Time for new brakes...
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This is a discussion on Time for new brakes... within the General Maintenance, Troubleshooting & Accidents. forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; Search brought me up nothing... Just want some stock pads and rotors from somewhere reputable and cheap. Suggestions?...

  1. #1
    Registered User teflon_jones's Avatar
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    Time for new brakes...

    Search brought me up nothing... Just want some stock pads and rotors from somewhere reputable and cheap. Suggestions?
    Scott
    Past Subies - '11 STI Limited stage 1+ and '04 STi stage 2+
    '13 Wrangler Rubicon - custom front bumper w/12k lb winch & off-road lights, skid plates, diff guards, etc.
    '04 Porsche 911 Turbo GT2 clone 600 HP/TQ
    '77 F-150 heavily modded for off-roading

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  3. #2
    Registered User wrx wagone's Avatar
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    I'd actually recommend Hawk HPS pads over OEM. The price is about the same, the road manners are excellent, and they bite a bit better.

    You can get OE rotors from any of the Subaru Dealers that support the site, or you can get Powerslot rotors which use Brembo blanks from JSC Speed.
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    Resident meany-rator 06wrx4me's Avatar
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    I recommend Hawk HPS highly. Also do not "turn the rotors" buy new ones.

    I currently have the Axxis Ultimates, and while they stop great, the dusting is absolutely horrid, and even with new brembo cross drilled rotors and proper break in, they make a racket.
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    Registered User teflon_jones's Avatar
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    Strangely enough, my wear indicators on my pads never made any noise until a few days ago and now one of the pads is literally entirely gone and the backing plate is rubbing against the rotor. It makes a nice harsh rubbing sound while I'm driving. I've been watching them since I knew they were low and the only thing I can figure is the last few mil of pad disintegrated as opposed to wearing on one of the pads. The others seem ok.

    I'm probably going to stick with the original rotors for now. I think the thickness is ok. Anybody know what the wear limit is? wrx_wagone, I don't like buying rotors that have been cut/drilled instead of cast with the holes/slots in them. I know that's a lot more expensive, but it's so much stronger and more durable. I don't want to get into a debate on that with anybody so please leave that off this thread. I realize lots of people run the post-casting drilled ones without issues. I really don't care and it doesn't really matter to me since I'm happy with the stock brakes. Anything that can stop you in under 120 ft from 60 mph is pretty darn good in my book, and they have good pedal feel and modulation too.
    Last edited by teflon_jones; 07-31-2008 at 06:17 AM.
    Scott
    Past Subies - '11 STI Limited stage 1+ and '04 STi stage 2+
    '13 Wrangler Rubicon - custom front bumper w/12k lb winch & off-road lights, skid plates, diff guards, etc.
    '04 Porsche 911 Turbo GT2 clone 600 HP/TQ
    '77 F-150 heavily modded for off-roading

  6. #5
    Registered User wrx wagone's Avatar
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    No arguments from me, the stock rotors are more than adequate.
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    Master Baiter EJ257's Avatar
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    OEM pads for the STi will run you almost $800

    The local parts manager was at a conference and talked to the head of ACDelco (they make OEM GM pads). He told them that they were missing out on a large market (Brembo), and they came out with pads made for them. I put them on about 500 miles ago, and I couldn't be happier - same, if not better braking than stock, and barely any dust (I've only had to clean my wheels once since I put them on). I paid $105+tax (got the local club discount).

    Capitaland Motors Subaru Glenville, New York

    If you're interested in them, give them a call/e-mail. Ask for Fred (he's the parts manager), and he'll ship them out to you.
    2005 WRX STi (Mods | Virtual Dyno)

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  8. #7
    Registered User teflon_jones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wrx wagone View Post
    No arguments from me, the stock rotors are more than adequate.
    Didn't figure there would be since you know what you're talking about. It's them other people I worry about.....

    I was reading about those slotted rotors and they directly address the durability issue on the JSC website and say that slotting doesn't harm the strength of the rotor like drilling does. I agree with them as far as their rotors go since they only cut a groove in the surface which probably affects the strength very little. I was referring to rotors that have slots cut all the way through to the center vents. Anyway I said I didn't want to get into this so I'll shut up now.
    Scott
    Past Subies - '11 STI Limited stage 1+ and '04 STi stage 2+
    '13 Wrangler Rubicon - custom front bumper w/12k lb winch & off-road lights, skid plates, diff guards, etc.
    '04 Porsche 911 Turbo GT2 clone 600 HP/TQ
    '77 F-150 heavily modded for off-roading

  9. #8
    Resident meany-rator 06wrx4me's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by teflon_jones View Post
    Didn't figure there would be since you know what you're talking about. It's them other people I worry about.....

    I was reading about those slotted rotors and they directly address the durability issue on the JSC website and say that slotting doesn't harm the strength of the rotor like drilling does. I agree with them as far as their rotors go since they only cut a groove in the surface which probably affects the strength very little. I was referring to rotors that have slots cut all the way through to the center vents. Anyway I said I didn't want to get into this so I'll shut up now.
    Regardless of your rotor preference (drilled or stock) buy new ones. You have never heard an ungodly sound as an STi with squeaky brakes. For some reason they seem 10x louder than any other car I have heard with the problem. Again I recommend the Hawk's.

    Also noteworthy for you...The service interval on brake fluid is 1 year or 30,000 miles. If you have the stock stuff in there right now, replace it!! Also a good time to add stainless lines which firm the pedal up nicely. To help in this, the "Motiv Brake Bleeder" from JSCSpeed works wonders.
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  10. #9
    Registered User teflon_jones's Avatar
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    [QUOTE=06wrx4me;2326558]I recommend Hawk HPS highly. Also do not "turn the rotors" buy new ones. /QUOTE]Well I just ordered the HPS. Hopefully the pad backing dragging against the rotor for a few hundred miles isn't going to screw it up too much.

    I never turn rotors. I consider it a total waste of time and money. New pads will conform to the grooves the the rotor after a few hundred miles. The only reason to turn a rotor is if you get a high spot, but then I'd probably just replace the rotor.
    Scott
    Past Subies - '11 STI Limited stage 1+ and '04 STi stage 2+
    '13 Wrangler Rubicon - custom front bumper w/12k lb winch & off-road lights, skid plates, diff guards, etc.
    '04 Porsche 911 Turbo GT2 clone 600 HP/TQ
    '77 F-150 heavily modded for off-roading

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    Resident meany-rator 06wrx4me's Avatar
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    [quote=teflon_jones;2326854]
    Quote Originally Posted by 06wrx4me View Post
    I recommend Hawk HPS highly. Also do not "turn the rotors" buy new ones. /QUOTE]Well I just ordered the HPS. Hopefully the pad backing dragging against the rotor for a few hundred miles isn't going to screw it up too much.

    I never turn rotors. I consider it a total waste of time and money. New pads will conform to the grooves the the rotor after a few hundred miles. The only reason to turn a rotor is if you get a high spot, but then I'd probably just replace the rotor.
    Personally I'd replace the rotors as they are a wear item also whose heat dissipation is impacted as thickness decreases.

    I have turned rotors before (mainly because I have access to a brake lathe for free) and not turned them with the same results...brakes still worked. But I have not done a quantified brake test noting the difference in stopping power, and I'm sure based on sheer contact patch size between old rotor and new pad, the turned rotors out of the box would stop shorter. I also believe the "turned rotor-new pad" setup would have less initial wear then the "old rotor-new pad" setup. However overtime I'm sure the "new pads" would wear harmoniously with the old rotors, I'm just not willing to sacrifice the stopping power, heat dissipation, and initial pad wear.

    Also if you look on most rotors, they develop a huge lip on the outside edge which makes removal of old pads and installation of new ones a chore.

    But to each his own, your car, your $$$.
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  12. #11
    Registered User teflon_jones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 06wrx4me View Post
    Personally I'd replace the rotors as they are a wear item also whose heat dissipation is impacted as thickness decreases.

    I have turned rotors before (mainly because I have access to a brake lathe for free) and not turned them with the same results...brakes still worked. But I have not done a quantified brake test noting the difference in stopping power, and I'm sure based on sheer contact patch size between old rotor and new pad, the turned rotors out of the box would stop shorter. I also believe the "turned rotor-new pad" setup would have less initial wear then the "old rotor-new pad" setup. However overtime I'm sure the "new pads" would wear harmoniously with the old rotors, I'm just not willing to sacrifice the stopping power, heat dissipation, and initial pad wear.

    Also if you look on most rotors, they develop a huge lip on the outside edge which makes removal of old pads and installation of new ones a chore.

    But to each his own, your car, your $$$.
    I don't really drive aggressively enough to care about heat dissipation. I really only care about emergency braking performance.

    My rotors don't really have a big lip on them, though I agree that usually happens.
    Scott
    Past Subies - '11 STI Limited stage 1+ and '04 STi stage 2+
    '13 Wrangler Rubicon - custom front bumper w/12k lb winch & off-road lights, skid plates, diff guards, etc.
    '04 Porsche 911 Turbo GT2 clone 600 HP/TQ
    '77 F-150 heavily modded for off-roading

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