CEL @ 50k Miles. More...

[Slide]

Hey folks. Searched a number of topics but didn't see one specific enough.

I got an oil change with mobil 1. Same stuff I've been using forever now on this car. (2006 wrx wagon)

At some point after the oil change that day the CEL and Cruise came on. I've learned that the cruise flashes to indicate it is disabled...etc

The lights came on at 50045 miles so I figured there was some maint. due at 50k. I find out there isnt.

I start it up tonight after not driving since yesterday and notice the idle just sounds wrong and the car is shaking a bit. Doesn't sound like it's stalling...just doesn't sound right. Also, the exhaust has a really high strange chemical smell. Not like rich rich gas but almost a paint thinner odor.

Needless to say I'm not driving it right now but I was wondering if anyone had even the slightest idea what it might be.

The only mod I have on the car is Cobb Catback. That's it. The car hasn't been beaten on at all.

[greenbastard]

There are plenty of people on here who know loads more than I do and can most likely help you, but since no one else has replied yet I can at least tell you the first thing they would instruct you to do, which is hook up your AP and pull your engine code. From there you can begin to narrow it down.

[WRX_Fan_0717]

Hey folks. Searched a number of topics but didn't see one specific enough.

I got an oil change with mobil 1. Same stuff I've been using forever now on this car. (2006 wrx wagon)

At some point after the oil change that day the CEL and Cruise came on. I've learned that the cruise flashes to indicate it is disabled...etc

The lights came on at 50045 miles so I figured there was some maint. due at 50k. I find out there isnt.

I start it up tonight after not driving since yesterday and notice the idle just sounds wrong and the car is shaking a bit. Doesn't sound like it's stalling...just doesn't sound right. Also, the exhaust has a really high strange chemical smell. Not like rich rich gas but almost a paint thinner odor.

Needless to say I'm not driving it right now but I was wondering if anyone had even the slightest idea what it might be.

The only mods I have on the car is Cobb Stage 1 and the Catback. That's it. The car hasn't been beaten on at all.

Dude get the code ran asap. The flashing cruise and CEL means Det.

The weird shaking could be anything from the MAF to something bad. If it says something about a cam sensor or TVG sensor prepare to get the wallet drained.

Why would you use M1. With the million reports of the spun bearings. Switch to a heartier oil.
ie. Rotella T 5w-40
You should never run a 30w in a TC car. SOA mainly list it for EPA reasoning (gas mileage). If you read closely the manual basically calls for a 40w in almost in case.

List your mods also.

[SD_GR]

Why would you use M1. With the million reports of the spun bearings.

There is not sufficient data to link any specific oil product with bearing failures.

[Rogan]

M1 hasn't been been 'proven' to cause spun bearings.
It so happens that everyone and their dog runs M1, so it's a common denominator.
My 2000 Saab 9-5 turbo has had M1 10w30 in it since 5000mi. mark. It's got 70+ on it now, and not a wince of issues.
My Merkur XR4Ti had 188k mi on it when I sold it, and 57k on it when I got it.. M1 went in it as soon as I got it.. 130k+mi on M1. Took the head off to check the cylinder walls right before I sold it, and there were still crosshatching in the cyl. walls.

I recommend reading the codes, asap, as well.

[Timdog1650]

If you have a serious odor coming out your tailpipe, there's only a few culprits:

-Oil
-Anti-Freeze
-Uncombusted gasoline
-Dead catalytic converter

Anti-freeze describes the smell I think you're getting pretty well...tell us what the CEL is and we can help.

[Donkey]

Get the code read.From the way you posted,I'm interperating that you got and oil change at a Jiffylube or something?Check and make sure they put your airbox lid back on correctly as they probably checked for a dirty filter (so they could sell you a new one).Also make sure the MAF plug is facing towards the front of the car and not back towards the cabin.I don't let those monkies touch any of my cars.

[Donkey]

M1 hasn't been been 'proven' to cause spun bearings.
It so happens that everyone and their dog runs M1, so it's a common denominator.
My 2000 Saab 9-5 turbo has had M1 10w30 in it since 5000mi. mark. It's got 70+ on it now, and not a wince of issues.

It's specificly M1's 5w30 not M1 as a whole.Seriously,Google "Mobil 5w30 thin" and see what pops up They may have change the formula by now but Mobils 5w30's was shearing to a 20 weight due to it's thicking additive breaking down fast or something,but it was a THIN 5w30.

[WRX_Fan_0717]

M1 hasn't been been 'proven' to cause spun bearings.
It so happens that everyone and their dog runs M1, so it's a common denominator.
My 2000 Saab 9-5 turbo has had M1 10w30 in it since 5000mi. mark. It's got 70+ on it now, and not a wince of issues.
My Merkur XR4Ti had 188k mi on it when I sold it, and 57k on it when I got it.. M1 went in it as soon as I got it.. 130k+mi on M1. Took the head off to check the cylinder walls right before I sold it, and there were still crosshatching in the cyl. walls.

I recommend reading the codes, asap, as well.

I never said it was "proven". But, the spun bearings i have personally seen most all had M1 in the case. M1 may be a scape goat if you will. I think its more of a helper to the issue of having weak bearings being the easiest failure point.

But, i ran 30w M1 and my Rex drank it like water. (most do) If you read my post in the entirety you would see it said "most spun bearing are due to starvation").

There is not sufficient data to link any specific oil product with bearing failures.

The oil itself does not cause failures. Its the kid who doesn't check his oil level with a "thin" oil in the case.

If you can honestly tell me with 30w M1 your car doesn't eat at least 1qt per oil change i will bite.

[WRX_Fan_0717]

It's specificly M1's 5w30 not M1 as a whole.Seriously,Google "Mobil 5w30 thin" and see what pops up They may have change the formula by now but Mobils 5w30's was shearing to a 20 weight due to it's thicking additive breaking down fast or something,but it was a THIN 5w30.

Yes, i was referring to the 30w. The 10w-40 M1 is good shyte. I run it on my wifes car (summer).

[Slide]

Hey thanks for all the quick responses =)

I listed the mods in the original post, but I'll list them again.

All I've done is Cobb Stage 1 with the AP and the Cobb catback. I've had this setup for over 2 years now with not so much as a hiccup.

I'll have to see how to get the engine code off the AP as I've used it once, and that was to flash stage 1 lol.

[WRX_Fan_0717]

Hey thanks for all the quick responses =)

I listed the mods in the original post, but I'll list them again.

All I've done is Cobb Stage 1 with the AP and the Cobb catback. I've had this setup for over 2 years now with not so much as a hiccup.

I'll have to see how to get the engine code off the AP as I've used it once, and that was to flash stage 1 lol.

sorry didn't see it

Or go to Advanced Auto they run it for free. The AP is finiky with codes anyway.

[Slide]

sorry didn't see it

Or go to Advanced Auto they run it for free. The AP is finiky with codes anyway.

Only places nearby are auto zone a few miles away or a napa...but do I really want to be driving it when there is obviously something up w/it?

And of course with it being the holiday there's nothing open.

[WRX_Fan_0717]

Only places nearby are auto zone a few miles away or a napa...but do I really want to be driving it when there is obviously something up w/it?

And of course with it being the holiday there's nothing open.

Ah yea common sense fail on my part.

Hmm yea AP it is.

[Timdog1650]

-Car is off, key in "off" position
-Plug in AP to OBDII port
-Turn ignition to "run"
-From menu, select "Check Engine-Read Codes"
-Record what number codes you get

Post here...