>>Tranny Fluid Info and Experimenting Thread<< (Amsoil, Redline, USC, etc.) - Page 18
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This is a discussion on >>Tranny Fluid Info and Experimenting Thread<< (Amsoil, Redline, USC, etc.) within the General Maintenance, Troubleshooting & Accidents. forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; Originally Posted by Donkey Unless your manual transmission has a filter in it of course those numbers are going to ...

  1. #256
    Registered User Pavia's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Donkey View Post
    Unless your manual transmission has a filter in it of course those numbers are going to be high. Unlike your engine or an automatic transmission there is no filter on a manual transmission. I would be looking more a shear weight. Also all these people make up these tranny concoctions seem to forget the two differentials in the transmission as well. Thats why you have to use a GL-5 rated gear oil. Just because USC makes your tranny "feel" better doesn't mean over the long run it could cause premature wear and damage to the differentials.
    The one thing with the Shockproof is you need to change it out more often. You shouldn't go over 15K miles if you have this in your tranny. But then again fluids are relatively cheap and it's plain easy to change the fluid (easier than an engine oil change), so it's not really an issue

    My GTO has a T-56 manual tranny. The listed/required fluid for this is actually ATF fluid. But then, there is no diff in there...
    06 GTO M6 Quicksilver, SLP 455 Bobcat, LS7 Clutch w/ SS line (RPM tune:373rwhp/373rwtq)
    07 WRX TR M5 Garnet Red Pearl w/ Straight PPGs and Cusco front LSD (Agile tune:307whp/343wtq)

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  3. #257
    Wrinklechops
    Quote Originally Posted by Donkey View Post
    Unless your manual transmission has a filter in it of course those numbers are going to be high. Unlike your engine or an automatic transmission there is no filter on a manual transmission. I would be looking more a shear weight. Also all these people make up these tranny concoctions seem to forget the two differentials in the transmission as well. Thats why you have to use a GL-5 rated gear oil. Just because USC makes your tranny "feel" better doesn't mean over the long run it could cause premature wear and damage to the differentials.
    What tranny fluid do you like Donkey? What do you use? Extra S?

  4. #258
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    Quote Originally Posted by sdh7711 View Post
    Not to mention if he's having a grind in 5th, that is usually a mechanical problem/failure of some sort. I would seriously bring that into the dealer and if it's under warranty have them fix that before goign a fluid mixture route.
    sadly the transmission warranty was voided by the previous owner Im just looking for some solutions to make things a little bit smoother until I finaly go through with the STI 6MT swap

  5. #259
    Registered User Pavia's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mehdik View Post
    sadly the transmission warranty was voided by the previous owner Im just looking for some solutions to make things a little bit smoother until I finaly go through with the STI 6MT swap
    Was this told to you when you bought the car?
    06 GTO M6 Quicksilver, SLP 455 Bobcat, LS7 Clutch w/ SS line (RPM tune:373rwhp/373rwtq)
    07 WRX TR M5 Garnet Red Pearl w/ Straight PPGs and Cusco front LSD (Agile tune:307whp/343wtq)

  6. #260
    Wrinklechops
    Quote Originally Posted by Mehdik View Post
    sadly the transmission warranty was voided by the previous owner Im just looking for some solutions to make things a little bit smoother until I finaly go through with the STI 6MT swap
    Well, why not one of the many c0cktails we have discussed in this thread? I'm currently on Uncle Scotty's C0cktail (via Grimmspeed) and it fixed my 3-4 gear grind. Something to consider...

  7. #261
    Moderator Donkey's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wrinklechops View Post
    What tranny fluid do you like Donkey? What do you use? Extra S?
    I have used both the Royal Purple Max Gear 75W-90 and Valvoline Synpower 75W-90 with good results(currently using the Valvoline). Not saying others are not just as good. Any good GL-5 rated synthetic should be fine. I just suggest changing the transmission and rear differential fluid every 30K. I know the first time I change the tranny oil on my car when I first got it I found gear teeth in it!Oh well,90K miles later it still works.
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  8. #262
    Registered User Pavia's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Donkey View Post
    I know the first time I change the tranny oil on my car when I first got it I found gear teeth in it!Oh well,90K miles later it still works.
    That's messed up dude!

    Laughing with you, not at you... I can imagine the look on your face when you pulled the drain plug.
    06 GTO M6 Quicksilver, SLP 455 Bobcat, LS7 Clutch w/ SS line (RPM tune:373rwhp/373rwtq)
    07 WRX TR M5 Garnet Red Pearl w/ Straight PPGs and Cusco front LSD (Agile tune:307whp/343wtq)

  9. #263
    Moderator Donkey's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pavia View Post
    That's messed up dude!

    Laughing with you, not at you... I can imagine the look on your face when you pulled the drain plug.
    Haha,yeah I bought the car used so I was expecting something at some point.
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  10. #264
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    today i installed kartboy front and rear bushings, and changed the tranny oil/rear diff oil...

    boy does she shift like butter now! still not like my old hondas but so much better than stock.

    used the redline lightweight + amsol heavy in the tranny, and redline lightweight in the rear diff.

    cant wait for some miles to be put on her and see if it gets even smoother.

    Thanks for all the info in this post, made me love my wrx that much more.

  11. #265
    Wrinklechops
    Quote Originally Posted by Mekks View Post
    today i installed kartboy front and rear bushings, and changed the tranny oil/rear diff oil...

    boy does she shift like butter now! still not like my old hondas but so much better than stock.

    used the redline lightweight + amsol heavy in the tranny, and redline lightweight in the rear diff.

    cant wait for some miles to be put on her and see if it gets even smoother.

    Thanks for all the info in this post, made me love my wrx that much more.
    Right on man, I'm glad I convinced you to get those bushings. What made you go with the Kartboys over the Cobb though?

  12. #266
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wrinklechops View Post
    Right on man, I'm glad I convinced you to get those bushings. What made you go with the Kartboys over the Cobb though?
    Flatirons was out of cobbs, so they emailed me and asked if kartboys where ok. not really sure if there is a diff other than color... either way im happy. it does not feel like im mixing pancake batter anymore while i shift!

    now if i could find a shop local that would install my upipe/downpipe/catback and not cry about it being a turbo car, or removing cats. (would do it myself but the only garage i have to use is my girls moms.. has like 0 room to move in there and is about a hr away.)

  13. #267
    Wrinklechops
    Quote Originally Posted by Mekks View Post
    Flatirons was out of cobbs, so they emailed me and asked if kartboys where ok. not really sure if there is a diff other than color... either way im happy. it does not feel like im mixing pancake batter anymore while i shift!

    now if i could find a shop local that would install my upipe/downpipe/catback and not cry about it being a turbo car, or removing cats. (would do it myself but the only garage i have to use is my girls moms.. has like 0 room to move in there and is about a hr away.)
    Right on.

    As for the uppipe, that would probably be the only PITA part of the install. I've done all three of those exhaust parts and by far the uppipe is more difficult than the downpipe or catback for sure, but it's really not too bad. If you study the instructions really well and have all the tools ready, etc, you could probably knock out that whole job in a few hours. Especially if you have some help. Find an old blanket, drive up on it outside, then jack the car up and get to work

  14. #268
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wrinklechops View Post
    Right on.

    As for the uppipe, that would probably be the only PITA part of the install. I've done all three of those exhaust parts and by far the uppipe is more difficult than the downpipe or catback for sure, but it's really not too bad. If you study the instructions really well and have all the tools ready, etc, you could probably knock out that whole job in a few hours. Especially if you have some help. Find an old blanket, drive up on it outside, then jack the car up and get to work

    sounds easy and i know i could do it... but this car has been in upstate NY her hole life and yea. def not like colorado.

    2 days ago i started a pad/rotor change, ended up snapping 3 bolts and 4 ceased slider pins. snapped bolts stuck in the bracket ect.. had to wait till today for parts to come in to get her back togher.

    i would much rather pay a shop to do the install and not have to worry about it.

    now if i had my own garage it would be diffrent but meh.

    anyways back to topic

  15. #269
    Registered User lytlec's Avatar
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    So after reading this whole thread I have come up with 5 million different combinations for tranny fluid. I think I am more confused now than I was before lol!
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  16. #270
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    Quote Originally Posted by lytlec View Post
    So after reading this whole thread I have come up with 5 million different combinations for tranny fluid. I think I am more confused now than I was before lol!
    imho, find some oem extra-s or w/e that subaru stuff is called.

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