How to operate safely with a manual boost controller
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This is a discussion on How to operate safely with a manual boost controller within the Engine Performance forums, part of the Tutorials & DIY category; Hipswnger2 pm'd me earlier tonight asking about manual boost controllers, and I replied only to find out his mailbox was ...

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    Registered User qoncept's Avatar
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    How to operate safely with a manual boost controller

    Hipswnger2 pm'd me earlier tonight asking about manual boost controllers, and I replied only to find out his mailbox was full. This is information that is certainly available elsewhere, but there is a lot of misinformation and ugly threads to have to search through to find it. So, without further adieu...

    The biggest issue is heat (which will cause the cat in the up pipe problem Hipswnger2 mentioned) but you need to understand why it happens and how to prevent it.

    Your ECU is set for a certain amount of boost and fuel at different throttle positions. Say you have the throttle pressed 50% -- it'll boost something like 7psi with the stock boost solenoid. You put in an MBC and it'll allow full boost any time the turbo is capable of pushing that much air -- and your ECU isn't expecting it. So you're getting X amount of air in your cylinder, while it's only adding enough fuel for Y amount of air.

    This results in a lean situation (more air, less fuel). Running lean equals hot exhaust gasses, and potentially blown piston rings or similar problems. It doesn't matter if you only have your MBC set to 13.5psi, equal to stock -- it's still going to boost higher at lower throttle positions than the ECU is prepared to deal with, and thus cause high temperatures.

    To prevent it, you can do a couple things. Get a fueling computer (which is by no means perfect, but another topic of discussion entirely), UTEC or other management (which obvously costs more than you're looking to spend since you're running an MBC), or change your driving habits a bit and get used to watching your boost gauge. That's what I do (for now). Since the problem will generally be when you have the gas pedal partially pushed, whenever you're doing that, look at your boost gauge and make sure it's not peaking out. I generally try to stay under 7psi unless I'm giving it full throttle.

    As long as you understand and follow all this you should be good to go.

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    Registered User NJSTi13's Avatar
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    good write up, much more concise than other threads on the subject...
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    ECU W/ manual boost controler

    Is it possible and safer to run an ecu such as the access port tuner or any other engine mapping system along side a manual boost controler?

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    Quote Originally Posted by rallyvt88 View Post
    Is it possible and safer to run an ecu such as the access port tuner or any other engine mapping system along side a manual boost controler?
    You will not want to run the BC with the AP as the AP controls boost. With the proper tuning it is my understanding that you can run a BC with Hyra, utec, and possible a protune.
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    Would this mean that I just need to take off the MC and re connect the vaccum lines of I got an AP tunner?

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    Yes, if you plan on getting the AP read what the OTS maps need to work properly. When you put the stock BCS back on make sure you put the restrictor pill back in.
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    Is there any sense in trying to get a hold of one of the old AP's being that I have an 02 WRX? Or will waiting for the new one be a wise choice? And would you recomend getting an AP instead of running a MBC for reliability and for engine longevity? Thanks for all of your help.

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    Registered User D0WNxSH1FT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rallyvt88 View Post
    Is there any sense in trying to get a hold of one of the old AP's being that I have an 02 WRX? Or will waiting for the new one be a wise choice? And would you recomend getting an AP instead of running a MBC for reliability and for engine longevity? Thanks for all of your help.
    The AP controls boost, you do not need a MBC for any reason. Just get the old AP as the maps arent changing just the size of the device.
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    Either Ap would work fine, if you buy a V1 (I guess they'll use v1 or v2 to tell the difference) then make sure the previous owner has unmarried it as it's probaly used. If it's a new unit (v2) then you can use that also. There should be hardly any difference if you are just wanting to run a STG 2 OTS map.

    The AP will be muc better long run for relibailty and longevity of the motor as it alters the fuel/timing/boost parameters.
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