P0457 Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected (gross leak)
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This is a discussion on P0457 Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected (gross leak) within the General Maintenance, Troubleshooting & Accidents. forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; guys I need help please!!!! I have no Idea what this means. I Have a Cobb Access port and had ...

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    Registered User rudyalta's Avatar
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    P0457 Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected (gross leak)

    guys I need help please!!!! I have no Idea what this means. I Have a Cobb Access port and had check engine light on 2 times already i checked the code and it said it was P0457 Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected (gross leak). I want to know if this will affect how my car runs. I am going to get my car reflashed and dyno tunned this weekend and i am wondering if it will affect the tunning what so ever. How can I fix this problem and is it expensive to fix.. Thanks and I will anxiously wait for any helpful response

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    Registered User rudyalta's Avatar
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    And its not the gas cap I already checked...

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    Registered User jeffmm06's Avatar
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    Better get it to a shop soon, to find out and clear it up as most tuners will NOT tune a car that has issues or CELs present.
    2005 WRB WRX "was" STAGE 2

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    Registered User rudyalta's Avatar
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    anyone else other comments

    Please I need your help!!!

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    Moderator timber's Avatar
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    check for loose vacuum lines. also, you say you checked your gas cap, but did you clear the code after checking it? and did the code come back?
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    He simply abides. SD_GR's Avatar
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    Agreed, check vacuum lines. Check EVAP system, including canister and the fuel filler tube itself. Consider replacing the fuel filler cap and see what happens then. Is your fuel pump stock? If not, is the gasket on the fuel pump crimped?
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    Registered User rudyalta's Avatar
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    I do not have an aftermarket fuel pump. Yes I did clear it and the check engine light came back on.. I also can smell fumes. Like Gas!

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    Moderator timber's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rudyalta View Post
    I do not have an aftermarket fuel pump. Yes I did clear it and the check engine light came back on.. I also can smell fumes. Like Gas!
    any obvious leaks under the car?
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    Check the canister. It is in the rear of the car on the passenger side. I threw a similar code and it turned out that one of the hoses was disconnected from the canister.
    '02 White WRX Wagon
    VF34, STi Pinks, Perrin IC Hoses, AP V2, Borla Catback, Perrin Up-pipe, Stromung Downpipe

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    Moderator Donkey's Avatar
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    To the right of the turbo inet pipe,behind the power steering pump,under the intake manifold there is a evap solenoid.There should be a blue vacuum coupling/connector.It comes disconnected very easily and could be your culprit.Causes a vaccum leak and crappy idle as well.
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    Registered User rudyalta's Avatar
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    I think that might be it

    Any idea how I can get a picture of it. I would greatly appreciate it

  13. #12
    Wrinklechops
    Quote Originally Posted by rudyalta View Post
    And its not the gas cap I already checked...
    How do you know it wasn't the gas cap? Just curious, cuz I'm having this same problem. I tightened the gas cap down again, but it wiggles a little bit. Always has. Does yours do the same thing?

  14. #13
    Wrinklechops
    Quote Originally Posted by Donkey View Post
    To the right of the turbo inet pipe,behind the power steering pump,under the intake manifold there is a evap solenoid.There should be a blue vacuum coupling/connector.It comes disconnected very easily and could be your culprit.Causes a vaccum leak and crappy idle as well.
    Did you mean the blue T fitting thing behind the alternator Donkey, or something different? Sorry this is so ancient...I am in search of this answer as well...

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    P0457

    I just recently purchased a 2004 WRX Wagon, I inherited a CEL light with it. The code was PO457,which means (Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected - Fuel Cap Loose / Off).


    After reading posts about the "T" fitting and Vacuum Control Solenoid located below the intake manifold, I checked these two things first and found both ok. The "T" had all hoses attached and the Vacuum Control Solenoid worked correctly when energized.

    I then focused on the Drain Valve, also called Canister Vent Valve (prt#42084FA120) .

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Drain Valve / Canister Vent Valve

    I did a resistance check on the solenoid and found the coil ok, about 26 ohms, I then energized the solenoid with 12v and it did not activate. (click)
    (if the solenoid coil where bad it would of pulled a code for the vent valve, ECM only reads open or closed electrical circuit, not actuator position).

    The Drain Valve was designed to shut off air flow when energized, which it didn't do. When the ECM does a evaporative emission test, it signals the valve to close so a vacuum can be pulled and then reads from the pressure sensor (located in the tank) a change in tank pressure, because the valve was frozen in the open position it just vented to atmosphere through the valve and prevented a vacuum being pulled in the fuel tank.

    The canister vent valve was replaced and it solved my P0457 code, the ECM passed all readiness tests and is ok for inspection.

    The part sits below the canister, it has a disk that is spring loaded in the open position, when the coil is energized a "moving core" presses against the disk to seal off flow, this is what seals the canister from atmosphere. I deduce that because it is the lowest part in the vapor train it collects moisture like a "P" trap under a sink and caused excessive oxidation of the moving parts.

    (Update 5/5/2011, after disassembling the malfunctioning vent valve, I discovered that the moving core was frozen in the open position, this was most likely due to its inherent problematic location).

    Click image for larger version. 

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    The Vent Valve is #23
    (click to enlarge)


    I cleared the code and tried driving according to forum posts to get the ECM to do a evaporative emissions readiness test, but it did not work. It does appear that if you drive for the prescribed amount of time and then turn off the engine and remove the gas cap and then replace it and then restart, it forces or triggers the ECM to do a evaporative emission readiness test.

    I wasted a half tank of gas to trying to get the ECM to do a evaporative emission test until I stumbled on removing the gas cap.

    Another lesson that I learned from this experience is when looking for used autos, bring a code scanner that can read readiness test. If someone is selling a problem and resets the CEL, this light can stay off during your test drive, but the scanner will tell you without a doubt if the vehicle is waiting for conditions that will trigger the readiness test. If readiness tests are not complete, then beware. I was lucky that it was only one $86.00 part and I did not have to drop the gas tank.
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    Last edited by gjkozy; 05-05-2011 at 09:17 AM. Reason: update and add pictures

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