1) Has anyone traded in their TSX for the WRX? I find the TSX has poor snow performance at best. It's a great and reliable car, but my commute of unplowed snow and icy hills in the winter renders it useless in the winter. Can't even make it up my driveway. So I have steal my wife's RX
Living in the Northwest where there is an ever increasing amount of snow, ice, slush, and heavy rain in the winter has prompted me to consider an AWD vehicle. I'm also considering the MDX and Rav4, but I'm just not too fond of SUV 'box types.' So when I discovered the WRX wagon that combines performance and hatchback versatility, it seems to be good "hybrid" of a mid SUV and sedan. Any thoughts?
2) I had mind almost made up to trade for the WRX when I read out about blown engine issues in the early 09 WRX on the nasioc site. Some 50 occurences thus far, and seems to have happened with 09s built in July/August 2008. I'm not sure if this is b/c some people are racing the crap out of the WRXs without a proper break-in, or if it's a manufacturing/design flaw with the new turbo 265hp engine. My research suggests Subaru's hx of making fairly reliable cars, so this may just be a blip???
Has anyone on ClubWRX experienced engine failure with their 09 WRX? Thanks!
By law ( Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act -- http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magnuson–Moss_Warranty_Act ) -- it's up to the dealer/manufacturer to prove that any modification you made actually led to or contributed to the failure. However -- nothing keeps them from denying it and making you spend your money trying to get them to do the right thing.
If it were mine, and it was built during the period in question ( rod bearing failures seem to be limited to July/Aug/Sept '08 build dates of '09 models) I wouldn't alter it in any way, and I'd perform all recommended maintenance and keep records proving I'd performed such maintenance. I believe, based on SOA's explanation to me of what was happening, that every car produced during that time period has the potential to have engine failure. Whether a particular one will fail or not can usually be determined by a combination of oil analysis performed since the car was new (high silver levels early on, diminishing as time goes by) and cutting open the oil filters (lots of debris in ALL filters you cut open). If you have normal silver levels and no debris, I believe you're in the clear. If you have abnormal silver levels and debris, I believe rod bearing failure is inevitable - just a matter of time.
I have a 2010 with 5500 miles. It is making a ever so slight irritating throwout bearing squealing noise when very humid or after it rains out. Not consistent enough to bring it in. My fuel mileage is very bad 16 around town accelerating very slow and 20 on the high way going 65-70. I drive the car very easy. Others claim to get much more mpg. A few squeaking plastic issues on the panels in the back, I took apart, lubed and it corrected the issues. Consumer Reports rates the WRX much worse than average reliability. I like the WRX, very comfy, roomy, practical but I sure miss my Civic SI- no issues at all and 35 MPG with my driving style.
My 07/08 build just hit 10,200 miles and is still going strong. I had my oil analyzed and only had 2ppm silver. From what I have heard this is much higher in engines that ended up failing. I hope I'm out of the woods, but I'm not holding my breath.
Ashes - as mentioned below - start cutting your filters open too. My silver levels returned to near normal -- but debris in the filters was a constant symptom. My engine didn't fail until nearly 2 years after manufacture (1.5 years after purchase) at 24,600 miles.
Well mine didn't make it to 24k miles but close. 20k miles and i thought i might be in the clear. They are refusing to investigate why i need a new long block. Seem odd to me. Its been 3 weeks and an estimated week is left tell i get it back. I'm a little irked at how long it's taking.
How long were others without their car?
I have the extended warranty already but they are refusing to extend warranty, on engine, by 20k miles. How do i get more coverage or maybe a prorated reinbursment of the extended warranty that they seem to be handing out and i already have?
No new turbo either, i don't think they even checked it honestly, shouldn't that be a pretty strong recommendation when there is metal in the oil thats running through my turbo?
Mine went at about 8K mi. They didn't add a new turbo with mine either because the ran the tests on it and they all came back within spec. The numbers are all listed in the service report so I figured there wasn't much to do. I'm not good at raising hell over the phone
you want to make sure your dealing w/ SOA, NOT the dealer- they make the decisions on extended warranty
you want to make sure you get an "incident number" as you will refer back to that number for any communication
I'd be civil, but firm- you should get some extended warranty (or refunded $ from the warrany you purchsed)
this is a very well documented failure and almost everyone has been taken care of very well (in addition to the 100k, $0 deductible warranty- they made a car payment for me- my car was out of service for 3 weeks)- there is no reason you shouldn't expect the same
the turbo replacement is the dealer's call- I'd do everything to try and convince them to replace it- these fragments are small and the chances they didn't effect the turbo are slim IMO- I'd let them know that you'd love to purchase another Subaru from them in the future and you dn't want the spector of a faling turbo get in the way of that
I have called SOA toll free # and the lady has been no help, "I will have the dealership call you" is what she tells me. They have yet to call, yet. Should I call again and get a new person or should i be calling a different number/ asking for a specific dept or person?
Dealer says to call SOA for those questions. Newest update is it will be another week til i get the car. I have a ref # since day one. I am just getting no where with this, 5 weeks for an engine is a little bit rediculous.
As BigSky alludes to -- get SOA involved from the very beginning. In my experience SOA makes ALL the calls on these INCLUDING turbo replacement. The dealer was very clear with me -- they were recommended turbo replacement to SOA -- but SOA made the call. Your best friend is being a knowledgeable consumer. Be SURE SOA is involved; be SURE your dealer knows that you know what you're talking about. The engine should NEVER be rebuilt; a BRAND NEW FACTORY LONGBLOCK should be installed. Mine only went 9 miles after the knocking started -- and you wouldn't believe how much debris was in the oil pan. The dealer told me that they pull the turbo and examine the debris screen in the oil line to the turbo for a clue as to whether it should be replaced or not. I got a brand new long block, brand new turbo, and a Subaru Gold 7 year/100k mile extended warranty.
All this assumes you've got the rod bearing failure problem AND that you haven't modified the engine/ecu in any significant way (mine had the SPT Subaru installed factory stainless catback - in other words - completely stock). If you've made changes --- then it becomes a battle between you, the dealer and SOA.
Get SOA involved asap. In my experience -- the dealers are generally a bunch of idiots. There are exceptions -- hence the word 'generally'.
yes call again (SOA)- if your car is within the effected range (July-Aug build dates) they should be VERY accommodating to you. if the person you talk to isn't of any help, then ask to speak to her supervisor
the key is to be polite, but firm- there is no reason that you should be treated differently than the dozens of other folks who were well taken care of
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