ShadowPR gets a new hobby and learns a few things

**mangostick** · 03-30-2011 10:35 AM

Originally Posted by rage-wrx

Yeah,that was the instructions I've been following but that write up says torque is only 60 ftlb.

factory manual states 106lbft.. I'd go with that vs the article.

edit:
actually later in the article it mentions torquing them back to 100ftlbs or so.

Originally Posted by shadowpr

I had my car up on jacks while I did all my mods. The whiteline subframe inserts have a top and bottom part, so I had to undo all the subframe bolts to get it low enough to slide the inserts in on the top. I did get all the bolts back in. Like mangostick said, just put them in a little bit each until they are all lined up. The bolt that gave me trouble and started to spin on me, is probably a fluke. I can't torque that one to spec since it keeps spinning, but the others are good.

I'ma gonna go out on a limb here but thats likely where your noise in the rear is coming from. These bolts thread into welded nutserts in the sheet metal of the body shell. If that welded nut breaks loose.. you get exactly what you describe. Spins but wont tighten down.

I didn't have to drop my subframe very far to get the kartboy inserts in.. just about a 1/2" and slid them in at the top in front.. and the rears go onto the bottom of the bushing so for those you dont need to drop anything aside of the bolt and gigantor washer/plate that interfaces the bushing. I did mine one at a time like the article states. I used all hand tools and only took me about 35min.

**rage-wrx** · 03-30-2011 10:38 AM

ok.You have the factory manual?If its online ,do you mind sharing the link?

**mangostick** · 03-30-2011 10:53 AM

I dont have a link, but I did download it from somewhere in pdf. Let me see if I can track down the link. I'm on the work machine now so dont have all my nifty bookmarks available.

**mangostick** · 03-30-2011 10:58 AM

Untitled Document

linky

**rage-wrx** · 03-30-2011 11:02 AM

No hurry.Take your time.It would be very helpful.

*My apologies to shadowpr for desecrating his build thread.

**rage-wrx** · 03-30-2011 11:07 AM

That was fast.Thank you.Now we are in business.

**shadowpr** · 03-30-2011 12:29 PM

Originally Posted by mangostick

I'ma gonna go out on a limb here but thats likely where your noise in the rear is coming from. These bolts thread into welded nutserts in the sheet metal of the body shell. If that welded nut breaks loose.. you get exactly what you describe. Spins but wont tighten down.

Any ideas on how to fix that? Or am I looking at a visit to the dealer?

Originally Posted by rage-wrx

*My apologies to shadowpr for desecrating his build thread.

I don't care. I ask people questions in there threads all the time. Its all about learning.

**mangostick** · 03-30-2011 01:48 PM

Originally Posted by shadowpr

Any ideas on how to fix that? Or am I looking at a visit to the dealer?

Usually with old cars what would be done is to cut a hole in the floor above the area where the nutsert is and weld it back into place or replace nutsert and weld. ... With a car as new as ours are.. man I dunno. A body shop would be much better equipped to deal with such a repair vs a dealer service department.

Remember guys these bolts should require no more force than you can develop with your hand and at most a short ratchet/socket (or just socket in hand) until it bottoms against the washer/bushing. If it doesn't want to thread straight dont force it, and if you run into resistance mid way through there might be a bur or something else on the bolt threads. Dont be afraid to take them back out and check them over or toss a bit of grease on the threads

Besides.. if you grease them a little bit it goes a long way toward keeping them from rusting in place and makes removal later much easier if you need/want to.

**shadowpr** · 03-30-2011 02:53 PM

It was just one of those things. I was thinking, after I take a look at it again, to see if the dealer might be able to do something under warranty. And I did use grease on it. It didn't matter.

Anyway, my new shorty antenna is here. Going to change that out today.

**mangostick** · 03-30-2011 04:16 PM

Once they find the subframe lockdown bushings you may have some trouble getting that covered under warranty.. though, never hurts to try.

**mudferret** · 03-30-2011 04:23 PM

I'd start by removing bushings that are located where bolts aren't able to be torqued to spec, it may feel plenty tight, but the loads and forces can make the bushing/bolt scream otherwise. It may help you diagnose the issue as well.

**rage-wrx** · 04-09-2011 12:20 PM

I seem to have developed the exact same problem.I installed the rear subframe bushings.Did everything by the book.Everything was fine untill I got to the last subframe bolt,the front one on the driver side.It didn't want to go in.I applied some grease,did not force it in,but it got in eventually,but I am not able to torque it to spec.It's in there but like I said not torqued to spec.
Shadowpr,what did you do to fix this?

**shadowpr** · 04-09-2011 04:43 PM

I haven't started trying to fix it yet.

I got a new kid plate, and used it for a few days. When I went to take it off so I could make some sides to it, I noticed the nut on the lower rad support was coming out. Waiting on a part to hopefully fix that. Since I was in the frnt, I removed the front badge, and the headlights. Going to be painting them.

After those are done, then I'll get back to working on the rear noise. My plan is to first remove everything from the trunk, and ride like that to see if it's still there. Next will be to rip everything up and see if I can see where that bolt screws into.