Uppipe, Downpipe, Muffler INSTALL GUIDE! - Page 4
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This is a discussion on Uppipe, Downpipe, Muffler INSTALL GUIDE! within the Engine Performance forums, part of the Tutorials & DIY category; Originally posted by tacomaboy138 awesome...I cannot wait for my warranty period to subside. tubbytreats - great write up and pics. ...

  1. #46
    Registered User Roamin'Coyote's Avatar
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    Originally posted by tacomaboy138
    awesome...I cannot wait for my warranty period to subside.
    tubbytreats - great write up and pics. Might want to include the midpipe donut gasket in the items needed - mine was frozen/rusted onto the catpipe. So, I "had" to run my 3rd cat. I had an experienced wrench do the majority of the work, but I just read the write up to put words to what we were doing.

    BAAAHHHH!!! Do it, do it now! I had my STi UP/monster pnp'd TD04/Scoobysport TBE done this past Saturday for my baby's 16th month birthday @ 23,000 miles. The difference is amazing. I can't wait to get my UTEC properly mapped and put in the 3rd cat delete - just for kicks. I'll probably run the 3rd cat most of the time (emissions testing). But, spool up was sooner, midrange was much stronger, and a little on the top. Lots of audible changes like spooling noises, little pops and crackles, and the rumble. I do have an odd fluttering noise during part throttle lift off. Not sure what that is, but it's too cold to be driving around with the windows down.

    Thanks tt!
    -Wylie
    Last edited by Roamin'Coyote; 12-15-2003 at 07:52 PM.

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  3. #47
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    Originally posted by tubbytreats
    ...

    6. Unbolt the factory exhaust manifold from the (2) header pipes. (ONLY DO IF YOU HAVE THE SUBYDUDE GASKET SET OR KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING!) This will allow you to get at the uppipe better and with more room to work. [/B]
    Is there any way to get around this step? I have the two bolts of the upippe unbolted from the exhaust manifold and the bolts from the turbo to the uppipe are ubolted but the uppipe barely moves. Any other ways of getting the uppipe out? The reason I ask is because the bolts on the exhaust manifold are extremely hard to get off.

    Suggestions?

  4. #48
    Registered User tubbytreats's Avatar
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    I found that the only thing that worked was ALOT of WD-40 or Liquid Wrench. Soak it in several layers and work the nut with your socket wrench as much as possible. It WILL come off and makes the install so much easier!

    2002 WRX Mods:
    AP Stage2/93, ScoobySport Up, Dp, & Muffler, SS AutoChrome TMIC, Hawker PC680T Battery, Injen CAI, ACT Stage2 Clutch, Gruppe-S 13.8lb Flywheel, Mobil1 and Redline oil, NGK BKR7EIX plugs, Goodridge SS Lines, Motul RBF600, Hawk HPS pads, 35% 3M tint, Koji Headlight Mod, SilverStar Bulbs, Blaupunkt MP3000 headunit, Infinity BassLink Sub, Kenwood KFC-1689ie speakers (6.5"F / 5.25"R), Rota Downshift (Black), Yokohama AVS ES100 (225/45/17)

  5. #49
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    Thanks for the tutorial!

    21 hours later and I am finally done! (The first time I have ever worked on a car. )

    I highly advise AGAINST removing the exhaust manifold! (One broken bolt in the exhaust manifold... )

    All you have to do is remove in the engine mount bolt and jack the engine up using a small wooden block on the exhaust manifold. Keep lifting it up until the top of the uppipe clears the bottom of the turbo just enough to wiggle the uppipe loose. Rotate the uppipe so that it can be pulled out of the downpipe side.

  6. #50
    Registered User ShotgunTC88's Avatar
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    Originally posted by scoolbuzz
    Thanks for the tutorial!

    21 hours later and I am finally done! (The first time I have ever worked on a car. )

    I highly advise AGAINST removing the exhaust manifold! (One broken bolt in the exhaust manifold... )

    All you have to do is remove in the engine mount bolt and jack the engine up using a small wooden block on the exhaust manifold. Keep lifting it up until the top of the uppipe clears the bottom of the turbo just enough to wiggle the uppipe loose. Rotate the uppipe so that it can be pulled out of the downpipe side.
    Hey man, Congrats!!

    Look at the bright side of your new found mech. skills!

    Now you can tackle just about anything on the ol, Rex!!

    .02
    Shotgun

  7. #51
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    Hey, I have to say that exhaust manifold is evil. I started the job today at 11am, and I am not finished. When I was trying to break one of the nuts free on the exhaust manifold, it snapped free and my hand slammed into a thin sheet of metal, taking a sizable flap of skin off my pinky knuckle. It was deep, and it bled like crazy. Well, 2 hours, local anesthetic, and 4 stitches later I was back to work on it (with two friends to help!). We have run into a few snags which are-

    1) the downpipe heat sheilds. Did you get these things back on at all or what? the bellmouth design will not fit the top heat shield, we would have to attack it with a dremel to get it back on. The bottom might fit, but there are less mounting points.

    2) there is a small rubber hose coming out of the firewall that currently rests on the new downpipe. I'm thinking this is bad. What did you do to prevent this thing from melting in a hurry?

    Besides that, the work is slow but steady and so far it has been a journey of discovery. Those crazy nuts (the black ones) cost $4.55 retail from a subaru dealership but all mine (with 38,000 miles) look brand new still. Can't wait to hear the sound and feel the power. Both of my friends, who own 4x4s, are wishing they had a nice car to work on. With WD-40 nothing has posed a problem (besides wrench angles)

  8. #52
    Registered User Oneliner's Avatar
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    2) there is a small rubber hose coming out of the firewall that currently rests on the new downpipe. I'm thinking this is bad. What did you do to prevent this thing from melting in a hurry?
    I have noticed this too. The hose in my car doesn't rest on the DP but it's damn close! So far I can't tell any signs of melting, or scaring on the hose. is this a danger area?
    2003 Sedona Red WRX

  9. #53
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    Originally posted by keystah
    Hey, I have to say that exhaust manifold is evil. I started the job today at 11am, and I am not finished. When I was trying to break one of the nuts free on the exhaust manifold, it snapped free and my hand slammed into a thin sheet of metal, taking a sizable flap of skin off my pinky knuckle. It was deep, and it bled like crazy. Well, 2 hours, local anesthetic, and 4 stitches later I was back to work on it (with two friends to help!). We have run into a few snags which are-

    1) the downpipe heat sheilds. Did you get these things back on at all or what? the bellmouth design will not fit the top heat shield, we would have to attack it with a dremel to get it back on. The bottom might fit, but there are less mounting points.

    2) there is a small rubber hose coming out of the firewall that currently rests on the new downpipe. I'm thinking this is bad. What did you do to prevent this thing from melting in a hurry?

    Besides that, the work is slow but steady and so far it has been a journey of discovery. Those crazy nuts (the black ones) cost $4.55 retail from a subaru dealership but all mine (with 38,000 miles) look brand new still. Can't wait to hear the sound and feel the power. Both of my friends, who own 4x4s, are wishing they had a nice car to work on. With WD-40 nothing has posed a problem (besides wrench angles)
    1) You can put the top part back on (the part with the X over the hand). Use a jigsaw with a metal cutting blade. Cut it like the attached file.

    2) For the rubber hose got to Checkers and buy some 3/4" Split Loom. Cut a piece of it off (the split loom) and disconnect that rubber piece on your car from the bracket. Put the loom around the rubber piece and bend the rubber piece a little so it rests on the part of the frame oposite the side of the downpipe.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails im000361.jpg  

  10. #54
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    Rubber hose by downpipe

    The camera angle is bad, but it is not touching the pipe. It is within a centimeter though! I don't know how heat resistant it is but there is some close to the manifolds on the engine and it has burnt yet so I will continue to monitor it. It is called Split Loom. Buy it at Checkers.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails im000372.jpg  

  11. #55
    Registered User tubbytreats's Avatar
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    These are good posts! Thanks for sharing!

    2002 WRX Mods:
    AP Stage2/93, ScoobySport Up, Dp, & Muffler, SS AutoChrome TMIC, Hawker PC680T Battery, Injen CAI, ACT Stage2 Clutch, Gruppe-S 13.8lb Flywheel, Mobil1 and Redline oil, NGK BKR7EIX plugs, Goodridge SS Lines, Motul RBF600, Hawk HPS pads, 35% 3M tint, Koji Headlight Mod, SilverStar Bulbs, Blaupunkt MP3000 headunit, Infinity BassLink Sub, Kenwood KFC-1689ie speakers (6.5"F / 5.25"R), Rota Downshift (Black), Yokohama AVS ES100 (225/45/17)

  12. #56
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    Thanks a bunch guys. I did a search after I posted and found out about the upper heat sheild. As far as that hose goes, We'll try the split loom and see how that works out, I might also ask the auto parts place if they have any insulating material...

    I think my exhaust system is one of the most expensive if you count the $226 in medical bills I had from the stitches I had to get on my pinky knuckle.

    Today all we need to do is cut the heat sheild , tighten up the turbo to dp bolts, install heatsheild, attach the midpipe and sensor, throw up the "cat-back" attach the hangars and the 2 spring bolts.... should be like 1 hour or so. Oh yes and fix that rubber hose. I'll see if I can come up w/ something exotic...

    btw scoolbuzz do you live in boulder? You should come to a denver meet sometime...I'd like to see your car...
    Last edited by keystah; 01-29-2004 at 04:42 AM.

  13. #57
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    No problem tubby! It is the least I can do because you did the rest of the work!

    Keystah - Regarding the split loom: I went to Checker's, Autozone, Lowe's and Pepboy's and that was what I found to withstand the heat off the dp. You may try an exhaust leak patch too. I bought one just in case the plastic melts.

    While you are at Checker's or Autozone pickup some Mechanix gloves! $20 and they work REALLY good. My hands are pretty, oh so pretty.

    Another tip:

    If you hear a rattling on your exhaust when you install the downpipe it may be because your stock catback is pulled toward the front of the car because the DP isn't as long. I found the back of the muffler on the drivers side to be the part that was touching a little metal bar on the car. I had to adjust the exhaust hangers in order to temporarily avoid it the sound. The problem is that they retract to their normal positions after about two days of driving. You can loosen the bolts that connect the dp to the stock catback but you will have an exhaust leak. This will relieve the tension on the hangers and the muffler we move closer to its original location.

  14. #58
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    Hey schoolbuzz, thanks for the info, please read this thread:

    http://www.clubwrx.net/forums/showth...465#post501465

    I am having DP fitment issues, I can't get the boltholes to align properly and have a DP to MP exhaust leak. Everything else is done, however, and it sounds wicked bad at idle even with that nasty exhaust leak. Any ideas?

  15. #59
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    Originally posted by keystah
    Hey schoolbuzz, thanks for the info, please read this thread:

    http://www.clubwrx.net/forums/showth...465#post501465

    I am having DP fitment issues, I can't get the boltholes to align properly and have a DP to MP exhaust leak. Everything else is done, however, and it sounds wicked bad at idle even with that nasty exhaust leak. Any ideas?
    They won't line up? Do you have the dp that connects to the midpipe or the catback? I have the Invidia one and I am pretty sure it connects to the catback.

  16. #60
    Registered User tubbytreats's Avatar
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    He has ScoobySport, and their downpipe is a simple downpipe to downpipe replacement. It connects to the stock midpipe with the same bolts as stock.

    I didn't have any fitment issues. Double check your exhaust hanger bracket near the midpipe/downpipe. Make sure you "UNbolt" it and connect the pipes. THEN attempt to hang the exhaust from that hanger once it's all connected.

    2002 WRX Mods:
    AP Stage2/93, ScoobySport Up, Dp, & Muffler, SS AutoChrome TMIC, Hawker PC680T Battery, Injen CAI, ACT Stage2 Clutch, Gruppe-S 13.8lb Flywheel, Mobil1 and Redline oil, NGK BKR7EIX plugs, Goodridge SS Lines, Motul RBF600, Hawk HPS pads, 35% 3M tint, Koji Headlight Mod, SilverStar Bulbs, Blaupunkt MP3000 headunit, Infinity BassLink Sub, Kenwood KFC-1689ie speakers (6.5"F / 5.25"R), Rota Downshift (Black), Yokohama AVS ES100 (225/45/17)

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