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This is a discussion on total loss of power at high rpm within the General Maintenance, Troubleshooting & Accidents. forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; Originally Posted by RLR257 if i do get an AP though, i would have to reflash back to stock in ...

  1. #16
    Master Baiter EJ257's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RLR257
    if i do get an AP though, i would have to reflash back to stock in order to get an OS right?
    To sell your AP, you'll have to flash your stock map back on (this will "unmarry" the AP), and since it would be kinda to keep your AP if you've gone open-source, the answer is yes.

    Quote Originally Posted by RLR257
    or what's better, getting an OS pro tune or an AP pro tune?
    They're both reflash mediums, so will give similar results. The choice should be based on which one your tuner is more comfortable using.
    Last edited by EJ257; 01-25-2011 at 10:49 AM.
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  3. #17
    Registered User RLR257's Avatar
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    yea i would rather go the OS route and get a protune but the shop closest to me stopped doing OS and now only uses AP or EcuTek. So i guess i need to find another shop or buy the AP. if i get the AP, im going to need a protune anyway cuz the car didnt come with the stock bpv or intake so i can't use the off-the-shelf maps. so i guess i need to just find a place that does OS so i don't have to buy the AP.

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    Would Never, Ever Say Something Bad About an Admin's Mom SonicWagon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by loosecheez View Post
    OK, let's not get offtrack here...me, me! What is this smoke test and will it help the poor OP? BTW, I don't have a boost gauge so I don't know what I'm running...
    use the accessport to read the boost do a 3rd gear WOT run and tell us what the highest number displayed is.
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    Quote Originally Posted by loosecheez View Post
    When I push the car (around 5k rpm) I am experiencing a total loss of power. The first time it happened I thought just hit the rpm limiter and the car continued to run with no power for a minute or so. The second time it happened the engine totally died.
    Let me start by saying I'm new to Subarus, but not new to boosted engines in other cars. Your misfiring at high rpm symptom sounds like the spark plug gap is too wide, or your ignition is weak. Also, do you have a gauge to check fuel pressure?

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    Quote Originally Posted by SonicWagon View Post
    use the accessport to read the boost do a 3rd gear WOT run and tell us what the highest number displayed is.
    Forgive the ignorance and please explain WOT... I know the AP does realtime readings on the engine parameters, i.e., rpm, boost?, but I have never successfully gotten it to do it. My brilliance allows me to assume a "3rd gear run" to be pushing the car hard through 3 gears?? BTW, I went to a local SCCA event today to watch...on the way out there was a sweet 60's era AC Cobra that pulled out of the parking lot in front of me. We messed around a little (well, I did...he may have not even noticed me) on the way out of town and the car ran strong...??? I did an oil change today and replugged the transmission dipstick (the dipstick next to the dp?) back in??
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scoob E Roo View Post
    Let me start by saying I'm new to Subarus, but not new to boosted engines in other cars. Your misfiring at high rpm symptom sounds like the spark plug gap is too wide, or your ignition is weak. Also, do you have a gauge to check fuel pressure?
    OK, now we're talkin'...I had the plugs changed by a mechanic around here who seems cool but doesn't really specialize in subarus...I'm not really sure that would be it cuz the car ran fine immediately thereafter. I hesitate to mention lest you guys castigate me but he did mention that one of the bolts at the turbo/dp side was screwed up... He assured me that it wouldn't effect the car so I made the call to run with three bolts in an effort to save money...

    I have no gauges in the car...
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  8. #22
    Would Never, Ever Say Something Bad About an Admin's Mom SonicWagon's Avatar
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    WOT=Wide Open Throttle= pedal 2 the floor,

    plug the AP in and go to live data, then go down one to PSI that is the turbo gauge.

    You dont need to go fast thru 1st and 2nd start out at around 35 mph in 3rd gear and floor it, make sure you do this where you have space to speed up, watch the accesport or have a passenger watch it and tell us what the highest number displayed on it was.
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    Quote Originally Posted by SonicWagon View Post
    WOT=Wide Open Throttle= pedal 2 the floor,

    plug the AP in and go to live data, then go down one to PSI that is the turbo gauge.

    You dont need to go fast thru 1st and 2nd start out at around 35 mph in 3rd gear and floor it, make sure you do this where you have space to speed up, watch the accesport or have a passenger watch it and tell us what the highest number displayed on it was.
    WILCO...
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  10. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by SonicWagon View Post
    use the accessport to read the boost do a 3rd gear WOT run and tell us what the highest number displayed is.
    14.5 and the car stuttered when I floored it...and the screen said "boost" not "PSI".
    Last edited by loosecheez; 04-29-2008 at 10:10 AM.
    2003 WRX wagon in silver
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  11. #25
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    ok so i figured out what the problem was. i went to the mechanic and he told me it was the rear o2 sensor but told me the code was P1153 which is for the front. i bought a brand new o2 sensor from the dealer. my CEL is gone and boost is BACK!! if you ever get code P1153 and wonder why your boost is messed, it's that o2 sensor and ecu shutting you down, atleast that's what it is on the 06 and probably 07.... ridiculous.

  12. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by loosecheez View Post
    14.5 and the car stuttered when I floored it...and the screen said "boost" not "PSI".
    Have you found a solution to the problem yet?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Scoob E Roo View Post
    Have you found a solution to the problem yet?
    Nope, I guess people have moved on to bigger and worse problems...I PM'd one of the guys who seemed to be diagnosing the problem but I haven't heard back from them. I have tried a couple of easy fix things...I threw in some techron on the last fillup and bought a new fuel filter that I have yet to put in. I may buy a set of colder spark plugs and make sure that they are gapped correctly ? It's really odd...somedays the car acts funny and others it is fine... I haven't had it stall like it did before. If these don't work I may take the car to my mech and see about a vacuum leak? Are u having similar issues or have any advice for me?
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  14. #28
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    Forgive me for jumping into the thread without really reading into it. If you have the stock uppipe as your EGTs rise higher and higher your computer will pull your timing so you won't overheat your precat and toss it into your turbo.
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  15. #29
    Registered User RLR257's Avatar
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    have u tried checking the bolts on ur headers and uppipe? two of mine were leaking condensation and the guy at the tuner shop told me i probably have a bad gasket and an exhaust leak. the exhaust from the block was pushing the condensation out at the gaskets. as a result i had loss of power too. i dont know what the factory torque specs for those bolts are though.

  16. #30
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    Around 40 ft./lbs. for uppipe to manifold and downpipe to CBE. Around 30 ft./lbs. for manifold to head, and everything else. Torque evenly too. You would definitely lose power with an exhaust leak, pre-turbo. That's what spins the turbo. Manifold to uppipe gasket is a common leak point.
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