oil change and other oil questions
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This is a discussion on oil change and other oil questions within the General Maintenance, Troubleshooting & Accidents. forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; Ok I am quickly approaching 3k miles, most likely by the end of this week. Id just get my oil ...

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    oil change and other oil questions

    Ok I am quickly approaching 3k miles, most likely by the end of this week. Id just get my oil change at Subaru but its like 45 minutes from my house so I think I am going to do it myself, with my dad helping since Ive never changed oil on my car.

    I was reading the Oil thread from the maintance and service faq thread, I got some info, but I am more confused after reading it.

    I am planning to use Mobil 1 10w-30, Subaru recommends 5w-30 but I understand 10w30 will be better in warmer temps and I am in south florida.

    Now as far as the filter, which should I get and can I get it at Pepboys? I know everyone has their own preference, which is what confused me on that thread, but can I get the OEM filter at pepboys (purelator I think its called?) or which other do you recommend

    And finally, when should you change the diff and gearbox oil?

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    He simply abides. SD_GR's Avatar
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    I am planning to use Mobil 1 10w-30, Subaru recommends 5w-30 but I understand 10w30 will be better in warmer temps and I am in south florida.
    Either will work and they are both mixable and interchangeable.


    Now as far as the filter, which should I get and can I get it at Pepboys? I know everyone has their own preference, which is what confused me on that thread, but can I get the OEM filter at pepboys (purelator I think its called?) or which other do you recommend
    You can get a Purolator filter at Pep Boys. You can even get the same filter the dealers used to supply for the car at Pep Boys; it was made by Purolator. However, you cannot get the OEM filter at Pep Boys for two reasons:

    1. Even though it was the same filter with a different paint scheme and label on it, and
    even though it was made by Purolator, only the version with the Subaru part # is the OEM filter. What this means is that either filter works fine but if a filter fails and causes a problem, unless it has the Subaru badge on it you are on your own regarding warranty claims (read: get the check book ready). If it says "Subaru" on it and is the correct part for your car, any claim is their problem. If not, any claim is not their problem.

    2. Over a year ago Subaru switched sizes and suppliers for the OEM filter. They also went to a different part number, then another part number. So there are 3 part numbers floating around - blabla-060, blabla-080 blabla-0100 whatever. The latter two are current, the first is the Purolator-made filter. Purolator no longer makes the OEM filter for turbo motor applications, a Japanese firm does.

    Either way you can't get an OEM filter anywhere except the dealer or mail order/online, not that is makes a practical difference.

    And finally, when should you change the diff and gearbox oil?
    Follow the maintenance schedule in your owner's manual, as it's required to maintain warranty protection.
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    thanks for the info. you seem to be like the oil god becuase I remember seeing your posts in that oil thread as well

    I would go ahead and get the OEM filters online, but I dont think it will get to me by the end of this week, but it would be the best bet since if I go to the stealership they will charge me more for it.

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    They might not charge you more for it, it depends on your area and the stealership. Some online places are affiliated with a bricks-and-mortar dealer anyway. I've done both and it works out to within $1 or so.

    Just keep all your receipts.
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    I just went ahead and ordered from mastro, and hopefully since they are in tampa it will get to me before the weekend ends.

    One thin I want to know about the oil change, in order to get the drain plug out, do you have to jack the car up or can it be done when the car is level, because I know in order for the oil to drain the car has to be level. Also, any other hints tips I should know just to make sure I dont mess anything up (overtighten, etc)

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    My 02 with stock ride height doesn't require me to use a jack and I am not a thin guy. Your 05 has different underbelly plastics and a different nose but you should have a fighting chance. If you do use a jack be really safe, never get under a car without using proper jack stands. You probably won't have to though.

    Also, the car doesn't have to be level to drain the oil, it can be tilted toward the low point in the sump -- the drain plug.
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    A synthetic question

    Quote Originally Posted by SD_GR
    Follow the maintenance schedule in your owner's manual, as it's required to maintain warranty protection.
    After the first oil change, I went with Castrol Syntec 5W-30 (full sythetic). I have the oil changes done at the dealer and they said @ 3000 +/- miles, I was wasting my money with full synthetic and could go 5000+ miles (which I've read). But if I should have a problem with the engine, I'm now worried (especially with your post) that they might develop a selective memory and I could be skrewed. True?
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    never hurts to do it every 3k miles. better on your engine. though in reality you can go much farther. on my sunfire i used to beat the **** out of that old car...i only changed the oil i think 2 or 3 times in 50k+ miles, zero problems.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 05WRX0704
    never hurts to do it every 3k miles. better on your engine. though in reality you can go much farther. on my sunfire i used to beat the **** out of that old car...i only changed the oil i think 2 or 3 times in 50k+ miles, zero problems.
    Oh, I understand and I agree. On most full bore racing engines, it's done after every run/weekend - a few hundred miles at most. I guess what I'm saying is, in the case of "old"/fossil oils, I'm sure 3K miles/change had some basis. With synthetics, is that baseline relevant... or is it just an arbitrary number? Course, if it affects my warranty, it's a number which has a great deal of meaning.
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    i was thinking the same as jag....i have M1 5w30 and its about $30 for oil and filter not including a change so the expenses rack up quickly...i was thinking of changing every 5k....j/w if anyone has any support for not changing at the normal 3k
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jag_Warrior
    After the first oil change, I went with Castrol Syntec 5W-30 (full sythetic). I have the oil changes done at the dealer and they said @ 3000 +/- miles, I was wasting my money with full synthetic and could go 5000+ miles (which I've read). But if I should have a problem with the engine, I'm now worried (especially with your post) that they might develop a selective memory and I could be skrewed. True?
    What are the oil change interval requirements in your owner's manual?

    Can anyone find me any reference to 3,000 miles after the first oil change in any SOA manual after 2001?

    Can anyone show me any evidence that changing at 3,000 is "better" for the motor?

    5,000 is a nice round number that's easy to remember so that's what I do. I have evidence there is absolutely no problem doing this with my car, my chosen oil and filter, and my driving habits.

    Quote Originally Posted by WRXcelration
    j/w if anyone has any support for not changing at the normal 3k
    Nowhere in the owner's manual or on the official SOA website or literature does it say 3,000 is "normal" for oil drain intervals. The sole exception is the first drain, and I suspect that's just so dealers can look the car over as it's new and bound to have teething problems and small adjustments needed. After that it's 7,500 miles per oil drain for normal use.

    I've posted data from a 5,800 mile oil change interval in another thread. Search for 5W-40 Truck/SUV Mobil1 aka Delvac1 and you'll see my data. Motor was basically "new" after the drain.

    Back to the original topic of Castrol 5W and 5,000 miles. Since the manufacturer requires changes at 7,500 miles (!) it seems that 5,000 with a very good oil is quite safe.

    I believe the Castrol 5W-30 "synthetic" available in the US, although not a full synthetic in any terms except those imposed by the US legal system (it's a GrIII "synth" like Amsoil XL7500, it's not a PAO/ester GrIV/V true synth), is still a very good oil and from memory it may meet ACEA A3 (wow!) or at the lesat A5. I'd not hesitate to use it.
    Last edited by SD_GR; 05-31-2005 at 11:49 AM.
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    The world breaks everyone and afterward many are strong in the broken places. Ernest Hemingway
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    DISCLAIMER: Opinions expressed are the author's alone and are inherently worthless.

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