How the crap do I bleed the clutch?
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This is a discussion on How the crap do I bleed the clutch? within the General Maintenance, Troubleshooting & Accidents. forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; Basically, my lines are FULL of air. And I've had several different people tell me several different methods. (None of ...

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    Red face How the crap do I bleed the clutch?

    Basically, my lines are FULL of air. And I've had several different people tell me several different methods. (None of which have worked)

    The hard way:

    1.) open the nipple bleeder.
    2.) push in the clutch.
    3.) close the nipple bleeder.
    4.) pull out the clutch.
    5.) repeat.

    The problem with that was, when I put my finger over the nipple and opened it, I could feel air being sucked in. Then it was pushed out when I pushed the clutch in. I gave up because I assume thats not supposed to happen.

    The other hard way.

    1.) Put clear tubing on the nipple.
    2.) fill the line with brake fluid, put the other end into a battle of brake fluid.
    3.) Proceed to do it the open nipple, push clutch, close nipple, lift clutch method

    This didn't seem to work because I saw air bubbles just sitting in the line. So I gave up on that.

    As of now I pulled the nipple bleed out completely. Someone told me that eventually, fluid should flow out the other end.

    I've searched the forums for help, thats where I got most of this info. But alas, I MUST be doing something wrong. I half suspect that there is another leak in the lines somewhere, since I got into mess due to low clutch fluid which led to a poor preforming clutch. However, its most likely very slow.

    In summary, can someone tell me a fool proof, straight forward method to bleeding the clutch? Or, point out what I'm doing wrong? Any help would be GREATLY appreciated.

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  3. #2
    Registered User tom'sti's Avatar
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    How did it get full of air? Is the slave cylinder sucking air in? Is it leaking anywhere? Why do you think its full of air?
    Whoever appeals to the law against his fellow man is either a fool or a coward. Whoever cannot take care of himself without that law is both. For a wounded man shall say to his assailant,"If I live, I will kill you. If i die, you are forgiven. " such is the rule of Honor.

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    Geriatric Ginger Mod Rogan's Avatar
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    1. Get a buddy to help
    2. remove clutch reservour cap
    3. Top off fluid
    3. Pump clutch pedal 3-4 times, last pump, hold pedal to the floor, or as far down as it'll go
    4. Have helper crack the valve open a little. Air and fliud should shoot out, so make sure it's collected and not spraying everywhere. It WILL EAT PAINT.
    4a. MAKE SURE PEDAL IS NOT LIFTED AT ALL. Pedal should continue to the floor and HELD THERE.
    5. Tighten the bleeder.
    6. Go to step 3, repeat as necessary.

    NOTE: Keep a close eye on the fluid level in the reservour. NEVER let it get too low.
    Rogan o_0
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    '01 Dodge 2500 CTD 6-holed hand-shaker - 3850# dual disk - 900 lb/ft - SOLD
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    I got full of air overtime somehow. I noticed a couple weeks ago that my clutch felt mushy. Then once in a while It would stick to the floor, and I'd have to lift it back. Then It started to do that ALL the time. Then I could barely shift into first so thats when I decided to look at the fluid level.

    When I looked at it, the reservoir was empty. I assume it had been for a while and was slowly sucking in air. When I went to bleed the clutch, A small amount of fluid came out initially. But my inexperience probably led to making the problem worse by sucking MORE air into the lines.

    I'll try Rogans method tonight. Will post with hopefully GREAT SUCESS!

  6. #5
    Geriatric Ginger Mod Rogan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheGreenMeadow View Post
    I got full of air overtime somehow. I noticed a couple weeks ago that my clutch felt mushy. Then once in a while It would stick to the floor, and I'd have to lift it back. Then It started to do that ALL the time. Then I could barely shift into first so thats when I decided to look at the fluid level.

    When I looked at it, the reservoir was empty. I assume it had been for a while and was slowly sucking in air. When I went to bleed the clutch, A small amount of fluid came out initially. But my inexperience probably led to making the problem worse by sucking MORE air into the lines.

    I'll try Rogans method tonight. Will post with hopefully GREAT SUCESS!
    then you've got a leak somewhere, buddy.. i think you may have a failing clutch slave cylinder or clutch master cylinder..
    Rogan o_0
    '96 Dodge 2500 CTD @ 40psi - over 700 lb/ft TQ, 7" stack, and 5speed! - SOLD
    '01 Dodge 2500 CTD 6-holed hand-shaker - 3850# dual disk - 900 lb/ft - SOLD
    '97 Dodge 3500 CTD DUALLY built Auto - 40psi boosties - 750 lb/ft

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    Quote Originally Posted by Rogan View Post
    then you've got a leak somewhere, buddy.. i think you may have a failing clutch slave cylinder or clutch master cylinder..
    Just got back.

    So I'm guessing no amount of bleeding will help? I tried it your way, and every time I would crack the valve with the pedal down after pumping, nothing would come out, no air or fluid.

    However, when I crack it open and THEN push the clutch down, some air and fluid DID shoot out. Then I would close the valve, lift the pedal, and crack it again, I could feel air sucking back in. So, back to square one.

    I can't even imagine what would cause this...

  8. #7
    Geriatric Ginger Mod Rogan's Avatar
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    last dealio...
    Go to advance auto parts, pep boys, etc., and get a "one man bleeder"..
    It's basically a small piece of tubing (clear) with a checkvalve in the middle.. Fit it to the bleeder screw, ensuring a snug fit on the nipple, and IT IS IN THE CORRECT DIRECTION..
    Then, start pumping the clutch pedal slowly, or at least lightly moderate.
    Have a buddy watch it, and look for fluid movement..

    Also, in my previous method, ensure you're cracking the bleeder enough to allow fluid/air to pass...
    Rogan o_0
    '96 Dodge 2500 CTD @ 40psi - over 700 lb/ft TQ, 7" stack, and 5speed! - SOLD
    '01 Dodge 2500 CTD 6-holed hand-shaker - 3850# dual disk - 900 lb/ft - SOLD
    '97 Dodge 3500 CTD DUALLY built Auto - 40psi boosties - 750 lb/ft

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    Sounds like a plan. Will post results tomorrow morning. Stress levels at breaking point. Need beer.

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    Geriatric Ginger Mod Rogan's Avatar
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    BTW, it looks like this:



    I just added a length of vac. line to the end, and zip-tied the hoses tightly to the checkvalve, as well as using one on the bleeder valve end..
    Rogan o_0
    '96 Dodge 2500 CTD @ 40psi - over 700 lb/ft TQ, 7" stack, and 5speed! - SOLD
    '01 Dodge 2500 CTD 6-holed hand-shaker - 3850# dual disk - 900 lb/ft - SOLD
    '97 Dodge 3500 CTD DUALLY built Auto - 40psi boosties - 750 lb/ft

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    Moderator Donkey's Avatar
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    You can also use a Mity-vac or Speed bleeder.HELP! now makes them(speed bleeders) and most auto stores carry these.Everytime i have bled a clutch on a WRX i have to pump the pedal back up (20-30x) after bleeding.It drops to the floor immediatly after bleeding but after pumping it up,it never goes soft again.
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  12. #11
    Geriatric Ginger Mod Rogan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Donkey View Post
    You can also use a Mity-vac or Speed bleeder.HELP! now makes them(speed bleeders) and most auto stores carry these.Everytime i have bled a clutch on a WRX i have to pump the pedal back up (20-30x) after bleeding.It drops to the floor immediatly after bleeding but after pumping it up,it never goes soft again.
    The Integra did the same thing.. I bled the crap out of it, and the pedal was still spongy, and I'd have to press it to the carpet to get it in gear, then about .060" off the floor, the clutch would fully disengage.
    About 2 trips around the block, and it was back to normal travel.
    But right now, you definitely need to ensure all air is gone, (obviously)
    Rogan o_0
    '96 Dodge 2500 CTD @ 40psi - over 700 lb/ft TQ, 7" stack, and 5speed! - SOLD
    '01 Dodge 2500 CTD 6-holed hand-shaker - 3850# dual disk - 900 lb/ft - SOLD
    '97 Dodge 3500 CTD DUALLY built Auto - 40psi boosties - 750 lb/ft

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    Well, the story goes like this.

    There was no way I could build pressure anywhere, anyhow, using any tools. So I suspect either a leak in the system, or a bad master cylinder.

    My question is, if it was a bad mater cylinder, would the symptoms be slow in the making as in my case, or would it be a "all at once things stop working kinda deal"?

    Knowing this, I could determine what route to take to repair the problem!

  14. #13
    Registered User tom'sti's Avatar
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    No pressure and no leaks=bad master.
    Yes i could happen all at once.
    Whoever appeals to the law against his fellow man is either a fool or a coward. Whoever cannot take care of himself without that law is both. For a wounded man shall say to his assailant,"If I live, I will kill you. If i die, you are forgiven. " such is the rule of Honor.

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    Well that still leaves me wondering, is the cause of my problem a bad master cylinder? Or a leak somewhere in the hydraulic system? Both would prevent me from bleeding the clutch.

    The question is, would a bad master cylinder allow a small leak to occur over a period of time? Or would a bad master cylinder be a sudden massive failure?

    If its not a bad master cylinder, and it is just a small leak that allowed alot of air in the lines, would that prevent me from bleeding the clutch? If it does, then the master cylinder might be ok, and I have to look to a leak somewhere else.

    Does all this sound correct?

  16. #15
    Moderator Donkey's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheGreenMeadow View Post
    Well that still leaves me wondering, is the cause of my problem a bad master cylinder? Or a leak somewhere in the hydraulic system? Both would prevent me from bleeding the clutch.

    The question is, would a bad master cylinder allow a small leak to occur over a period of time? Or would a bad master cylinder be a sudden massive failure?

    If its not a bad master cylinder, and it is just a small leak that allowed alot of air in the lines, would that prevent me from bleeding the clutch? If it does, then the master cylinder might be ok, and I have to look to a leak somewhere else.

    Does all this sound correct?
    Dude,if you had a leak,crap would be everywhere.You should know right away if you had a leak.Everything is visiable once you pull the TMIC.You only get air in the lines when you fluid is low and exposes the master cylinder or from old fluid absorbing moisture that boils durring hard braking.If you have a "leak" as in fluid,everytime you pushed in the clutch fluid would be spraying out.Do you see fluid anywhere?
    Resident Adviser @ WTF Tuning, LLC
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