loud knocking noise, jerking drivers side while turning at low speed - Page 2
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This is a discussion on loud knocking noise, jerking drivers side while turning at low speed within the General Maintenance, Troubleshooting & Accidents. forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; i really appreciate it man. im gonna try and crawl under the car tomorrow and get that done. gotta wait ...

  1. #16
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    i really appreciate it man. im gonna try and crawl under the car tomorrow and get that done. gotta wait till it stops raining..

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  3. #17
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    aight so i took it to subaru again today to see if they could figure out. after looking at the car and driving it for 30 minutes (wasting all my gas) they told me they could not find anything wrong with it. when i mentioned what you told me about the fluid they said it was a good idea to go ahead and do it to be safe. so thats what im doing for now. thanks again man, i'll let you all know if this fixes my problem

  4. #18
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    well thats good you got the "professional" opinion....I definately wouldnt take chances with what I believe your experiencing....

  5. #19
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    aight i changed the tranny fluid and rear diff with royal purple 75-90. guess its time to see if it still does it. there were no particles large enough to cause worry in either.

  6. #20
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    Just make sure you put the correct amt of fluid back in there....usually it takes about 3.2 qts for the trans and about .9 for the rear diff...depending on how long you let them drain of course....best of luck...

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    hi i have the the same problem i have a 2003 impreza sti and i just got the front diff changed in the gearbox and the knocking and jerking when turning is still there i was starting to think i is the drive shafts but when i had them off doing the front diff they seemed fine do you think it could be this torque bind

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    Did changing the trans and diff fluids fix this issue for anyone. getting quite annoying now...

  9. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by dludedwrx View Post
    Did changing the trans and diff fluids fix this issue for anyone. getting quite annoying now...
    This has worked for many people, however its about 50/50 sometimes it works sometimes not...It all depends how long it has been binding...Do you have an automatic or a manual? Your getting a severe shuttering throughout the vehicle when its at operating temperature and your turning?

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    Quote Originally Posted by EvoEatr View Post
    This has worked for many people, however its about 50/50 sometimes it works sometimes not...It all depends how long it has been binding...Do you have an automatic or a manual? Your getting a severe shuttering throughout the vehicle when its at operating temperature and your turning?
    5 Sp manual. When it gets up to speed and I have to take corners from a stop or at low speed it like I hear a clunk and feel a pop in the steering wheel. Faster I go more frequent the clunk and pop. Tighter the turn also increases the frequency of said clunk and pop.

  11. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by dludedwrx View Post
    5 Sp manual. When it gets up to speed and I have to take corners from a stop or at low speed it like I hear a clunk and feel a pop in the steering wheel. Faster I go more frequent the clunk and pop. Tighter the turn also increases the frequency of said clunk and pop.
    Take your car to an open parking lot or something a do a series of figure 8's and see if the noise occurs, does it feel like the car is binding?

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    Quote Originally Posted by EvoEatr View Post
    Take your car to an open parking lot or something a do a series of figure 8's and see if the noise occurs, does it feel like the car is binding?
    I will try the figure 8's, but I can say that it does feel kinda like its binding and then releasing when I turn, not sure if that is the right way to explain it.

  13. #27
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    check your cv joints

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    Hi guys, New to the forum.

    I have an Australian Delivered 02 Bugeye and have just spent the last 5hrs changing my box, clutch, flywheel and front driveshafts.

    I did a trans oil change the other week and had some big bits fall out so decided it was time for another box.

    I now have a massive clucking noise when turning, I went and did some circles both left and right at low speed and it feels like its binding really bad (I can feel it through the steering and front end and it sounds terrible)

    Im guessing from what has been suggested here that it could very well be that the viscous centre coupling is stuffed in the box that I got. All gears seem really strong just clunks really bad when turning. (and I mean really bad)

    My mate who owns a workshop and runs a Subaru WRC Car helped me change out the box etc, so its definately been installed correctly, unfortunately it did not make any noises on the initial test drive, only happened after about 15mins of driving and then got progressively worse.

    I still have my old box and the centre diff was ok (slight knocking noise but this one sounds 10000000000000x times worse) so we may have to drop the oil and put that centre on the new box. Otherwise I have 6mth warranty on the Jap import box, so the breakers might have to foot the bill.


    I would like some other peoples opinion on this before I see him on monday to diagnose.

    Cheers

    Adam

  15. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bugeyez View Post
    Hi guys, New to the forum.

    I have an Australian Delivered 02 Bugeye and have just spent the last 5hrs changing my box, clutch, flywheel and front driveshafts.

    I did a trans oil change the other week and had some big bits fall out so decided it was time for another box.

    I now have a massive clucking noise when turning, I went and did some circles both left and right at low speed and it feels like its binding really bad (I can feel it through the steering and front end and it sounds terrible)

    Im guessing from what has been suggested here that it could very well be that the viscous centre coupling is stuffed in the box that I got. All gears seem really strong just clunks really bad when turning. (and I mean really bad)

    My mate who owns a workshop and runs a Subaru WRC Car helped me change out the box etc, so its definately been installed correctly, unfortunately it did not make any noises on the initial test drive, only happened after about 15mins of driving and then got progressively worse.

    I still have my old box and the centre diff was ok (slight knocking noise but this one sounds 10000000000000x times worse) so we may have to drop the oil and put that centre on the new box. Otherwise I have 6mth warranty on the Jap import box, so the breakers might have to foot the bill.


    I would like some other peoples opinion on this before I see him on monday to diagnose.

    Cheers

    Adam

    Adam- The binding Viscous unit in the tailhousing seems like the culprit again here, Of course I'm going off of the only information I have which is what your typing haha, Good news is you dont have to drop the trans to replace it, it can be done in the vehicle, How many miles are on the used trans? Usually the center diff takes a dump due to poor vehicle upkeep such as unequal tire pressures, lack of tire rotation etc...or just from mileage/age, I had mine start to bind in my Legacy at just over 180,000 miles...

  16. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by EvoEatr View Post
    Adam- The binding Viscous unit in the tailhousing seems like the culprit again here, Of course I'm going off of the only information I have which is what your typing haha, Good news is you dont have to drop the trans to replace it, it can be done in the vehicle, How many miles are on the used trans? Usually the center diff takes a dump due to poor vehicle upkeep such as unequal tire pressures, lack of tire rotation etc...or just from mileage/age, I had mine start to bind in my Legacy at just over 180,000 miles...
    Hi mate,

    Im not sure how many K's are on the donor box as I got it from a Jap Import Wreckers - Came out of a GT Forester Turbo (Think you call them something different in the states)

    Will see what the wreckers say regarding footing the bill for a replacement coupling, we will likely just split the centre off the box and use my old one in the mean time.

    I can get a complete new unit for 850 but dont really want to outlay myself considering the box has warranty for parts and labour.

    Thanks for confirming my thoughts on it, Im sure you know the horrible crack crack crack sound im talking about when doing figure 8's and circles

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