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This is a discussion on DYI: Pink injectors on 02-03 WRX within the Engine Performance forums, part of the Tutorials & DIY category; shouldnt you turn your key to "on" to prime the injectors to make sure they are functioning? i remember reading ...

  1. #16
    Registered User CertainPhate's Avatar
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    shouldnt you turn your key to "on" to prime the injectors to make sure they are functioning? i remember reading something like that. if someone could fill in that part id be happy!
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  3. #17
    Is in Love With the Admins Here 20WRX04's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CertainPhate View Post
    shouldnt you turn your key to "on" to prime the injectors to make sure they are functioning? i remember reading something like that. if someone could fill in that part id be happy!
    If you turn it to the "on" position, you're only causing the fuel pump to run for a second. I don't believe you could gather any injector info by just doing that. I pulled inside fuse #11 (ignition). I turned the motor over 6-8 times, cranking it for 4-5 seconds each time. This causes the new turbo to be primed with oil & you can check the injectors for any fuel leakage since I replaced them at the same time. I did the engine cranking 3 times, then checked the injector areas for any fuel smell. I didn't smell anything so I did it a few more times. After that I replaced the fuse & she started right up! Make sure you load the correct map you will be running first though.
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    Registered User jma_1000's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 20WRX04 View Post
    If you turn it to the "on" position, you're only causing the fuel pump to run for a second. I don't believe you could gather any injector info by just doing that. I pulled inside fuse #11 (ignition). I turned the motor over 6-8 times, cranking it for 4-5 seconds each time. This causes the new turbo to be primed with oil & you can check the injectors for any fuel leakage since I replaced them at the same time. I did the engine cranking 3 times, then checked the injector areas for any fuel smell. I didn't smell anything so I did it a few more times. After that I replaced the fuse & she started right up! Make sure you load the correct map you will be running first though.
    definitely use a safe map, as stated above. well, a safe map if youre running large injectors and dont have a map to match them already. just need something to get you to your tuner w/o fouling everything up.
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  5. #19
    Wrinklechops
    What sort of performance upgrade/boost did you notice? Any? I want to get the Deatchwerks Injectors for my regular WRX and I am not sure if it's worth the $? I don't have many other upgrades (Apex'i grounding, Greddy exhaust, Blitz TT, Perrin lightweight crank pulley, etc)... Should I not waste my time with this upgrade until I've put some more $ into other areas of the car (i.e. handling, COBB software, etc)?

  6. #20
    Is in Love With the Admins Here 20WRX04's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lundholm08 View Post
    What sort of performance upgrade/boost did you notice? Any? I want to get the Deatchwerks Injectors for my regular WRX and I am not sure if it's worth the $? I don't have many other upgrades (Apex'i grounding, Greddy exhaust, Blitz TT, Perrin lightweight crank pulley, etc)... Should I not waste my time with this upgrade until I've put some more $ into other areas of the car (i.e. handling, COBB software, etc)?
    Higher flowing injectors are usually only needed for turbo upgrades. Do it when you decide what turbo you want to upgrade to down the road. Depending on what turbo you get will determine what flow rate you'll need. You will need some sort of engine management whenever you replace the downpipe or get bigger turbo/injectors. I would look into replacing your uppipe with a catless version for a cheap upgrade that helps you to build boost about 500 rpms sooner. Check out these links for more info.
    Injector sizing chart
    I highly suggest reading most of the links found here. Enjoy.
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  7. #21
    Wrinklechops
    Quote Originally Posted by 20WRX04 View Post
    Higher flowing injectors are usually only needed for turbo upgrades. Do it when you decide what turbo you want to upgrade to down the road. Depending on what turbo you get will determine what flow rate you'll need. You will need some sort of engine management whenever you replace the downpipe or get bigger turbo/injectors. I would look into replacing your uppipe with a catless version for a cheap upgrade that helps you to build boost about 500 rpms sooner. Check out these links for more info.
    Injector sizing chart
    I highly suggest reading most of the links found here. Enjoy.
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    Thank you very much.

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    going to attempt this install along with plugs, exhaust manifold, upipe, turbo and ecbs in about a week. lets hope i can get it all done in 1 day.

  9. #23
    Wrinklechops
    Quote Originally Posted by Mekks View Post
    going to attempt this install along with plugs, exhaust manifold, upipe, turbo and ecbs in about a week. lets hope i can get it all done in 1 day.
    What did you do man, win the lottery? LOL that sounds like a bunch of fun stuff to put on. What turbo you going with? What kind of engine management you running for all this stuff? And what EBCS did you go with?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Wrinklechops View Post
    What did you do man, win the lottery? LOL that sounds like a bunch of fun stuff to put on. What turbo you going with? What kind of engine management you running for all this stuff? And what EBCS did you go with?
    ha! well i started out doing TBE and Upipe but once i got in there i noticed the stock exhaust manifold was pretty rusted and starting to crack. so i decided to wait on the upipe install untill i could replace the mani.

    then i found a good deal on a used 13k mile vf34 so i said screw it! bought some sti pink injectors, the vf34, a ebay tmic, grimspeed p&p stock manifold/crosspipe and some 1 step colder plugs. i also went with the grimspeed ecbs.

    my girl wants to kill me. shes so mad i just keep spending money on this car LOL!

    the stock tdo4 on my engine has 115k miles and i think is on its way out.

    o yea. ive had the cobb ap v2 for awhile but im thinking about selling it once i can find a decent pro tunner around me. atm im usein clark e-tunes.

  11. #25
    Wrinklechops
    Quote Originally Posted by Mekks View Post
    ha! well i started out doing TBE and Upipe but once i got in there i noticed the stock exhaust manifold was pretty rusted and starting to crack. so i decided to wait on the upipe install untill i could replace the mani.

    then i found a good deal on a used 13k mile vf34 so i said screw it! bought some sti pink injectors, the vf34, a ebay tmic, grimspeed p&p stock manifold/crosspipe and some 1 step colder plugs. i also went with the grimspeed ecbs.

    my girl wants to kill me. shes so mad i just keep spending money on this car LOL!

    the stock tdo4 on my engine has 115k miles and i think is on its way out.

    o yea. ive had the cobb ap v2 for awhile but im thinking about selling it once i can find a decent pro tunner around me. atm im usein clark e-tunes.

    Man, that's awesome and sounds like fun to do all at once. You're going to be put back in your seat compared to stock.

    That's a really good idea to get a Pro-Tune soon. You'll get better/safer/more power and smoothness, and you can sell that AP for some cash. I never understood paying $700 for an AP

  12. #26
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    thats nothing. im doing all of this and then some when im ready, just need money for the tune beforehand. i got 18G turbo, 750's, new header, EWG up-pipe, 38MM EWG (w/1 bar spring), and NGK 1-step plugs to throw in my car. it should be cake tho, i have a good friend handy whose rex has been 20G'd for a while now, and 3-4 friends who are all mechanics. gladly, i have a TXS fmic on my car already. i hope to do this by the end of the month. fingers are crossed lol.
    keeping it as is til a 2011 is in the driveway

  13. #27
    Registered User 2:43AM's Avatar
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    Bumpin' this one for a question. Must a new "donut" grommet be used when replacing the injectors? The "donut" grommet is at the nozzle end of the injector. It can be seen on one of the "pinks" in the picture that is half pink!

    I imagine that these frequently get stuck in the hole, so pulling them out may be a pain.

  14. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2:43AM View Post
    Bumpin' this one for a question. Must a new "donut" grommet be used when replacing the injectors? The "donut" grommet is at the nozzle end of the injector. It can be seen on one of the "pinks" in the picture that is half pink!

    I imagine that these frequently get stuck in the hole, so pulling them out may be a pain.
    Any time you pull injectors, or replace them for that matter, you should be purchasing new gaskets. They can easily become worn and cracked or even mishaped and leak, don't take the chance, just order new ones.
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  15. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Anub1s View Post
    Any time you pull injectors, or replace them for that matter, you should be purchasing new gaskets. They can easily become worn and cracked or even mishaped and leak, don't take the chance, just order new ones.
    I've read that it would be OK to reuse the old ones. However, I agree that replacing them would be best for good measure. The donut gasket I described is technically called the injector insulator, per the shop manual. I figure these couldn't cost more than a couple bucks at the Subie dealer. Thanks.

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    hey

    What is the name of the cover you removed to reach the 10mm bolt. I need a replacement and dont know the name. Thanks!

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