Project Hatch (aka project grocery getter part II)

[Big Sky WRX]

well some drama with my hatch, last week I discovered some oil in the snow, put it up on ramps and found the passenger engine mount was broke- they are oil filled so that could explain the oil

I check the dipstick and discover I'm close to 1.5 quarts low- hmm, the thing never burns a drop of oil- has to be an oil leak (in addition to the broken motor mount)

My dealer is 150 miles away, so I have it flatbedded (courtesy of roadside assistance) to the dealer. I tell them I have a oil leak somewhere and a broken motor mount. They replace the mount, but says there isn't a oil leak. Now I get thinking- if the passenger side mount is broke and the engine leans that way- is it possible the dip stick reads low (it's on the driver's side). If that's true- the oil is overfilled. I run that by them, no the oil level is fine. I'm still very concerned w/ the low oil and urge them to do a dye test- they said they would and report back no oil leak.

I have one last theory, it's relatively common during cold weather (and we've had a LOT of it) to have pcv to freeze up and lose oil (Subaru of Canada actually has a TSB and fix for this for 09 turbos). I pick the car up today thinking w/ the weather warming a freezing pcv should be a problem. I drive half way home and pull into a rest area, smoke is coming from out of the scoop- not a good sign. It smells like oil, another not so good sign. I check the dipstick and it barely is on it

I have some come get me and again call road side assistance to get the car flatbedded back to the dealer. Of course no one is in the service dept by this time, so I left a nice message for them.

A completely wasted trip (300 miles), someone had to drive 150 miles out of there way and now I'm back to square one. They will find the oil leak this go round and it will be repaired. They will be either hiring a pilot to come pick me up or my car will be flatbedded back to me

[05WRX_STi]

Another case of hard headed mechanics? I had a similar problem with my RX-7 - with the mechanics. Cost me a rebuild.. well cost them a rebuild.

[Big Sky WRX]

I visited with them not once, not twice, but three or four times- very concerned w/ a possible oil leak.

the engine mount was really a non-issue- I'd have drove the 150 miles to get it replaced (or even had them send me the part), but when my car is 1.5 quarts low and has never burned a drop of oil (and I'm like a nazi when it comes to checking fluids, air pressure, etc)- that's an issue

I'm sure they were "yeah he just saw the oil in the snow from the broken mount"- fix broken motor mount and done

I clearly got the brush off

[05WRX_STi]

I visited with them not once, not twice, but three or four times- very concerned w/ a possible oil leak.

the engine mount was really a non-issue- I'd have drove the 150 miles to get it replaced (or even had them send me the part), but when my car is 1.5 quarts low and has never burned a drop of oil (and I'm like a nazi when it comes to checking fluids, air pressure, etc)- that's an issue

I'm sure they were "yeah he just saw the oil in the snow from the broken mount"- fix broken motor mount and done

I clearly got the brush off

I'm all about flood nazisum.

Well they may be eating there words now - now that they will probably have to pay for any damages (if any) that were caused.

[09rexwagon]

That sucks BigSky. Sorry to here about your mess. Are the oem mounts known to be weak or was yours just a fluke?

Does the lower dot to upper dot represent 1qt in our engines?

I'm a fluid nazi too. But the dipstick on this engine seems highly variable in readings. Since it bends into the pan, it doesn't give a nice clean straight line across the dipstick. Sometimes it gives an exaggerated 'U' so I don't know if the top of the 'U' is where the oil level is or the bottom of the 'U' (the distance between the top and bottom might be 1/4"-1/3". In my wifes Accord, the dipstick goes straight into the sump so the oil line is perfectly straight and easy to read. Anyway, mine doesn't seem to be consuming oil, but I'm changing the oil pretty frequently while it's still young . Might pull the TMIC to check for residue this weekend.

You know, maybe I'm not a fluid nazi. I just checked my coolant overflow reservoir. The engine is dead cold and it was a bit below LOW. I really have never noted the level since I bought the car (7500 miles on it). What is your coolant level when the car has been off for 8+ hours?

How can coolant be 'consumed' other than via a leaking HG or a leak (which I don't see anywhere). I haven't noticed white smoke from the tailpipe or oil in the coolant.

[Big Sky WRX]

they starting going to liquid mounts in 06 or 07- I know that a fair number of STi's were having problems w/ the mounts (maybe they've changed them since then???). I know some dealerships were even swapping Grp N mounts instead of re-ordering liquid mounts.

if I have another one go- I would say not a fluke

update on my car- why lo and behold yes there is indeed a oil leak on the passenger side after all headgasket

they said the car was only down a little over a quart- I don't have the owners manual here, but it's possible dot to dot is a quart

[09rexwagon]

Ok, the FSM says 1L dot to dot (1.1qt)

[Big Sky WRX]

good to know- thanks

[camino cielo]

Every car I'e come across in my...hrm...many, many yrs of ownership (and working on) is 1 liter between min and max lines.

[Saj5DJ]

let me get the rules set straight (sounds like they are different than ours) first- I can take a better stab at an answer

you can swap dampers? (we can do this)
you can swap springs? (we can't do this)
you can swap front and rear sway bars? (front only)
you can or can't run R comps? (we can run R comps)
rule on wheels?
anything else suspension/tire/wheel wise that is allowed?

Mike

Heh, yeah I posted this then disappeared for months.

Anyways. I was a tad incorrect in my earlier rules posting about the extinguisher freeing up a point. Adding it only allows a point toward other weight reduction (removal of rear seat or a light weight battery basically). Not worth the trouble at my level.

Basically then, I get two points.

R-Comps would be both spent

Swaybar front and rear would be one each

Dampers are free, but have to match OEM fit.

I'm think R-Comps with standard sways would be a bit on the silly side for a rookie driver. I'm thinking I'd rather spend the points getting a better balance than outright grip. Even if it IS slightly less competitive I'd have more fun anyway.

I know it's back there somewhere, but what did you do for brake pads? Considering EBC Reds myself for DD and auto-x duty.

Sorry to hear about your head gasket and motor mount problems. You had an engine replaced, right? Reckon it anything to do with the workmanship on the swap?

[Big Sky WRX]

sways the car would feel better (R comps the car would be faster )

I went w/ the Porterfield 4S pads f/r- I've been impressed w/ them- you'd never know I was on aftermarket pads daily driving- very quiet and well behaved, but clearly better bite than oe

btw finally got my car back today

I think the motor mount and head gasket going are linked- can't prove it, but I think the mount went first and w/ the engine canted to the passenger side it somehow stressed things enough that the gasket wasn't sealing properly

all good now

[mudferret]

But the dipstick on this engine seems highly variable in readings.

A pain in the ass at times for sure. It took me me some experimenting but I found a method that ensures repeatability. I'm not so interested in getting the exact oil level, but wanted to ensure I'm conducting the test such that there's none of those ridiculous variations between them. As long as I stick to the same method I can see any actual variations in level.

Fool around with the speed you pull the stick out with etc... That said I'll likely cross hatch the reading area of my dipstick at some point when I'm really, really desparate for something to do.

[Big Sky WRX]

"the" season is nearing

my Hoosier stack was getting a little low, but just found a couple of used ones to add to the stack- should be good for another season

w/ the 245's on oe offset wheels I was getting some minor rubbing inboard on the struts/shocks, so I'm going to add 5mm to the spacers to the front and 2mm spacers to the rear- this should alleviate any rubbing- the 5mm spacer require longer studs (which come w/ the H&R kit), the 2mm ones should be fine w/ the oe studs

I'm currently running a 24/26 mm WL front bar, I've got a custom 29 mm bar that has yet to be mounted, so I'll probably give it a go sometime this season

this year they are going to run a three event (each two days) state challenge- each event is run by a different region- one in June, one in July and one in August- should be pretty fun

[fahr_side]

Hate to gravedig but I'm about to replicate this setup and have a few questions...

What settings are you using on your Konis now that you've been running it for a while? Have your impressions changed any since you fitted them?

I have some takeoff '08 STi springs and wonder how would the LGT Konis do with them. I know the front will be lower by 10mm and the rear unchanged if I follow your lead and cut the rear circlip groove at 15mm up. Since the rears need a groove cut to move the perch, what would you do... cut at 15mm up to keep the same rear height or 5mm up to even out the drop?
I'm not autox'ing the car so I am free of these sort of restrictions.
From your posts, the rear stroke and shock body is shorter on the LGT Konis than the stockers by an inch and I note you mention the shorter body would improve the bump travel a little on lowered cars. What would you do given the choice; Lower the front only and enjoy whatever advantage the STi has with it's slightly raked stance, or lower evenly front and rear and enjoy the improved bump travel in back? Split the difference and raise the rear circlip (say) 10mm?

[Big Sky WRX]

no grave dig I haven't posted in here in awhile as the season hasn't gotten under way yet

for daily driving I'm running full soft front/rear- the damping even at full soft is much better than oe, for autox I run 1.25 turns from full soft front and one full turn rear

Koni damping is very good (this is my third car that I've run w/ Koni's) and I'm still very satisfied w/ it

the front STi springs do lower ~ 15mm (they utilize a higher spring perch), I'd have a groove cut at 10mm below the one that is already in the shock, that gives you a very slightly raked ride height- most folks like to lower the front slightly more than the rear (the front having higher cut wheel wells)

if a guy happens to haul heavy stuff w/ his car, you could cut a second groove above the original to prevent sag

no sure how close they can cut the grooves (safely), but maybe two below and one above- that would give a guy several options