replacing radiator
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This is a discussion on replacing radiator within the General Maintenance, Troubleshooting & Accidents. forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; Hello all I am in the process of changing a leaking radiator. I purchased one and it was delivered prior ...

  1. #1
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    replacing radiator

    Hello all

    I am in the process of changing a leaking radiator. I purchased one and it was delivered prior to when i started. Regretably it appears to be the wrong one.

    I am assuming that it is for the AT vehicles (I have a stick) because of the hoses at the bottom. I called and they are presently hunting

    It also had a fill hole and cap on the top. . that may have even branched off. OEM didnt have this.

    Outside of these two things it looks proper. It was about 180

    Calling around this morning I have been quoted two unavailable radiators one was ~250 and the other ~350

    The 350ish one was from a local stealership. There was a service dude in the background. they said that they changed the radiator and that the new one you have to buy 2 hoses and one pipe for. They said the hose is metal and is the overflow pipe and the hoses connect to it.

    The AT one I bought looked really close to stock and I am confused as to what is happening. Any insight would be greatly appreciated.

    I also bought non-subie coolant and someone on a posting told me to get the subie and conditioner.

    Thanks in advanced for any help.

    J

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  3. #2
    Geriatric Ginger Mod Rogan's Avatar
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    mine has a cap on top, and it's OE. (seen lower right of picture)

    Rogan o_0
    '96 Dodge 2500 CTD @ 40psi - over 700 lb/ft TQ, 7" stack, and 5speed! - SOLD
    '01 Dodge 2500 CTD 6-holed hand-shaker - 3850# dual disk - 900 lb/ft - SOLD
    '97 Dodge 3500 CTD DUALLY built Auto - 40psi boosties - 750 lb/ft

  4. #3
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    Thanks for the prompt reply

    Thanks Rick for your prompt reply.

    Your pic is hard to see if it is the same rad. .but i do see a cap in the bottom. Are you a 2k3 impreza wrx. Looked like your pic was but I could not confirm.

    Attached are pix for clarification.

    I took pictures of old and new for clarification and marked the areas of concern.

    There is also a nipple off the fill cap area of the new rad

    Thanks again for your help and if any other advice or observations are out there. . .please send them my way.

    Regards.

    J
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails new-AT fittings.JPG   New-fillcap.JPG   newrad.JPG   oldrad-entire.JPG   oldrad-top.JPG  


  5. #4
    Geriatric Ginger Mod Rogan's Avatar
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    i think that radiator will be fine.

    The trans coolant connections on the bottom are irrelevant.

    Mine is 2002 model year.. Lemme see if I can find you a better picture..
    Rogan o_0
    '96 Dodge 2500 CTD @ 40psi - over 700 lb/ft TQ, 7" stack, and 5speed! - SOLD
    '01 Dodge 2500 CTD 6-holed hand-shaker - 3850# dual disk - 900 lb/ft - SOLD
    '97 Dodge 3500 CTD DUALLY built Auto - 40psi boosties - 750 lb/ft

  6. #5
    Geriatric Ginger Mod Rogan's Avatar
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    "A" = Overflow reservoir (mine is relocated. yours should be on drivers side of radiator.)
    "B" = Coolant Tank on Intake
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails radiator_top2.jpg  
    Rogan o_0
    '96 Dodge 2500 CTD @ 40psi - over 700 lb/ft TQ, 7" stack, and 5speed! - SOLD
    '01 Dodge 2500 CTD 6-holed hand-shaker - 3850# dual disk - 900 lb/ft - SOLD
    '97 Dodge 3500 CTD DUALLY built Auto - 40psi boosties - 750 lb/ft

  7. #6
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    Thanks

    Thanks again.

    I managed to acquire a proper replacement and it is in now!!. I tried to flush the radiator and it is still dripping. Its on ramps.

    I don't have the T splitting my B into my A so I don't think that would have worked. Maybe I could have plugged it or tied it into my resoviour line. . .but it would have been hacked at best.

    When I tried to go to another replacement place that said they had one for me . . .it was all aluminum and had a fill pipe on top too. . .weird

    I think i will let it sit over night. I also noticed some water drops in the air intake

    I hope I didnt screw something else up and I figure it could also use an evening of drying.

    I noted my battery terminal is cracked. . so that and my brakes (which I was hoping to do this weekend . . .and may still try) are next on my hit list.

    Thanks for the pictures.

    J

  8. #7
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    grrrrr

    QUESTION (detials below):
    When do either of the fans on the radiator kick on when a car is in idle.

    Details of this journey:
    So I got it back together flushed and started

    Heat on full and some super burping action

    I let it run for about 15 >> the temp maintained in what I would say is normal range.

    I did not note the fans kicking on but have no light on the dash indicating a problem. I didnt know how long that would take with fresh coolant while idleing on ramps.

    I let it rock . . .going in and out and checking the temp and checking for leaks.

    After about 30 min it started leaking. The optimist that I am I had already put the underguard back on and took it off.

    when reaching into the top of the car. THe black nipple comming off the left corner of the radiator had a minor ammount of moisture on this. I half expected that as it seemed to have formed to the old radiator and not fit really tight. I figure I will cut a .25 iinch or so off it and fix that.

    Under the radiator was a different story. It looked as if the leak was coming from the center of the radiator.

    I checked all the other connections for moisture by running my gloved finers arround the fittings and seeing if there was any wetness. Nothing. I am going to fix the little leak and see if that is it but I fear bad radiator.

    Questions comments or observations are always welcome (and potentially needed)

  9. #8
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    Closed it out

    Hey all.

    Searching for something else and saw this posting.

    Got a radiator from the stealership. I am still dropping fluid but think it is because of poor burping and do not note any leaks.

    I am really posting this because I noted that the replacement I got from the auto parts store was about half as thick as the Subie one.

    Additionally, SUbie upgraded these radiators to the STI one which caused me to buy extra parts which would have made the original Radiator i got work with my car.

    All parts from subie were about 500 bucks>>> OUCH

    Thanks for your help!

  10. #9
    Registered User tomwrx02's Avatar
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    yo

    I got a crack in my radiator i bout a new one and its got the cap on the top like yours. my stock one douse not have one...what do i have to do to git it to work? 02 wrx wagon stage 2AP

  11. #10
    Geriatric Ginger Mod Rogan's Avatar
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    bolt it in, hook it up, fill with coolant.
    Rogan o_0
    '96 Dodge 2500 CTD @ 40psi - over 700 lb/ft TQ, 7" stack, and 5speed! - SOLD
    '01 Dodge 2500 CTD 6-holed hand-shaker - 3850# dual disk - 900 lb/ft - SOLD
    '97 Dodge 3500 CTD DUALLY built Auto - 40psi boosties - 750 lb/ft

  12. #11
    Registered User tomwrx02's Avatar
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    morning

    how do i flush my new radiator?

  13. #12
    Geriatric Ginger Mod Rogan's Avatar
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    flush? why?

    Or do you mean the engine/etc.? the 'new rad' shouldn't need flushed out..
    Rogan o_0
    '96 Dodge 2500 CTD @ 40psi - over 700 lb/ft TQ, 7" stack, and 5speed! - SOLD
    '01 Dodge 2500 CTD 6-holed hand-shaker - 3850# dual disk - 900 lb/ft - SOLD
    '97 Dodge 3500 CTD DUALLY built Auto - 40psi boosties - 750 lb/ft

  14. #13
    Registered User tomwrx02's Avatar
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    Smile

    i got it..i didnt know how to burp a guy at my local shop told me what to do.. thanks anyway

  15. #14
    Geriatric Ginger Mod Rogan's Avatar
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    ahh.

    With a subaru, and it's goofy 'remote' reservoir, this is the best tool you'll ever buy, when it comes to coolant replenishing, etc...

    MOE'S TOOLS & SUPPLY WAREHOUSE
    Rogan o_0
    '96 Dodge 2500 CTD @ 40psi - over 700 lb/ft TQ, 7" stack, and 5speed! - SOLD
    '01 Dodge 2500 CTD 6-holed hand-shaker - 3850# dual disk - 900 lb/ft - SOLD
    '97 Dodge 3500 CTD DUALLY built Auto - 40psi boosties - 750 lb/ft

  16. #15
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    sorry for the delay

    Sorry for the delay

    In short for others who are asked to get the replacement I would get the conversion parts from Steallership and get a performance radiator from a third party. THe conversion parts should permit you to connect to the new setup.

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