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This is a discussion on CEL @ 50k Miles. More... within the General Maintenance, Troubleshooting & Accidents. forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; Well I went and did the code scan on the ol AP. It's reporting P0302 which means cylinder 2 is ...

  1. #16
    Registered User Slide's Avatar
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    Well I went and did the code scan on the ol AP.

    It's reporting P0302 which means cylinder 2 is misfiring. After that it says ok/cancel. I hit ok and it lists ????? as the next thing listed.

    Wth could be causing a well cared for car to have a misfiring cylinder? I don't beat on it, It gets the maintenence it should and at 50k miles I shouldn't have any bad plugs yet...should I?

    I have a warranty that was purchased with the car, 4 year bumper to bumper. Question is, should I reflash to stock? Stage 1 is hardly something that would cause a problem.

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  3. #17
    Registered User Timdog1650's Avatar
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    Try diagnosing the misfire starting with the easy stuff. There's a couple of threads on here about doing so, I'm too lazy to retype it all right now.

  4. #18
    Registered User Slide's Avatar
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    Took it to the dealership that morning and they swapped the 2 and 4 coilpacks replaced the plug in 2. So far no return.

    The one thing I never figured out about this car is the super rough idle. It's done that from the day I drove it out of the dealership. It hitches and bucks while sitting at a light or parked in neutral as if it's trying to stall out..yet the Rpms remain steady.

  5. #19
    Registered User teflon_jones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WRX_Fan_0717 View Post
    Why would you use M1. With the million reports of the spun bearings.
    Can you please provide links to definitive proof of this?:

    Quote Originally Posted by SD_GR View Post
    There is not sufficient data to link any specific oil product with bearing failures.
    Exactly.

    Quote Originally Posted by Rogan View Post
    M1 hasn't been been 'proven' to cause spun bearings.
    It so happens that everyone and their dog runs M1, so it's a common denominator.
    Exactamundo.

    Quote Originally Posted by Donkey View Post
    It's specificly M1's 5w30 not M1 as a whole.Seriously,Google "Mobil 5w30 thin" and see what pops up
    Ok so I Googled that and the only thing that popped up was your post.

    Quote Originally Posted by WRX_Fan_0717 View Post
    I never said it was "proven". But, the spun bearings i have personally seen most all had M1 in the case. M1 may be a scape goat if you will. I think its more of a helper to the issue of having weak bearings being the easiest failure point.

    But, i ran 30w M1 and my Rex drank it like water. (most do) If you read my post in the entirety you would see it said "most spun bearing are due to starvation").

    The oil itself does not cause failures. Its the kid who doesn't check his oil level with a "thin" oil in the case.

    If you can honestly tell me with 30w M1 your car doesn't eat at least 1qt per oil change i will bite.
    First you blame M1 for all the bearing failures, then you say "The oil itself does not cause failures. Its the kid who doesn't check his oil level with a "thin" oil in the case." Not only are you contradicting yourself, but the viscosity of the oil has absolutely nothing to do with the oil level! Of course a low oil level is going to cause bearing failures. Doesn't take a genius to figure that out!

    Tell me an oil that doesn't get "eaten" in a WRX or in most turbo cars.

    Mobil 1 is one of the finest oils available on the market. Otherwise, how could Porsche make the recommended service interval for the Porsche 911 20k miles between oil changes?
    Scott
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  6. #20
    He simply abides. SD_GR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Slide View Post
    The one thing I never figured out about this car is the super rough idle. It's done that from the day I drove it out of the dealership. It hitches and bucks while sitting at a light or parked in neutral as if it's trying to stall out..yet the Rpms remain steady.
    A little rumble is normal. Go to a dealer and sit in one that's idling, see if they're the same.
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  7. #21
    Moderator Donkey's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by teflon_jones View Post

    Ok so I Googled that and the only thing that popped up was your post.
    mobil 5w30 thin - Google Search

    Works for me.

    Dyson UOA; 05 LGT w/ 63k miles on Mobil 1 5w-30.. - Subaru Legacy Forums

    I posted a Subaru related one but the 1,000's of ones NOT Subaru related show it's more than just a myth that Mobil's 5W30 had a problem at one point.Not quite sure how you couldn't find that using Google.Try Bob Is The Oil Guy
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  8. #22
    He simply abides. SD_GR's Avatar
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    The M1 5W-30 is IMO an interesting oil. At least in SL form, the 5W-30 was more viscous at operating temperature than the 10W-30 from the same maker, even though the two oils ostensibly shared base formulations and even though, well, one might (naively?) expect a 10W-30 to be more viscous (I realise the reasoning is faulty but mention it for discussion).

    I'd used 5W-30 as my initial M1 oil change when the motor was still breaking in. I noticed that the consumption was about the same as with the dealer oil (Valvoline conventional from drums). This amounted to roughly 600 ml per OCI. I didn't quite like that much, even though it didn't pose a problem -- I could drive a full OCI without topping off, just letting the level drop.

    Around that time, Mobil decided to repackage Delvac1 as Truck/SUV 5W-40. I used that a lot, got great UOA data, and after the 2nd OCI with that the car didn't use a measurable amount. That oil also stayed in grade for 5,800 miles with plenty of reserve, meaning I could (and probably should!) have gone 7,500 miles between changes just like the manual states.

    Meanwhile, the Truck/SUV was split into two lines by Mobil: 5W-40 turbodiesel SL (the same oil I'd been using) and 5W-30 petrol (SM, I believe). The retailers nearby stopped carrying the turbodiesel variant I wanted and only offered the 5W-30, so I switched to M1 0W-40. This is now the SM formulation. The car does use about 400 ml of this per OCI, and the oil does seem to thin out mid-life, but I don't care. The oil thickens back up as it ages according to UOAs I've seen, and whether I top it off or not the car won't be low on oil during the OCI anyway.

    The 5W-40 and 0W-40 are not listed in the manual -- if I were under warranty, I'd follow the manual to the letter.
    WRX Info Links, Courtesy TheJ
    Man is a brute.... If you're cruel to him, he respects and fears you. If you're kind to him, he plucks your eyes out. Alexis Zorbas
    I lied. I cheated. I bribed men to cover the crimes of other men. I am an accessory to murder. But the most damning thing of all... I think I can live with it. And if I had to do it all over again - I would. Benjamin Sisko
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  9. #23
    Moderator Donkey's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SD_GR View Post
    so I switched to M1 0W-40.
    Using the European formula as well now that it's readilly available at most Autozone/Advanced Autos.
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  10. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by teflon_jones View Post

    First you blame M1 for all the bearing failures, then you say "The oil itself does not cause failures. Its the kid who doesn't check his oil level with a "thin" oil in the case." Not only are you contradicting yourself, but the viscosity of the oil has absolutely nothing to do with the oil level! Of course a low oil level is going to cause bearing failures. Doesn't take a genius to figure that out!

    Tell me an oil that doesn't get "eaten" in a WRX or in most turbo cars.

    Mobil 1 is one of the finest oils available on the market. Otherwise, how could Porsche make the recommended service interval for the Porsche 911 20k miles between oil changes?
    It means there high speed, that with M1 5w-30 the majority of boxer engines' have a considerable amount of excess oil consumption with it.
    In turn, most bearing damage is caused by oil starvation.
    So put it together.

    M1 was reformulated also there Hoss.

    Also Rotella-T 5w-40, I (as well as many others) loose less than .3 quarts per 5k mile change interval. Another would be the "German Castrol". Found at most Autozones (0w-30). Been proven by many UOAs to be a good fit for the Scoobys'.

    You really need to visit BobtheOilGuy and learn or get a UOA from your precious M1.
    I bet you think RP is the best thing since sliced bread also.
    WRB, Tial gated 20'gd, PPG reppin Bugeye FTW !

  11. #25
    Geriatric Ginger Mod Rogan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Donkey View Post
    Using the European formula as well now that it's readilly available at most Autozone/Advanced Autos.
    I'm actually running Joe Gibbs Racing's XP3 now.



    $259 for 2x10qt jugs. Similar to 10w30. My motor is built "loose", anyway.



    (Donkey, you coming to the Autism drive in 2 wks? I'd love to see you and your car there! See signature )
    Rogan o_0
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  12. #26
    Moderator Donkey's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rogan View Post
    I'm actually running Joe Gibbs Racing's XP3 now.



    $259 for 2x10qt jugs. Similar to 10w30. My motor is built "loose", anyway.



    (Donkey, you coming to the Autism drive in 2 wks? I'd love to see you and your car there! See signature )
    Thats some $$$$ stuff! Unfortunalty I have to work both the 14th and 15th.I'm still trying to get a shift trade for the 14th at least.
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  13. #27
    Geriatric Ginger Mod Rogan's Avatar
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    If you break it down, it's 260$ for 20 Qts.
    13$/qt., versus what, 7$qt for M1, and what, 9-10$/qt for AMSOIL..
    I run SUBARU oil filters.


    (14th is the best day to make it, prolly )
    Rogan o_0
    '96 Dodge 2500 CTD @ 40psi - over 700 lb/ft TQ, 7" stack, and 5speed! - SOLD
    '01 Dodge 2500 CTD 6-holed hand-shaker - 3850# dual disk - 900 lb/ft - SOLD
    '97 Dodge 3500 CTD DUALLY built Auto - 40psi boosties - 750 lb/ft

  14. #28
    Registered User Timdog1650's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rogan View Post
    If you break it down, it's 260$ for 20 Qts.
    13$/qt., versus what, 7$qt for M1, and what, 9-10$/qt for AMSOIL..
    I run SUBARU oil filters.


    (14th is the best day to make it, prolly )
    Pretty expensive dude. I pay $8.00/quart + s&h for Redline 5w30. Throw a filter and a UOA on there and my oil changes are costing close to $70/change. If you do regular UOA's you must be up around $100 a change

  15. #29
    Geriatric Ginger Mod Rogan's Avatar
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    I've done 3 since January
    Rogan o_0
    '96 Dodge 2500 CTD @ 40psi - over 700 lb/ft TQ, 7" stack, and 5speed! - SOLD
    '01 Dodge 2500 CTD 6-holed hand-shaker - 3850# dual disk - 900 lb/ft - SOLD
    '97 Dodge 3500 CTD DUALLY built Auto - 40psi boosties - 750 lb/ft

  16. #30
    Registered User Timdog1650's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rogan View Post
    I've done 3 since January
    Part of the reason why owning a built motor/stage 4 car sucks royally.

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