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This is a discussion on sudden spike in rpm. within the General Maintenance, Troubleshooting & Accidents. forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; Originally Posted by AsILayDying Sooby, will do. I will check the terminals and make sure its free of corosion and ...

  1. #16
    Admiral Ackbar the 1st mycologist's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AsILayDying View Post
    Sooby, will do. I will check the terminals and make sure its free of corosion and make sure its tightened cause if thats the issue great. This is exactly why I posted this question on the forum. To get many other takes on what it could or might be. Thanks for all the help guys
    No problem. We were all new at this once. Think of it this way - your motor is on one side, and your wheels are on the other. In between is the clutch. Everything else is hard direct connections (e.g. axles - if they break you go nowhere) except your differentials. The differentials are responsible for distributing your power from wheel to wheel (i.e. they cause different problems). So, just remember that if your wheels are going a different speed (MPH) than your motor (RPM) then your clutch is slipping.
    "From a little spark may burst a mighty flame." - Dante
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  3. #17
    Registered User AsILayDying's Avatar
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    Ok now that Im pretty sure its the clutch I have a question. I am currently stock aside from a CBE, I want to go stage 2 this coming august (up-down pipe, intake and pro-tune) is it important for me to get a stage 1 clutch or can I go with the OEM Exedy clutch kit. Or is it a waste of time and money. Looking for the most bang for the buck. thanks
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  4. #18
    Administrator Trainrex's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mycologist View Post
    No problem. We were all new at this once. Think of it this way - your motor is on one side, and your wheels are on the other. In between is the clutch. Everything else is hard direct connections (e.g. axles - if they break you go nowhere) except your differentials. The differentials are responsible for distributing your power from wheel to wheel (i.e. they cause different problems). So, just remember that if your wheels are going a different speed (MPH) than your motor (RPM) then your clutch is slipping.
    Here's a much easier explanation.

    The clutch is the coupler between your engine and wheels. When you push in the clutch pedal, you undo the coupler. When you let the clutch pedal out, you lock the coupler. When a clutch goes bad, the coupler is slipping.

    While this isn't a correct technical explanation, it gets the point across to the layman.

  5. #19
    Registered User Sooby-Doo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AsILayDying View Post
    Ok now that Im pretty sure its the clutch I have a question. I am currently stock aside from a CBE, I want to go stage 2 this coming august (up-down pipe, intake and pro-tune) is it important for me to get a stage 1 clutch or can I go with the OEM Exedy clutch kit. Or is it a waste of time and money. Looking for the most bang for the buck. thanks
    Clutch stages are a tough call since everyone has different preferences and driving ability. I was at about 240 whp for about 3 yrs and made my stock OEM clutch last 93k miles...other people kill theirs in 15-20k with stock 225 crank hp.

    Some people think stage 2 is too tough on your leg...others think stage 1 is too soft. I know this isn't helping much other than to probably confuse you more...lol, sorry about that However, I think it's important to know since you will more than likely get 20 different answers, all of which are probably correct for the person who is responding.

    I personally go for the strongest clutch I think I can deal with in traffic which is Stage 2. That being said, a stage 1 clutch under the foot of a decent driver who doesn't ride it all the time will probably hold any power up to 350whp for several tens of thousands of miles. I personally would not get anything less than Stage 1 unless you are just planning on keeping stock or have an extremely weak calf muscle..

    Tough call man...good luck with your decision.
    Last edited by Sooby-Doo; 05-15-2009 at 11:08 AM.
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  6. #20
    UnBanned Sinister's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sooby-Doo View Post
    I personally go for the strongest clutch I think I can deal with in traffic
    I disagree. On any drivetrain, the clutch is the weakest point. If you put a stage 2/3 clutch in there, it's more likely for you to damage the transmission because the clutch is no longer the weak point.

    Plus the shudder on a stage 2/3 is going to be worse than a stage 1.
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  7. #21
    Registered User Sooby-Doo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sinister View Post
    I disagree. On any drivetrain, the clutch is the weakest point. If you put a stage 2/3 clutch in there, it's more likely for you to damage the transmission because the clutch is no longer the weak point.

    Plus the shudder on a stage 2/3 is going to be worse than a stage 1.
    I "sort of" agree with what your saying as a general rule, but that's why I chose my wording carefully and said "I personally go with"...not "I personally recommend".

    I know how I can drive and what I'm able to pull off. Clutches less than stage 3 don't shutter if you drive them properly. I've owned two Stage 2 Clutches (one ACT & one Clutchmasters) neither of which ever shuttered.

    But yes, OP, what Sinister says is true...for the most part (though the 02/03 clutch being weaker than a the tranny is somewhat debatable.) Many Many people have busted their stock tranny with a stock/OEM clutch so...again, all how you drive IMO.
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    addendum...what I don't recommend you do is get a lightened (or at least overly lightened (less than 15lb)) flywheel. That WILL chatter like naked Hawaiian's teeth in the Ididerod...lol
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  9. #23
    UnBanned Sinister's Avatar
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    I have a streetlight flywheel, and an ACT stage one clutch. I chatter mildly, but after learning to drive with it, I don't chatter any more.
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  10. #24
    Registered User AsILayDying's Avatar
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    So I guess what you are saying is.......

    Stage 1 Clutch with a Flywheel not super light. Ok, sounds good, now does anyone know where I can find good prices for either an Exedy or ACT clutch and flywheel. Im just looking for best bang for the buck. Hard times but clutch needs to be done. Thanks for the help guys.
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  11. #25
    Registered User Sooby-Doo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AsILayDying View Post
    So I guess what you are saying is.......

    Stage 1 Clutch with a Flywheel not super light. Ok, sounds good, now does anyone know where I can find good prices for either an Exedy or ACT clutch and flywheel. Im just looking for best bang for the buck. Hard times but clutch needs to be done. Thanks for the help guys.
    Check with Josh @ Import Image...he usually has really good prices and has probably the highest vendor rating on Nabisco. He's local to me so I actually know him and always recommend him because he is a stickler for customer service...tell him Sooby-Doo (Shane) recommended him and ask for any special "Florida Subarus" discount .

    Quote Originally Posted by Sinister View Post
    I have a streetlight flywheel, and an ACT stage one clutch. I chatter mildly, but after learning to drive with it, I don't chatter any more.
    That's sweet! What weight are those...13lbs? Or do they have options for weight? Never had a Stage 1 clutch myself (at least not on my rex) but if you can drive a 13 lb or so flywheel without shutter then that combination sounds promising! 4 or 6 puck...or full disk?

    What tq is the stg 1 rated at? (EDIT: I can just look this up unless you happen to know off the top of your head...thx!)
    Last edited by Sooby-Doo; 05-15-2009 at 03:31 PM.
    S&R Built 2.5/2.0 '03 Hybrid w/ PE1818
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  12. #26
    UnBanned Sinister's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AsILayDying View Post
    So I guess what you are saying is.......

    Stage 1 Clutch with a Flywheel not super light. Ok, sounds good, now does anyone know where I can find good prices for either an Exedy or ACT clutch and flywheel. Im just looking for best bang for the buck. Hard times but clutch needs to be done. Thanks for the help guys.
    Check supporting vendors.
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  13. #27
    UnBanned Sinister's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sooby-Doo View Post
    Check with Josh @ Import Image...he usually has really good prices and has probably the highest vendor rating on Nabisco. He's local to me so I actually know him and always recommend him because he is a stickler for customer service...tell him Sooby-Doo (Shane) recommended him and ask for any special "Florida Subarus" discount .


    I bought my Exhaust from Josh, and had good service. I bought my Clutch / Flywheel package from JSC Speed... they price matched, and I also had great service. When I was having a clutch chirp their tech service line helped me pinpoint the problem


    That's sweet! What weight are those...13lbs? Or do they have options for weight? Never had a Stage 1 clutch myself (at least not on my rex) but if you can drive a 13 lb or so flywheel without shutter then that combination sounds promising! 4 or 6 puck...or full disk?

    What tq is the stg 1 rated at? (EDIT: I can just look this up unless you happen to know off the top of your head...thx!)


    There are 2 different ones, prolight and streetlight. I got the 14.4lb streetlight one. I don't remember what the stage1 was at, but I think it was 400chp.
    Quote Originally Posted by JSCSpeed
    While getting the "strongest" clutch might seem like a neat thing to do, you might want to consider what the clutch is connected to before making that leap. It is not a good idea to put a high stage clutch on a car that has a weak transmission, differential, or drive axles. A strong clutch that is very grabby and harsh will put a lot of shock load on these components, resulting in catastrophic failure-add on stickier tires, and your drive train is at even greater risk. For example, it would not be wise to put a heavy duty, 4-puck clutch on the 5-speed manual gear box in the Subaru WRX unless you have an upgraded gear set, otherwise you will be fishing chunks of gear teeth out of the bell housing. Remember, a slipping clutch is less labor intensive and cheaper to replace then a blown gearbox or differential!
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