STi intercooler sprayer - Page 9
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This is a discussion on STi intercooler sprayer within the Engine Performance forums, part of the Tutorials & DIY category; so all I will need is thr rear washer pump correct. I have found a website that has the rear ...

  1. #121
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    so all I will need is thr rear washer pump correct. I have found a website that has the rear pump as well as the regular one. http://www.drivewire.com/subaruparts...ieldwiper.html If the rear pump on this site is the one I need then I am going to order me up one. I have one more question. Is the rear pump enough to run 2 nozzles?

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  3. #122
    Registered User blarg's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 06-wrx
    so all I will need is thr rear washer pump correct. I have found a website that has the rear pump as well as the regular one. http://www.drivewire.com/subaruparts...ieldwiper.html If the rear pump on this site is the one I need then I am going to order me up one. I have one more question. Is the rear pump enough to run 2 nozzles?
    that's what the OEM system uses...the pumps are the same...they're just different colors so you don't get confused. The front one runs 2 nozzles just fine, and I'm not sure how many spray nozzles the OEM IC sprayer runs, but I'm guessing you'll be fine.
    ScoobyDMC #009 - making dirty jokes since before you were making dirty diapers.
    Quote Originally Posted by Blarg
    go f*** yourself

  4. #123
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    I wonder why they charge double the price for the front one.

  5. #124
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    Quote Originally Posted by 06-wrx
    I wonder why they charge double the price for the front one.


    no idea. maybe I'm wrong.
    ScoobyDMC #009 - making dirty jokes since before you were making dirty diapers.
    Quote Originally Posted by Blarg
    go f*** yourself

  6. #125
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    Is a check valve a much needed item?

    OEM check valve (86634AG010)

  7. #126
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    The electrical plug, It's a different configuration on the rear pump that the front pump. That seems to be the only difference.
    '02 WRX 4EAT, 311,000KMs/194,500Miles, Sold. Best car I ever had. '09 STi stage 1, hope this one will be good too...

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    ..
    Last edited by wvinfernovw; 07-16-2006 at 11:33 AM.

  9. #128
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    Question

    Quote Originally Posted by Big Sky WRX
    I just found out from another fellow who did this last night, there is evidently a much easier way- the white/green wire has power- you can leave it be, the black blue you can leave be at the plug in as well. No need to cut at the plug in at all!

    No need to run a wire into the cabin either. What you'll have to do is pull the front piece off the steering column and near the ignition you'll find the blue/black (same one as at the plug end), cut this wire and expose ~ 18" or so to reach the switch. Put a connector on the end of this and put it on at the manual trigger.

    The illumnation/ground remains the same.

    This makes things quite a bit easier.

    Big Sky
    I tired this and ended up blowing the illimination fuse?.. i will next try to connect the blue/black wire to the yellow/black wire together underneath the steering column, then just lead the white/green wire (2nd plug) through the cabinet to the manual trigger button

  10. #129
    Moderating on the run! Big Sky WRX's Avatar
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    my guess is the wiring is not remaining the same across the years- guy will have to be careful
    "Simplify and add lightness." - Colin Chapman

  11. #130
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    hmm, guess i have to put this mod on pause for now until i can do some more research, the oem pump isnt getting power

  12. #131
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    So, I've been thinking about this for awhile. How much of a difference does the sprayer actually make? can you actuall feel the difference?
    Dave (aka Scuba Steve)

  13. #132
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scuba Steve
    So, I've been thinking about this for awhile. How much of a difference does the sprayer actually make? can you actuall feel the difference?
    bigger TMIC makes more difference.

    After I went to a bigger TMIC, I hardly ever needed it. Even on a hot day in traffic. My temps got so much better the sprayer became a back burner project and I never quite finihsed it.

    a big bar-and-plate TMIC will drop your charge temp a good 40 degrees, and will cool down in 30-40 seconds if you start moving.
    ScoobyDMC #009 - making dirty jokes since before you were making dirty diapers.
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    go f*** yourself

  14. #133
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    ^ I'm currently running stg2 cobb and dont' want to decrease boost levels. you think and STi IC would benefit me better?

    or am I totally off base...
    Dave (aka Scuba Steve)

  15. #134
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scuba Steve
    ^ I'm currently running stg2 cobb and dont' want to decrease boost levels. you think and STi IC would benefit me better?

    or am I totally off base...
    the STi intercooler is still a tube-and-fin design....not as efficient.

    You can buy a bar-and-plate IC on ebay for less money than the STi one. I ran the eBay TMIC (about $300) for over a year on my Cobb stage 2 without problems. I did have a bit of hesitation when the car was cold for a day or two while the ECU re-learned (I didn't reset), but it was fine. I didn't gain any power, since I ran the same map, but the cooling properties of the bigger TMIC were VERY noticable. I actually had temp probes in the intercooler (you may have seen my SPA gauge install...shows air temp in and out of the IC) and the eBay IC worked. In most cases I was running about 30 degrees cooler air charge coming out of the IC than with the stock IC....I never saw FULL head soak, but when the air charge climbed into tripple digits (rare) and the car started moving again, it was usually down into ambient in less then a minute. Of course if its 120 degrees outside...then you're screwed.

    The bar-and-plate IC is MUCH more solid...the piece weighs about 25 pounds! and you don't have to worry about rocks getting into it and bending fins...that thing is damn near bulletproof...if you have gutter sceen on your scoop protecting the IC, you can pull it off and get even more air flow...you WILL need a bigger scoop for the ebay TMIC, and you WILL have to remove the air splitter....but the IC is so big, it will take up the WHOLE scoop and make a decent seal by itself. You will also need to fab an bracket extension for the passanger's side. Not really hard. Just take a piece of metal about 4" long, drill 2 holes in it, bolt one end to the stock bracket, and the other end to the IC.

    When you install, make sure you clear the A/C hard line on the firewall...you can bend the brackets forward/down as needed to locate the IC where you want it.
    Last edited by blarg; 07-28-2006 at 08:04 AM.
    ScoobyDMC #009 - making dirty jokes since before you were making dirty diapers.
    Quote Originally Posted by Blarg
    go f*** yourself

  16. #135
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    Wink

    Quote Originally Posted by Big Sky WRX
    I just found out from another fellow who did this last night, there is evidently a much easier way- the white/green wire has power- you can leave it be, the black blue you can leave be at the plug in as well. No need to cut at the plug in at all!

    No need to run a wire into the cabin either. What you'll have to do is pull the front piece off the steering column and near the ignition you'll find the blue/black (same one as at the plug end), cut this wire and expose ~ 18" or so to reach the switch. Put a connector on the end of this and put it on at the manual trigger.

    The illumnation/ground remains the same.

    This makes things quite a bit easier.

    Big Sky


    The instructions above works great, finally got it, i blew the fuse the first time around when i tried it on my own and forgot the replace the fuse plug, a circuit tester/volt ohm meter was very useful!!

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