Wagon Roof Rail Removal - Page 4
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This is a discussion on Wagon Roof Rail Removal within the Exterior and Appearance forums, part of the Tutorials & DIY category; Someday I'll delete the rails on my wagon but I've got more important things first. *cough* tires *cough*...

  1. #46
    Registered User GTScoob's Avatar
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    Someday I'll delete the rails on my wagon but I've got more important things first. *cough* tires *cough*

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  3. #47
    Moderating on the run! Big Sky WRX's Avatar
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    Did mine today- kind of a pain in the butt, working on trim pieces is not my favorite pastime.

    I used plastic auto fastners and just pushed them into the holes (put silicone under the head of each one, and then a little around the edges).

    Looks great though -that's a fact!

    Big Sky

  4. #48
    Registered User Desolate One's Avatar
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    Some news for you guys, don't know if it was brought up else where but the Saab 9-2X roof mouldings fit as well.
    P/N:

    32009136
    32009137

    Just got mine done today, looking good!

    Additional: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=604062

    Apparently there's a huge debate/scrutiny over the validity of the 9-2X parts. Some pics at this NASIOC thread. They screamed for pics so I ran out and took one. They should have just looked here!
    Last edited by Desolate One; 09-26-2004 at 08:47 PM.

  5. #49
    Registered User WRXTwiztid's Avatar
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    looks really good. makes the wagons look pimp. specialy lowered.
    05' WRB STI
    MODS

    Go raibh tú leathuair ar Neamh
    sula bhfuil a fhios ag an diabhal go bhfuil tú marbh


    May you be a half-hour in Heaven before the devil knows that you're dead.

  6. #50
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    I drive a Saabaru 92X and I'm looking for some roof rails. Anyone with a WRX wagon that wants to go rail-less? I'll trade you my roof deletes for your rails.

    I live in Fremont, CA.

    rixdropbox@yahoo.com

  7. #51
    Registered User myf2was's Avatar
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    9-2x Trim for impreza rails

    Same deal here, I'm sick of using thule towers on my cars and want something factory.

    sidenote: Thule rack for cheap also ....

    Anyone know if the 9-2x holes are plugged or if drilling is required. Also the plugs would make for a good fix for the deleters.

    i am EXTREMELY hesitant to drill in my roof.especially in that area...

    anyway if someone wants to swap parts let me know.

    win win

  8. #52
    Registered User Quack's Avatar
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    i just sold my factory rails to sullymonster, i'd PM him to see what it takes to install the rails on the 9-2x

  9. #53
    Registered User wagon man's Avatar
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    Has anyone tried this on an 2006 yet? Everything visually looks the same to me.

  10. #54
    Registered User wagon man's Avatar
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    The moulding PN's for the 2005-2006 are: (info from the dealer)

    91046FE001
    91046FE011

  11. #55
    Registered User Richie03's Avatar
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    I'm looking for a set of wagon roof rails for a Saab 9-2X. I live near Phila, PA.

  12. #56
    Registered User WTypeRogerX's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ofrogg
    Anybody know if the Saabaru comes with these plugs? I'm doing a swap with a Saabaru tomorrow and don't know if he has all the parts I need.
    2005 World Rally Blue WRX Sportwagon
    Biatch totalled my 2002 WRB WRX Sportwagon
    I miss my bugeye.
    Image is nothing, performance is everything. All your rice be ownz by us.
    If you're not going to spend your money on women or alcohol, you might as well spend it on cars.

  13. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by WTypeRogerX
    Anybody know if the Saabaru comes with these plugs? I'm doing a swap with a Saabaru tomorrow and don't know if he has all the parts I need.

    if you're lucky you'll get these:



  14. #58
    Registered User WTypeRogerX's Avatar
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    Cool. Do you need to put screws into the middle 2 holes of each of those brackets?

    I already ran out and bought the plugs and screws, but I guess I'll return them if I don't need them.
    2005 World Rally Blue WRX Sportwagon
    Biatch totalled my 2002 WRB WRX Sportwagon
    I miss my bugeye.
    Image is nothing, performance is everything. All your rice be ownz by us.
    If you're not going to spend your money on women or alcohol, you might as well spend it on cars.

  15. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by WTypeRogerX
    Cool. Do you need to put screws into the middle 2 holes of each of those brackets?

    I already ran out and bought the plugs and screws, but I guess I'll return them if I don't need them.

    nope. iirc those holes are for the yakima type racks. you should be fine w/the plugs since you already have them.

  16. #60
    Registered User WTypeRogerX's Avatar
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    2 - Remove all the grab handles. Under each end of the handle there is a cap. Becareful not to damage these caps because you will reuse them. I did not use anything to pry them off. The trick to get them off is to pull the handle and twist at the same time. With the other hand, simply pull on the covers. Be persistant. They will come off.
    I found that by using a flat screwdriver under the inner (towards middle of the handle) of each cap and prying would loosen the cap, then wiggle the outer side with your hand to unsnap that side of the cap. That way you don't risk breaking the tab on the outer side of the cap. Then slide the cap towards the middle of the handle to uncover the screw holding in the handle.

    3 - Remove the seat belt attachments. All the seat belt anchors have covers. Becareful not to damage them. I used a straight head screw driver to gently pop them off. Twist the seat belt anchor to access the under side. I pryed them off there so if I did mark'em up, you won't see it. Under all the covers you will find a 14 mm bolt. Remove the bolts.
    The covers are attached where you can see a slit in the plastic. The last anchor cover by the C-D pillar on the right side does not pop off completely like the others. After popping 3 sides, I simply pivoted it away to remove the bolt.

    4 - Remove the interior panels. Here is where it gets fun. I started on the A-pillar (front @ windshield). Simply grab onto the top of the moulding about 3 inches down from the top and just pull towards yourself. They will pop free from the top. I just poped them loose @ the top and left them in the dash hanging free. Next the B-pillar. You will have to remove both upper and lower sections.
    I only removed the top of the B-pillar just like the A-pillar.

    5 - Remove the C-D pillar. Start by removing the rear cargo shade. Under those points where the shade goes into the panel you will find a phillps head screw. Remove the screw. At the rear you will also find a phillps head screw where the shade slides into. Remove that screw. Now using the same method as before, pull the moulding loose. I started at the C-pillar and then to the D-pilar. Once it was loose at both ends I worked it free by pulling straight out. At the same time a got my fingers in between the glass and the panel to help pop it free.
    I also only removed the top of the C-D pillar without taking it out entirely.
    8 - Remove to foward map light. Under the lens you will see two phillips head screws. Remove them. I used Subaruparts.com to figure out how it comes out. Becareful not damage the lens. DO NOT TWIST the screwdriver to remove the lens. Just insert into slot and pry up. That will keep you from marking up the dome light. I learned the hard way. Unclip the wires to remove the entire assembly.
    There are 2 slots at the rear of the lens where you can insert the flat screwdriver to pry out the lens. I was unable to unclip the mother of the wires socket, so I simply slid it sideways through the headliner like it says to do with the dome light in #10.

    9 - Remove the snap in retainers that hold the headliner up. This is where you will need the pickle fork tool. There are 3 spots to remove these push-in type retainers. Under the rear moulding (step 6) you will find two of these. Slide the tool in between the headliner and the metal body to pop them free. The center tabs are just above the rear passenger area. These come out very easily. They are two-piece type so just gently remove the tab. I got my finger nail in between the tab and the headliner. It comes out without any force. These two pieces stay together and will pull out once the top pops out. The last roof tab is under the center visor area. This one was a mother but will come out using the pickle fork tool. Slide the tool in between the headliner and metal body.
    There wasn't any snap rivet under the rear moulding in my car ('05). Instead of using a pickle fork tool to remove the rivet in front of the map lights, I thrust my fingers under the headliner on each side of the rivet and pulled down to release it.

    11 - The headliner will now be free. Gently losen it free around all the rubber weatherstrips. Remove the headliner assembly through the rear cargo door.
    Since I hadn't removed the entire B and C-D pillars, I slid the headliner out at the top of the car, bending it slightly to clear the hatch. A small hard foam support at the right front came unstuck - I didn't see or find a matching foam piece at the front left. Perhaps removing the B and C-D pillars would have allowed easier removal of the headliner by pulling it through the low part of the hatch which is wider, but I didn't want to have to mess with pulling the lower B-pillar which sounded like a PITA.

    Removing the rails and moulding needs some more explaination:
    The bolt that at the front of the rail rear foot is easily seen and removed. However the rear-most bolt is inside a big hole in inside of the steel roof structure. Then there are 2 bolts a bit farther forward that hold the brackets similar to those Yakima brackets that j*bishop showed pics of. Ignore these. I unscrewed them by mistake and then figured out what they were.
    Removing the moulding was a PITA until I figured out how they were secured. There are little plastic clasps that hook into little metal bumps built into the roof track. They clip in one direction. Pull the big moulding piece forward or backwards to unhook the clasps. The smaller front moulding piece was a mother until I figured out it is secured near the windshield with a plastic rivet attached to the moulding. Just pull up from the front by the windshield until the rivet and moulding pop out there and pull the moulding forward or backward to release the other clasps.

    15 - Reverse the step to reassemly. Dont forget to reinstall the grab handle mounting plates before you reinstall the headliner.
    I used too much strength with my 135 pound body tightening the grab handle mounting plate and stripped the head off a screw! Don't overtighten!!!
    Last edited by WTypeRogerX; 04-09-2006 at 01:58 PM.
    2005 World Rally Blue WRX Sportwagon
    Biatch totalled my 2002 WRB WRX Sportwagon
    I miss my bugeye.
    Image is nothing, performance is everything. All your rice be ownz by us.
    If you're not going to spend your money on women or alcohol, you might as well spend it on cars.

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