This is a discussion on Boost leak test instructions within the General Maintenance, Troubleshooting & Accidents. forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; Originally Posted by lundholm08 I did Donkey :-) I've been scouring NASIOC and the rest of the internet to see ...
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What a coincidence that nice boost leak tester you put together there looks identical to the DFCustoms boose leak testers on ebay that I sell.
Im not suprised, but all I ask is to give credit where its due.
I have been making boost leak testers for years. If anyone wants some boost leak testers with different options (tire valve stem, 0-30 psi gauge, 3" to go over the plastic intake pipe) send me an email at huth1913 @ hotmail . com or go on ebay.com and use key word "Boost Leak Testers"
Word from the wise, dont forget to remove your oil cap or the air pressure will build up in your valve cover and blow out your cam seals. It happens.
What is the inside diameter of those caps, i may have to order some online.
Just reading through this thread since I am about to do the test myself on my WRX, and I noticed that the OP removed and plugged the connection from the manifold to the purge value. I don't see why. The backside of the purge valve would in fact see pressure in the manifold during normal operation. Removing it from the equation would remove a possible failed/leaking purge valve from the test procedure.
And for further clarification, if you wanted to be doubly sure you weren't over-pressurizing your crankcase, you would simply remove and cap the nipple on the inlet that connects to the PCV (rear, side of inlet tube) and the nipple (lower front, side of inlet) that connects to the crankcase blowby hose, i.e. the one that spans across the TMIC.
2005 WRX WRB
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