis ultimates but I am not super hard on brakes preferring forward and lateral Gs (plus there are a lot more corners than straights here).
    Last edited by mycologist; 11-20-2009 at 11:25 AM. Reason: tired - changed is to are before grammar czar nails me
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