2002 WRX purchasing worries?

[rickeolis]

I'm looking at 2 different 2002 wagons, and I would like to know what you guys feel I should be checking specifically?

I know cars well, I work on my own Porsche 911 Targa, but am not very familiar with the WRX. I can visibly check some things like CV boots, intercooler fins, etc. but do not know certain known issues to be checking for-

I would appreciate that, thanks!!

[302@12psi]

you have a 911 targa...and your looking at a used wrx....hoepfuly the 911 isnt new

Oh well back to your question. There are a few things to look for and they are:
Ask if the car had the clutch shudder fixed
Two warranties so far...make sure they were performed
And lastly...Look for signs of mods.

If you read a few threads alot of people are going back to stock...this leaves alot of raped wrx to be sold. If i was you if has an aftermarket BOV or any other stupid kind of mod, aire on the side of caution. The one 02 I looked at had a BOV, and FRESH STOCK 43,000 miles exhaust with FRESH bolts holding the turbo in. Also it had ECUTec stickers under the hood......gee i'm sure it wasnt raped Oh well....good luck

[Shifty]

Keep an eye out for tranny noises or loose clutches. I test drove a couple of 02 scoobies that had some major issues going on with them tranny wise. The motor is strong so there isn't much to worry about there.

Looking for mods is also a key sign that it might have been driven a little harder than a completely stock one.

Good Luck!!

[SD_GR]

Did you see this thread?

buying a used rex...Q's.

There are more too; this one is just the tip of the iceberg.

[SD_GR]

Here's a quote but again, it's just a little info, search for a more complete picture of how to buy a used 02:

"Be meticulous and cautious. Do not buy a modified car.

Only buy a car with FSH in the form of a logbook and original receipts in the owner's name from an authorized dealer or repair facility (no independents for the FSH on such a new car).

Take it to an independent specialist and have them do a compression test, check the turbo shaft for play, check the brakes and clutch for wear, and pull 100 ml samples of motor oil, gearbox oil, and coolant - have these analyzed by an independent lab. Ask the owner what brand lubrication/cooling products are in use - if you get a blank stare or BS, do not buy the car. If you get an answer, send the samples in for testing and use your own fresh fluid (same type indicated by owner) to replenish the car if needed.

Have the mechanic comment on the plugs while they are out.

Have the shop pull any ECU codes. If no codes, check the battery terminal for wear indicating it's had contact with a wrench - if the FSH doesn't indicate any reason to pull off the terminal, the ECU codes may have been blanked by the owner. Ask and depending on the answer, decide...

Find a body shop and pay a body repair person to take a look at the body and tell you if it's been re-sprayed and if all the seams are original, and if any panels have been replaced.

Check the condition of the driver's floor mat. It should not look ancient in a car with low mileage. The usual pedal cover check doesn't apply, as these are metal. Check the wheels/rubber for ridiculous wear that doesn't correspond to the driven-by-granny-to-church-only story you may have heard.

Do not buy a car with a spotless engine bay. Find a nice dirty one. Look for streaks of fluid and/or other leak signs. Look for juice marks on the tarmac where the car is usually parked. Check the exhaust component bolts from the manifold all the way to the muffler, turbo and up/down pipe included of course, and see if they've ever been removed. Check the story.

Look all around the car and inside the engine bay for anything that looks out of place or that doesn't agree with the image a machine put together at a factory by pros and robots would portray - signs of an aspiring "tuner" should make you run.

This will take time and effort, and will not be free, but it will ensure you'll have a fighting chance of getting what you think you're getting. Don't rush to buy a car, it's simply not worth it. This is a Subaru, they make them every day and you'll find another soon enough. Rushing costs money."

[rickeolis]

I really appreciate that, yes a PPI would be warranted.

Thanks very much for the link to the detailed info too SD-GR!

I understand trannies can be an issue. This one I'm looking at has the short shift kit, but responds very well. No leaks, CV boots look good, engine bay has light dust and no obvious damage anywhere. It has 50k miles, but is priced right as well. They have a NEW set of tires, and it looks showroon nice right now...

302@12psi: It's a 1977 911, and is costing me too much now, butit's still nice!

[SD_GR]

It has 50k miles, but is priced right as well. They have a NEW set of tires, and it looks showroon nice right now...

That could be a good sign, particularly if the wheels are stock. For mostly freeway driving (implied by the 50K miles) the stock RE92s can be stretched to 40K miles or more if driven sanely. Of course, it could also mean 4 pairs of autocross R compound tires too, so who knows... But you see what I mean.