super soft brake pedal
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This is a discussion on super soft brake pedal within the General Maintenance, Troubleshooting & Accidents. forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; whats up guys..i have a 2005 wrx sti so the other day i had to replace the 2 crush washers ...

  1. #1
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    super soft brake pedal

    whats up guys..i have a 2005 wrx sti

    so the other day i had to replace the 2 crush washers on my r/f caliper banjo bolt. did that and bleed it..and now i have a really soft pedal. so i assumed i didnt get all the air out..i bleed the system about 5 times by now and still have a soft pedal. when im bleeding each caliper i see no air bubbles, only a steady stream. and i am doing the correct sequence. im really lost on this one..ive never had a problem like this before with brake systems.

    i was reading around on here and i read that one guy said air could be in the abs modulator and would need to take it to the dealer. but then some other guy said that you can bleed it normal and it will work as well..

    im about to give up and take it to subaru...any help??

    -Matt

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    Im kinda new to wrx's but I am a certified mechanic for Les Schwab. What kind of subie do you have; ex. STI, Wrx. And second explain how you are going about bleeding them?

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    Admiral Ackbar the 1st mycologist's Avatar
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    This works really well:

    one man brake bleeding diy
    "From a little spark may burst a mighty flame." - Dante
    "The stitch is lost unless the thread is knotted." - Italian proverb

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    this isnt my first time bleeding brakes..and this is part why im so frustrated cause ive never had a problem like this


    it is a 2005 WRX STI

    i have my buddy pump the brakes and hold it while i crack the bleeder..and i repeat the steps in the correct sequence.

    still have a pedal that goes to the floor

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    Hmm, does sound like you have trapped air further in the system then. You can figure it out on your own still though, if you have access to four hose clamps, start by clamping the brake lines to the calipers and step on the pedal, is it high and hard? or does it still sink. Take off one clamp at a time and do the same, and see if it changes. If it still goes to the floor with all of them to the floor...your problem lies further up the system. If its hard and then sinks when you take off one of the clamps the problem lies with in the area the clamp came off of. You may also want to try doing some up and downs before you pump them. You open the valve for a few seconds and have your buddy push down on the pedal, as soon as he says hes down, close the valve and tell him to go up. Repeat procedure multiple times. After you are positive there is no air coming out then proceed to pump them. Have your buddy really stomp on the pedal a couple times, sometimes the valves in the abs mod. get stuck and stomping will free them allowing the fluid to flow. Also you can take a hammer and gently tap on your brake components to get any air bubbles free (sometimes the bubbles cling to the sides and just dont want to move with out some "motivation") If all that sounds to much or doesnt work...I recomment taking it to the shop.

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    alright well i did what you suggested and i found that the air is trapped in the right front caliper. I tried bleeding that caliper again and lightly tapping on it to try to get the trapped air out but it didnt work at all..pedal still goes to the floor.

    now that i know its that caliper what else can i try?

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    Moderator Donkey's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mastershake13 View Post
    alright well i did what you suggested and i found that the air is trapped in the right front caliper. I tried bleeding that caliper again and lightly tapping on it to try to get the trapped air out but it didnt work at all..pedal still goes to the floor.

    now that i know its that caliper what else can i try?
    Did you use Subaru's bleeding sequence?
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    yep

    right front, left rear, left front, right rear

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    Moderator Donkey's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mastershake13 View Post
    yep

    right front, left rear, left front, right rear
    I have had to manually pump the pressure back up when I do the brakes quite a bit before I get pressure back.I think part of that is due to the ABS unit.
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    i think i need to bench bleed the caliper or something..thats where the trapped air is...when i hose clamp the line going to that caliper my pedal is nice and hard

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    Admiral Ackbar the 1st mycologist's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mastershake13 View Post
    i think i need to bench bleed the caliper or something..thats where the trapped air is...when i hose clamp the line going to that caliper my pedal is nice and hard
    Get the thing pictured in the link I posted and it will work the first time. Seriously worth it if you bleed regularly.

    I don't think you bench bleed calipers - you sometimes have to do that with the master cylinder. Worst case remove the caliper but keep it attached to the line - rotate it around & shake it some while your bleeding - turn the niple up on the top for a bit. It could also be in that line where it arcs up - tap on that while bleeding too.
    "From a little spark may burst a mighty flame." - Dante
    "The stitch is lost unless the thread is knotted." - Italian proverb

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    sorry it took so long to respond, I was at work. I swear it was subie day at Schwab! ANYHOW..... okay so we have it isolated to the right front caliper. DONT!!!! take off the caliper and try shaking it or bleeding it while off... unless you want to just cause an even bigger headache. An bench bleeding is only used with mastercylinders. I think that you are actually bleeding it wrong, if it is an sti that is. My sti has two bleeder valves per caliper. one on the outside of it and one on the inside. On the right front, bleed the outside bleeder first and then the inside bleeder, once you feel no air is present, go to the left side and do the outsider bleeder first and then the inside.

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    Admiral Ackbar the 1st mycologist's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Liv4speed08 View Post
    sorry it took so long to respond, I was at work. I swear it was subie day at Schwab! ANYHOW..... okay so we have it isolated to the right front caliper. DONT!!!! take off the caliper and try shaking it or bleeding it while off... unless you want to just cause an even bigger headache. An bench bleeding is only used with mastercylinders. I think that you are actually bleeding it wrong, if it is an sti that is. My sti has two bleeder valves per caliper. one on the outside of it and one on the inside. On the right front, bleed the outside bleeder first and then the inside bleeder, once you feel no air is present, go to the left side and do the outsider bleeder first and then the inside.
    I guess that sounds reasonable as I don't have Brembos but do seem to recall something about two bleeders now that you mention it. Removing a caliper is fine though unless your being ridiculous about twisting up the line.
    "From a little spark may burst a mighty flame." - Dante
    "The stitch is lost unless the thread is knotted." - Italian proverb

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    Removing the caliper is fine yes, just not for the purpose of bleeding, unless you can lock the four pistons in place so you dont have to worry about trying to evenly squeeze all four pistons back in at once so you can put the caliper back on with out damaging the cup seals and so forth. And if there is any air in the caliper, that means there is empty space avaliable to accomodate the air....and there fore meaning if you shake it up with out it being fixed to the knuckle...you can potentially ship the air in the wrong direction or create more pockets through out. And yea the brembo's at least on the front that I noticed so far have bleeders for each bank on each caliper, kinda similarly set up like the corvettes, and I know the agony of dealing with bleeding them, done quite a few corvettes with a few head scratches during the process.

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    Admiral Ackbar the 1st mycologist's Avatar
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    I'll defer because I have never done Brembos, but if the bleeder valve is open the caliper pistons (if they would even move while bleeding) should be easy to compress. As long as the bleeder tube has no air, your set. Otherwise, just getting the bubble unstuck is what matters.

    Assuming that the OP knew where all their bleeders are, pressure applied at the MS reservoir was my preferred solution as illustrated in the link.
    "From a little spark may burst a mighty flame." - Dante
    "The stitch is lost unless the thread is knotted." - Italian proverb

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