CEL @ 50k Miles. More... - Page 3
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This is a discussion on CEL @ 50k Miles. More... within the General Maintenance, Troubleshooting & Accidents. forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; Originally Posted by WRX_Fan_0717 It means there high speed, that with M1 5w-30 the majority of boxer engines' have a ...

  1. #31
    Registered User teflon_jones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WRX_Fan_0717 View Post
    It means there high speed, that with M1 5w-30 the majority of boxer engines' have a considerable amount of excess oil consumption with it.
    In turn, most bearing damage is caused by oil starvation.
    So put it together.

    M1 was reformulated also there Hoss.

    Also Rotella-T 5w-40, I (as well as many others) loose less than .3 quarts per 5k mile change interval. Another would be the "German Castrol". Found at most Autozones (0w-30). Been proven by many UOAs to be a good fit for the Scoobys'.

    You really need to visit BobtheOilGuy and learn or get a UOA from your precious M1.
    I bet you think RP is the best thing since sliced bread also.
    No matter what oil you're using, a boxer engine and especially a turbo boxer engine is going to burn some. You admit that the only issue with M1 is that it can burn up faster than some of the other oils out there, though this has been improved in the reformulated version. So what is the problem with today's M1 then? I'll stick with buying my 5 quart jugs of M1 from Walmart for $25 and I'll be happy to throw in a quart every 4k miles. It protects at least as well if not better than other synthetics, so again the only issue that has been identified is that it used to burn up faster than other oils. Otherwise, it is excellent oil for high performance cars.

    Anybody that doesn't check their oil regularly deserves to have their bearings/turbo/engine burn up. Don't blame the oil, that's driver/car owner error!

    I was familiar with Bob the oil guy, M1, and the oil burning characteristics of boxer engines before you ever had your license there Hoss.
    Scott
    Past Subies - '11 STI Limited stage 1+ and '04 STi stage 2+
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    '04 Porsche 911 Turbo GT2 clone 600 HP/TQ
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  3. #32
    Registered User Death To Ricers's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WRX_Fan_0717 View Post
    It means there high speed, that with M1 5w-30 the majority of boxer engines' have a considerable amount of excess oil consumption with it.
    In turn, most bearing damage is caused by oil starvation.
    So put it together.

    M1 was reformulated also there Hoss.

    Also Rotella-T 5w-40, I (as well as many others) loose less than .3 quarts per 5k mile change interval. Another would be the "German Castrol". Found at most Autozones (0w-30). Been proven by many UOAs to be a good fit for the Scoobys'.

    You really need to visit BobtheOilGuy and learn or get a UOA from your precious M1.
    I bet you think RP is the best thing since sliced bread also.
    I would be cautious about second guessing SD_GR or teflon there bud.

    SD_GR is the sites resident oil guru. There is very little he does not know about oil.
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    You could vote to fix me a sammich.

  4. #33
    Moderator Donkey's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rogan View Post
    If you break it down, it's 260$ for 20 Qts.
    13$/qt., versus what, 7$qt for M1, and what, 9-10$/qt for AMSOIL..
    I run SUBARU oil filters.
    Like Teflon said,Walmart sells the M1 (and others) in 5 qt jugs for $25 also Advanced auto has been having a great sale on M1 for over a month.Buy 5 qrts and a M1 filter for $27 (no rebate).I am a thrifty SOB and generally have no loyalty when price is concerned.I won't put crap in my car but it gets whats on sale.Also Purolator was making alot of the air and oil filters awhile back for Subaru (USA).Purolator Pure 1 is what I normally use ($5) and they still are made in the original "big" filter size.One of the best filters out there in my opinion.Especially since they uses Subarus specs for the bypass psi.
    Last edited by Donkey; 06-02-2008 at 05:35 AM.
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  5. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by teflon_jones View Post
    No matter what oil you're using, a boxer engine and especially a turbo boxer engine is going to burn some. You admit that the only issue with M1 is that it can burn up faster than some of the other oils out there, though this has been improved in the reformulated version. So what is the problem with today's M1 then? I'll stick with buying my 5 quart jugs of M1 from Walmart for $25 and I'll be happy to throw in a quart every 4k miles. It protects at least as well if not better than other synthetics, so again the only issue that has been identified is that it used to burn up faster than other oils. Otherwise, it is excellent oil for high performance cars.

    Anybody that doesn't check their oil regularly deserves to have their bearings/turbo/engine burn up. Don't blame the oil, that's driver/car owner error!

    I was familiar with Bob the oil guy, M1, and the oil burning characteristics of boxer engines before you ever had your license there Hoss.
    Dude you saying the same thing i did, in different verbiage.
    My personal main issue with M1 is oil consumption and the UOA i got from it at 2800 miles wasn't to my liking.

    I never said the oil causes bearing failure. Again, i said it can assist in it if you fail to check your oil. I whole heartily agree you should check your oil at least ever fill up as is do.

    I have to word things more precisely now.
    I personally do not like the oil consumption rate or shearing properties of M1 5w-30. I personally like a thicker oil like GC or Rotella.

    I think we are arguing over semantics and i am agreeing with you to end a pointless argument.


    Also to the OP, i never argued or even said anything to SD_GR.
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  6. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Donkey View Post
    Like Teflon said,Walmart sells the M1 (and others) in 5 qt jugs for $25 also Advanced auto has been having a great sale on M1 for over a month.Buy 5 qrts and a M1 filter for $27 (no rebate).I am a thrifty SOB and generally have no loyalty when price is concerned.I won't put crap in my car but it gets whats on sale.Also Purolator was making alot of the air and oil filters awhile back for Subaru (USA).Purolator Pure 1 is what I normally use ($5) and they still are made in the original "big" filter size.One of the best filters out there in my opinion.Especially since they uses Subarus specs for the bypass psi.

    Amazon just had a sale on them for like 5-6 dollars for a two pack and free shipping over like 25 bucks. It appears ever couple months. (as a heads up)
    I bought like 12 last time for 5.32 per pair.


    Edit: Ah you like the big size well never mind.
    WRB, Tial gated 20'gd, PPG reppin Bugeye FTW !

  7. #36
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    My two cents

    I thought I would chime in here with another perspective on this.

    I have a N/A Suby, a 2006 impreza 2.5i wagon. NO MODS, completely stock. And it still eats/burns oil like a glutton. Granted it really eats oil when I constantly shift between 4-5.5k RPM, but lately I've been driving like a granny what with gas prices going up 10 cents every night and my suby still burns oil.

    I have used M1 in the past, but for the last 3 OCI I have used that 0w30 made in Germany by Castrol. I'm 4,040 miles into a 5k OCI and I just checked my oil and its more than a quart low! Time to ride my bicycle to autozone. (I hate being broke cause then my car has to suffer too.)

    So I guess the moral of the story is for us Suby owners to check your oil level religiously.

    I wonder if Porsche has the same problem...

  8. #37
    Registered User teflon_jones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikeyphotog View Post
    I wonder if Porsche has the same problem...
    All boxer engines burn oil. Check the link in my sig to my last 300 HP car for more info on my experience with Porsches.
    Scott
    Past Subies - '11 STI Limited stage 1+ and '04 STi stage 2+
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  9. #38
    Registered User Slide's Avatar
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    Not to derail the oil debate lol...but my car is now dead.

    They gave it back last week after swapping the coilpacks on 2 and 4. New plug on 2. Said to give it a week and see if it duplicates the problem etc..

    Car is fine until yesterday. All seemed fine as I drove across town. Heading down an offramp and switch lanes and go to accelerate. Nothing. A weird shudder perhaps but no power. I thought the car was off. I get over into the right lane and downshift and hear and see that the car is indeed still running but still zero power to accelerate.

    I pull off and notice the idle is totally jacked up, and it's hitching and bucking all over the place. Just as I go to shut it off the CEL comes back on.

    So I sit for 2 hours for a tow truck in the rain and get it towed to the local dealership (since it's under warranty) I walk up to the window and there is an older guy and his wife still walking around. He glances up at me, she looks at me out the corner of her eye like " I see you but I don't see you". I call the place and can hear the phone on his desk ringing as he ignores it lol...I'm sure this place has at least heard the term "customer service" at some points but whatever.

    Car sits all day until I call at noon to ask wth is going on. I'm told they think they know what's going on and that I've got some sort of fuel system issue where he has no fuel pressure etc...Don't hear back from them the rest of the day and they are closed on weekends.

    Yay.

  10. #39
    Geriatric Ginger Mod Rogan's Avatar
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    geeez... no luck 4 u..
    Rogan o_0
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  11. #40
    Moderator Donkey's Avatar
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  12. #41
    Registered User Slide's Avatar
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    So I call the dealership this morning around 8 and the guy says "oh the wagon that wasn't running? Yeah that's done"

    They open at 7 so that pretty much says they had it done friday but didn't bother to call. They didn't call to tell what was wrong NOR did they get my permission to fix it lol...they just went ahead.

    I get in there at 10 to pick it up and the service desk guy says my paperwork is with the cashier. I figured they were going to charge me for the one sparkplug they put in last week to attempt to diagnose the coilpack thing. She hands me the bill and it's over 230 bucks....I handed her back the paper and told her this surely couldn't be mine as my car is completely under warranty. She snorts and I turn back to the service guy and ask him to check again.

    Sure enough in 5 minutes he notices that my car is indeed warrantied....and reverses the 230.00 charge....and then charges me 60 bucks for the sparkplug they put in..because since the coilpack apparently wasn't the problem the sparkplug isn't under warranty and is considered a maintenence item.

    So I've got mah soobie back and all seems well but the throttle still seems slightly unresponsive.

    Apparently some sort of seal in the gas tank in the fuel pump ruptured and the pump wasn't pumping anything. Sounds to me like the car could have easily become a fireball. My concern is that if this pump had been acting up...how long was I driving on an overly lean mixture and wth might that have done to my valves, pistons..etc.

    I reaaally don't like this dealership but there isn't another one for well over 100 miles. Bleh.

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