Boost leak test instructions
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This is a discussion on Boost leak test instructions within the General Maintenance, Troubleshooting & Accidents. forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; i searched the forums and couldnt find any posts about instructions on performing a boost leak test, so i thought ...

  1. #1
    Registered User Black X Dahlia's Avatar
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    Boost leak test instructions

    i searched the forums and couldnt find any posts about instructions on performing a boost leak test, so i thought id post one showing everyone how i performed the leak test on my own car.


    Items Needed:
    2" PVC Cap
    2" Double Sided Rubber Coupling (2" on both ends)
    Valve Stem
    Air Quick Connection (Female)
    Air Regulator (It's not needed, but makes the process MUCH safer)
    Rubber Plugs
    Air Compressor
    Screw Driver
    Boost Gauge (optional but very handy)

    Here is an example of the finished product. (I put the hose for extra play in the tight area of the engine bay, i had the extra time at work.)






    I forgot to take pics while actually performing the leak test so these will have to work, haha.

    Steps:

    1.) Remove Intake Elbow, and the intake box for some extra room. (if your going to be monitoring the air pressure in your engine via boost gauge then do not unplug your mass air flow sensor when removing the intake box. And if your not going to be using a boost gauge then disconnect your battery cables FIRST, THEN remove your mass air flow sensor.)

    2.) Remove rubber line on your intake that is connected to the purge valve(your purge valve is the black circular object located directly to the left of your alternator), and plug the nipple on your intake with any type of plug (i used rubber vaccum caps).

    3.)Remove rubber line that is connected to the BACK of the purge valve...this line leads to the intake manifold. Plug the metal nipple coming off the intake manifold, and make sure your plugs are secure. If you do not remove the purge valve when performing the leak test, then it will make a buzzing sound, which could damage the seats of the valve and ruin it.

    4.) Install 2" coupling to the intake, and make sure it is secure. Instead of trying to fit clamps on my plugs and couplings, i decided to put zip ties on the end of them to make everything somewhat easier.

    5.) Hook up regulator and air compressor to the valve stem on the pvc cap, and turn air compressor on. Slowly let air in with the regulator, and get someone to watch the boost gauge to keep an eye on how much air pressure is in the engine. Be very careful not to put too much air in your engine, as you can damage components. Keep the psi a little higher than what you normally run. For instance, if your going to be running around 15psi...then pump about 17-18psi. Many ppl suggest that you do not exceed 20psi unless you run this amount of psi normally.

    Now just listen and spray soap and water on flanges, hoses, intercooler, ect...

    Here's some more pics to help out along the way.



    Caps i use for plugs



    After performing the leak test, i found a HUGE leak at the manifold where i am leaking over half the amount of boost i am suuposed to be making. Going to replace gasket and see what happens.
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  3. #2
    Registered User EvoEatr's Avatar
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    Good write up dude....... I found this a few months ago.... Just completed the DIY "find your leak" tool. - NASIOC

  4. #3
    Registered User Black X Dahlia's Avatar
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    thx
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    Registered User EvoEatr's Avatar
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    no prob man...I wish i had the time to tinker around with making a boost leak tester..people have told me before that someplaces actually sell them...

  6. #5
    Registered User Black X Dahlia's Avatar
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    you can buy one off the internet for like $50
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  7. #6
    Wrinklechops
    So did you end up finding any leaks man? I got all the stuff at Home Depot tonight and ready to tackle it tomorrow. Interesting though, I put the stock BOV back on (had a hybrid 50/50) tonight to see if that was part of my problem too, and I noticed some oil residue on the BOV hose right underneath the throttle body/intercooler hose...and so I took it off and sure enough, there's a little split in the bottom of my tb/ic hose and I think that might be the leak...but I still want to test the intake tract too.

    Where did you get the little vaccuum caps? I looked all over Home Depot for something to use and came up empty handed.

    Stupid question time: did you take all the hoses off the turbo inlet hose and then plug the openings on the hose itself, or did you leave the hoses on but just disconnect that one purge valve and cap/plug it?

  8. #7
    DUB
    DUB is offline
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    Quote Originally Posted by Black X Dahlia View Post
    ...After performing the leak test, i found a HUGE leak...
    Quote Originally Posted by lundholm08 View Post
    So did you end up finding any leaks man?...

  9. #8
    Wrinklechops
    Yea, I saw that. Stupid me. Just still don't know where to get those caps

  10. #9
    Registered User CorrPerformance's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lundholm08 View Post
    Yea, I saw that. Stupid me. Just still don't know where to get those caps
    U can get a set of those caps from AZ or Napa. Even in Harbor Freight u can get a nice set of assorted sizes. We always keep one of those assortment vacuum cap boxes by the dyno.
    Alberto I Correa, Jr.
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  11. #10
    Wrinklechops
    Quote Originally Posted by CorrPerformance View Post
    U can get a set of those caps from AZ or Napa. Even in Harbor Freight u can get a nice set of assorted sizes. We always keep one of those assortment vacuum cap boxes by the dyno.
    Thanks man, I'll pick some up at NAPA tomorrow. Anyone have any pics of the caps on and the pressure system up and running by chance? I'm sorry for the noobness, I just don't know which lines to plug exactly.

  12. #11
    Moderator Donkey's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lundholm08 View Post
    Thanks man, I'll pick some up at NAPA tomorrow. Anyone have any pics of the caps on and the pressure system up and running by chance? I'm sorry for the noobness, I just don't know which lines to plug exactly.
    It's not rocket science.Try checking the NASIOC link a couple posts up............
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  13. #12
    Wrinklechops
    Quote Originally Posted by Donkey View Post
    It's not rocket science.Try checking the NASIOC link a couple posts up............
    I did Donkey :-) I've been scouring NASIOC and the rest of the internet to see if I can see a step by step walkthrough if you will. I'm all kinds of nervous about potentially blowing my valves/heads/etc... and the inlet hose has 4 ports, not 3, so I'm wondering what to plug?

  14. #13
    Registered User Black X Dahlia's Avatar
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    i bought the caps in the local Oreily auto parts. I left the inlet coupling on the turbo, the only thing removed was the intake elbow right at the filter. Dont forget to remove the lines from your pcv valve right beside your alternator, plug both nipples that the valve ties into (one on the intake and one on the manifold.)
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  15. #14
    Registered User Black X Dahlia's Avatar
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    yea i ended up finding a huge leak at the intake manifold and am getting Corr performance to change the gaskets for me this wednesday. It was very easy and took under 20min to set everything up.
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  16. #15
    Wrinklechops
    Quote Originally Posted by Black X Dahlia View Post
    i bought the caps in the local Oreily auto parts. I left the inlet coupling on the turbo, the only thing removed was the intake elbow right at the filter. Dont forget to remove the lines from your pcv valve right beside your alternator, plug both nipples that the valve ties into (one on the intake and one on the manifold.)
    Do you happen to have any pics of the PCV valve plugged? What I mean to ask is, I know to plug the PCV valve nipple on the inlet hose, but what about the line you popped off the nipple, do you plug that as well or just leave it hanging there until you're done?

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