CV boot just ripped, replace just boot or whole axle?

View Poll Results: Replace whole axle or boot?

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  • Whole axle

    1 10.00%
  • boot only

    4 40.00%
  • whole axle + yea for teh bewbs

    5 50.00%
  • boot only + teh yea for bewbs

    0 0%
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This is a discussion on CV boot just ripped, replace just boot or whole axle? within the Everyday Impreza Talk forums, part of the Community - Meet other Enthusiasts category; So on my way home from the parental units house, I noticed smoke coming out of the hood scoop. I ...

  1. #1
    Resident meany-rator 06wrx4me's Avatar
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    CV boot just ripped, replace just boot or whole axle?

    So on my way home from the parental units house, I noticed smoke coming out of the hood scoop. I pulled over and saw smoke coming from the turbo and an oily substance on the exhaust. I was beyond pissed thinking my turbo had just eatin itself.

    Limped home (was only a mile), and upon closer inspection with a flash light, my pass side inner CV boot has a tear and the oily substance was melted axle grease.

    So the question is:

    Replace the boot or the whole axle?

    My car has 79k miles.

    Autozone lifetime axle is $69 + core

    Boot alone is $20

    What I know is some CV boots are a complete PITA to change.

    What say you club dub?
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  3. #2
    Moderator   Sasquatch's Avatar
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    While you are there axle(?).

    At least you know to add at least one bewb (correctly misspelled) option.
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    Lando Calrissian DemonWRX's Avatar
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    whole axle!

    I had a CV boot go on my old CRX..... To replace the boot, you have to pull the axle out anyway, so it will actually be less work to replace the whole axle than to pull the axel, replace boot, re-grease, and reinstall.
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  5. #4
    He simply abides. SD_GR's Avatar
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    Inner and outer boot plus main axle nut using authentic Subaru parts for everything except the axle grease.

    The reason I say to keep the axle is you are unlikely to find an authentic Subaru axle for a reasonable amount of money, and if your axle is good, there is no point in swapping the entire thing. My car has the fronts on both sides this way -- boots, bands, and nuts from the dealer and grease from anyone that doesn't charge what SOA wants for axle grease (I think the last price I got was in the twelve thousand dollar range for the axle grease...).

    If the axle is good, IMO it's worth the mess. You'll need both types of band tools though, the clicker and the sardine opener type, as the axles use both band types. Get a punch too for tapping the bands to make sure they stay. I don't know if your car model uses the retaining pin on the gearbox side of each axle; if it does, you don't have to get new pins but then again it's tempting to do so if you're ordering stuff anyway.

    If the axle is shot, find yourself an authentic Subaru unit. The aftermarket axles don't inspire confidence.

    The passenger side went now and even though the driver side may see less heat, it's probably suspect so have a look. If the boots are dry, give it thought. Worst case is one axle complete for one side plus boots and bands for the other; hopefully both your axles will be serviceable though. The passenger side axle can fight back because I suspect of sprinklers and such from sidewalks over time, so be prepared to negotiate (dead blow hammer is one tactic for the debate with the axle, etc.). A paint marker is good to mark the location of the strut so you won't lose alignment. You'll need ring pliers too for swapping over boots.

    I have heard horror stories about the inexpensive imitation axles -- one story talks about vibration even at idle etc. -- so I would keep the authentic axles if they are at all serviceable. Just have rags, newspapers, hand cleaner etc. for the mess.

    See:
    Axel/CV Joint Rebuild
    and
    FRONT CV BOOT PROBLEM!!!!!!
    and
    WRX Front Drive Shafts
    Last edited by SD_GR; 02-05-2012 at 01:02 AM.
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  6. #5
    Registered User oguitar's Avatar
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    Just replace the boot. It is not very hard at all once the axle is off the car. I did not even use special tools for the clamps. Just have to be a little resourceful.
    Life is like riding a bicycle in order to keep your balance you must keep moving.

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    Resident meany-rator 06wrx4me's Avatar
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    Great input guys thanx!

    I think my axles are still good, no noise or troubles. The boot just ripped yesterday and I haven't driven it, although I'm gonna have to get to work.

    So I see the boot clamp tools are affordable on amazon $50 for all 3 types. But after the axle is out, how do you get it apart? Are there c-clips/e-clips holding the cv together?

    Subaru genuine has new boots for $13 a piece plus tax and shipping, I'll see what my local dealer can do.
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  8. #7
    Moderator T0rque's Avatar
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    Replace the axle, the other boots are just as bad as the one that ripped


    Lead Wrench @ WTF Tuning, LLC

  9. #8
    He simply abides. SD_GR's Avatar
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    From memory there is at least one clip, the type with a hole on either end that requires pliers with "pins" on the end to squeeze it and free it. Those clips I did not buy so they were re-used.

    See post 4, this thread for instructions:
    http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2032622

    Instructions also here:
    http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...hlight=cv+boot

    and another form here:
    http://wiki.answers.com/Q/How_do_you...subaru_outback

    Once you remove the clip, keep the little bearing things in order because I've no clue how they fit together should they fall apart.

    Once you see the bands you will know which two tools to buy/borrow. The dealer guy might point out what they use too if you ask, you never know.

    One of the Nasioc links has a link to a couple reputable reman axle sources too, but I have never used them, I went the change-all-boots route.

    Ask the dealer for the correct torque spec on your model for the axle nut no matter how you go about the repair, as a good faith gesture towards your wheel bearings.
    Last edited by SD_GR; 02-05-2012 at 11:17 AM.
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    The world breaks everyone and afterward many are strong in the broken places. Ernest Hemingway
    I lied. I cheated. I bribed men to cover the crimes of other men. I am an accessory to murder. But the most damning thing of all... I think I can live with it. And if I had to do it all over again - I would. Benjamin Sisko
    DISCLAIMER: Opinions expressed are the author's alone and are inherently worthless.

  10. #9
    Resident meany-rator 06wrx4me's Avatar
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    I'm gonna jack the car up tonight and assess the situation. Might try rigging the boot closed to get me to work tomorrow without grease and **** flinging out and road crap flinging in. IDK maybe duct tape or something will work till i can get it fixed.

    Interesting in one of those threads you posted Spiros, guy talks about replacing the crimp metal bands with metal zip ties.
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  11. #10
    Registered User oguitar's Avatar
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    When mine ripped I bandaged it with a bunch of electrical tape. It did the trick for a few days.
    Life is like riding a bicycle in order to keep your balance you must keep moving.

  12. #11
    Resident meany-rator 06wrx4me's Avatar
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    Yeah just got done and showered; pass side inner boot is ripped. I cleaned and bandaged with electrical and duct tape to get me by. Outer boots look in better shape on both sides, but the driver side inner isn't long for this world either. Didn't feel any slop in the CV's, and have never heard any noises, so they should be fine to rebuild depending on cost. I'll call my dealer tomorrow and make a decision.
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  13. #12
    Admiral Ackbar the 1st mycologist's Avatar
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    I did a lot of research on axels when faced with this for the outback - do not get the autozone etc. etc. many people have had bad luck.

    These are the only ones you can be sure won't cause vibrations or issues, and you can do one at a time.

    MW Enterprises, quality remanufactured Subaru Axles

    At $75 there is no way I would just do the boot, but that's your call.
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  14. #13
    He simply abides. SD_GR's Avatar
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    If you have had luck with MW Enterprises then they make lots of sense actually, since the parts alone with cost that much and a replacement whole axle is much easier to do.
    WRX Info Links, Courtesy TheJ
    The world breaks everyone and afterward many are strong in the broken places. Ernest Hemingway
    I lied. I cheated. I bribed men to cover the crimes of other men. I am an accessory to murder. But the most damning thing of all... I think I can live with it. And if I had to do it all over again - I would. Benjamin Sisko
    DISCLAIMER: Opinions expressed are the author's alone and are inherently worthless.

  15. #14
    Resident meany-rator 06wrx4me's Avatar
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    I wonder what shipping both ways would be on those MWE axles. That website is kinda clunky and a google search doesn't net anything.
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  16. #15
    Captain James of the SS Impreza has gone down with the ship Drews's Avatar
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    There is a guy who did a write up on rebuilding his CV joint on his LGT over on legacygt.com. If you search the forum over there I'm sure it will come up. We just replaced the whole axle when the one on the LGT went out. It's easier and almost the same price.
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