Brake Fluid Change Procedure
+ Reply to Thread
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 18

This is a discussion on Brake Fluid Change Procedure within the General Maintenance, Troubleshooting & Accidents. forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; I have a few questions about changing brake fluid. Now, I have ATE SuperBlue sitting here waiting to be put ...

  1. #1
    Registered User Glick's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Mount Joy, PA
    Posts
    22

    Brake Fluid Change Procedure

    I have a few questions about changing brake fluid. Now, I have ATE SuperBlue sitting here waiting to be put into my car, along with some new stainless steel lines. Now, first question, will SuperBlue harm my system at all? I've never used it with a car that had ABS, so I'm asking to be sure. Also, what is the procedure of changing the fluid? Is it best to keep bleeding the far passenger side wheel first and then just wait until I see blue fluid? Also, do they bleed in the normal order? Back right, back left, front right, front left?

  2. Remove Advertisements
    ClubWRX.net
    Advertisements
     

  3. #2
    Registered User Pavia's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Philly/DE area
    Posts
    2,934
    I'd be interested to hear myself, as I'm getting ready to do a brake upgrade soon.

    I'll add an addendum question: Is it reasonable to do lines, pads, rotors, and bleed/flush in one day if you are a first-timer?
    06 GTO M6 Quicksilver, SLP 455 Bobcat, LS7 Clutch w/ SS line (RPM tune:373rwhp/373rwtq)
    07 WRX TR M5 Garnet Red Pearl w/ Straight PPGs and Cusco front LSD (Agile tune:307whp/343wtq)

  4. #3
    Registered User rtstone's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    New Jersey
    Posts
    75
    just did mine yesterday and i am not sure if it is true for all years but my 06 manual says to do it in this order:

    CAUTION:
    Brake fluid replacement sequence; (A) Front
    right → (B) Rear left → (C) Front left → (D) Rear
    right

    I have heard of a lot of people running the ATE fluid without any problems.

    should be fine

    I would suggest sucking as much of the old fluid out of the master cylinder before you start so you aren't pushing the dirty old fluid through the entire system.

    then as you said bleed in the order above until you see the new fluid and of course no air bubbles.

    Good Luck!

    edit: to answer the additional question, you should be able to as long as you have all the parts on hand, just be ready to spend some extra time getting the rear rotors off..... they like to give you some trouble sometimes.
    Last edited by rtstone; 03-30-2008 at 07:55 AM.
    2006 WRB WRX Wagon

  5. #4
    Registered User Glick's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Mount Joy, PA
    Posts
    22
    Quote Originally Posted by rtstone View Post
    just did mine yesterday and i am not sure if it is true for all years but my 06 manual says to do it in this order:

    CAUTION:
    Brake fluid replacement sequence; (A) Front
    right → (B) Rear left → (C) Front left → (D) Rear
    right

    I have heard of a lot of people running the ATE fluid without any problems.

    should be fine

    I would suggest sucking as much of the old fluid out of the master cylinder before you start so you aren't pushing the dirty old fluid through the entire system.

    then as you said bleed in the order above until you see the new fluid and of course no air bubbles.

    Good Luck!

    edit: to answer the additional question, you should be able to as long as you have all the parts on hand, just be ready to spend some extra time getting the rear rotors off..... they like to give you some trouble sometimes.
    Why do the rear rotors have to come off? I actually just replaced all the rotors and pads last night, and skipped the fluid and lines because I wasn't sure of the order or methods. Please tell me I don't have to go through that all again?

  6. #5
    Registered User tarbaj's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Livonia, MI
    Posts
    505
    Quote Originally Posted by rtstone View Post
    just did mine yesterday and i am not sure if it is true for all years but my 06 manual says to do it in this order:

    CAUTION:
    Brake fluid replacement sequence; (A) Front
    right → (B) Rear left → (C) Front left → (D) Rear
    right

    I have heard of a lot of people running the ATE fluid without any problems.

    should be fine

    I would suggest sucking as much of the old fluid out of the master cylinder before you start so you aren't pushing the dirty old fluid through the entire system.

    then as you said bleed in the order above until you see the new fluid and of course no air bubbles.

    Good Luck!

    edit: to answer the additional question, you should be able to as long as you have all the parts on hand, just be ready to spend some extra time getting the rear rotors off..... they like to give you some trouble sometimes.

    I also bled my 03 yesterday. The bleed order is the same for 03 as your 06 so I'd bet it is the same for all WRX 02-07.

    I actually was replacing Superblue with ATE 200 Gold. This stuff is Superblue without the blue coloring. The first 2 wheels take the longest. You are getting all the fluid out if the ABS and proportioning valve.

    I had no trouble with the Superblue, used it for about 40K miles. It is great fluid and way cheaper than Motul for nearly the same performance. You can't beat the 2 colors for easy system bleeding.
    Quote Originally Posted by Trainrex
    It must be on the Subway diet. Did you name it Jared?

  7. #6
    Registered User Pavia's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Philly/DE area
    Posts
    2,934
    Quote Originally Posted by Glick View Post
    Why do the rear rotors have to come off? I actually just replaced all the rotors and pads last night, and skipped the fluid and lines because I wasn't sure of the order or methods. Please tell me I don't have to go through that all again?
    No, he was referring to my add-on question. I'm going to do the same work as you, but I'm also replacing all four rotors with some upgrades.

    Thanks guys for the help and to the OP for asking the question in the first place!
    06 GTO M6 Quicksilver, SLP 455 Bobcat, LS7 Clutch w/ SS line (RPM tune:373rwhp/373rwtq)
    07 WRX TR M5 Garnet Red Pearl w/ Straight PPGs and Cusco front LSD (Agile tune:307whp/343wtq)

  8. #7
    Resident meany-rator 06wrx4me's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Nor Cal
    Posts
    11,447
    I Support ClubWRX
    Ok the absolute best way to change the brake fluid is with the motiv brake bleeder.

    http://www.clubwrx.net/reviews/showp...oduct/27/cat/5

    Very easy to use. I just changed lines and fluid and front pads and rotors. Attach a hose (supplied with motiv) to a brake bleeder and bleed into a glass jar or anything clear. Since the old fluid has absorbed water from the atmosphere (hydroscopic) it won't mix with the new fluid, so even if you aren't using "blue" fluid you can tell when the new stuff comes through. I bled: pass rear>drivers rear>pass front>drivers front. I bled 2x to make sure I got everything out.
    2014 Ford Fiesta ST

    06 WRX, HAWKEYE # 001 <T-boned and sold>

    COILOVER TABLE
    TURBO TABLE

  9. #8
    Registered User Pavia's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Philly/DE area
    Posts
    2,934
    I have that bleeder waiting to use. No need to pump the brakes using that tool? Also, I assume you have to have the car up on jacks on both ends with all four wheels off to bleed the brakes, too?
    06 GTO M6 Quicksilver, SLP 455 Bobcat, LS7 Clutch w/ SS line (RPM tune:373rwhp/373rwtq)
    07 WRX TR M5 Garnet Red Pearl w/ Straight PPGs and Cusco front LSD (Agile tune:307whp/343wtq)

  10. #9
    Resident meany-rator 06wrx4me's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Nor Cal
    Posts
    11,447
    I Support ClubWRX
    Quote Originally Posted by Pavia View Post
    I have that bleeder waiting to use. No need to pump the brakes using that tool? Also, I assume you have to have the car up on jacks on both ends with all four wheels off to bleed the brakes, too?
    Yup all 4 must be off the ground, no need to have someone pump.
    2014 Ford Fiesta ST

    06 WRX, HAWKEYE # 001 <T-boned and sold>

    COILOVER TABLE
    TURBO TABLE

  11. #10
    Registered User rtstone's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    New Jersey
    Posts
    75
    Quote Originally Posted by 06wrx4me View Post
    Ok the absolute best way to change the brake fluid is with the motiv brake bleeder.

    http://www.clubwrx.net/reviews/showp...oduct/27/cat/5

    Very easy to use. I just changed lines and fluid and front pads and rotors. Attach a hose (supplied with motiv) to a brake bleeder and bleed into a glass jar or anything clear. Since the old fluid has absorbed water from the atmosphere (hydroscopic) it won't mix with the new fluid, so even if you aren't using "blue" fluid you can tell when the new stuff comes through. I bled: pass rear>drivers rear>pass front>drivers front. I bled 2x to make sure I got everything out.
    Agreed that is what I used as well. I had just changed fluid last year so mine was not that dirty, I just flushed into an empty brake fluid bottle through a clear hose, and made sure I put about a bottle and a half through the system. Probably more than I needed to, but like I said it was hard to tell when the new fluid started.

    I tried to get my rear rotors off to inspect and scuff them for the new pads and I tried both methods in the shop manual (adjusting the parking brake shoes and using the 8mm bolts to pull the rotor off) and no dice, it actually started to mushroom the tips of the bolts so I just scuffed them on the car which was a pain in the @$$.
    2006 WRB WRX Wagon

  12. #11
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Posts
    4
    Sorry to resurrect this thread, just had a question about using the Power Bleeder. Would it be stupid to first pressurize the system with nothing in the powerbleeder tank and bleed out all the old fluid (basically putting air in all the lines). Then put fluid in the power bleeder and repeat, so that you know you got all the old fluid out?

    Know what I mean? Not sure, I have never heard of anyone doing it that way.

  13. #12
    Registered User Pavia's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Philly/DE area
    Posts
    2,934
    Quote Originally Posted by birdo View Post
    Sorry to resurrect this thread, just had a question about using the Power Bleeder. Would it be stupid to first pressurize the system with nothing in the powerbleeder tank and bleed out all the old fluid (basically putting air in all the lines). Then put fluid in the power bleeder and repeat, so that you know you got all the old fluid out?

    Know what I mean? Not sure, I have never heard of anyone doing it that way.
    I think all the old fluid will be pushed out by the new fluid via gravity.
    06 GTO M6 Quicksilver, SLP 455 Bobcat, LS7 Clutch w/ SS line (RPM tune:373rwhp/373rwtq)
    07 WRX TR M5 Garnet Red Pearl w/ Straight PPGs and Cusco front LSD (Agile tune:307whp/343wtq)

  14. #13
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Posts
    4
    Yup, got that, just concerned about knowing when the old fluid stops and the new fluid starts, it's pretty hard to tell the difference in my opinion.

  15. #14
    Registered User Pavia's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Philly/DE area
    Posts
    2,934
    Quote Originally Posted by birdo View Post
    Yup, got that, just concerned about knowing when the old fluid stops and the new fluid starts, it's pretty hard to tell the difference in my opinion.
    Use a different color fluid.
    06 GTO M6 Quicksilver, SLP 455 Bobcat, LS7 Clutch w/ SS line (RPM tune:373rwhp/373rwtq)
    07 WRX TR M5 Garnet Red Pearl w/ Straight PPGs and Cusco front LSD (Agile tune:307whp/343wtq)

  16. #15
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Posts
    4
    Good idea, already grabbed Motul though, same color as stock.

    So back to my original question, is it ok to completely bleed the lines down to nothing but air, then put fluid back in (using a powerbleeder)?

+ Reply to Thread
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Quick Reply Quick Reply

Register Now

Please enter the name by which you would like to log-in and be known on this site.
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.

Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Please enter a valid email address for yourself. We strongly suggest that you stay away from using aol, yahoo, msn, and hotmail accounts. Sometimes the mail server blocks the emails from our server. As a result you will not receive any notifications including the confirmation email.

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.


Posting Permissions

  • You may post new threads
  • You may post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •