Diy Big 3 and Grounding kit with pics
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This is a discussion on Diy Big 3 and Grounding kit with pics within the Engine Performance forums, part of the Tutorials & DIY category; This is my first Diy thread let me know what you think. I read some of the Big 3 and ...

  1. #1
    Registered User irvin787878's Avatar
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    Diy Big 3 and Grounding kit with pics

    This is my first Diy thread let me know what you think.

    I read some of the Big 3 and grounding kit threads. I decided to put them together and do mine own Diy thread.
    I bought all the wire, terminals, fuse holder, and fuse from http://www.knukonceptz.com There stuff is really nice,but you can get it from any car audio store.
    The rest of the items I didnt have I got from Homedepot.

    Tools:
    Wire cutters
    Terminal crimpers
    Solder Iron and Solder (optional)
    Utility knife to strip the wire
    Torque wrench
    10mm & 12mm socket & wrench
    Sandpaper

    Items I used:
    Positve & Negative battery terminal
    Fuse holder and fuse I used 120 amp
    15ft black 4 gauge wire
    20ft blue 4 gauge wire shown but you only need about 5ft
    16 4 gauge ring terminals
    Shrink tube
    Zip ties
    Dielectric grease

    Cut wire lengths:
    1x 7.5 in
    2x 15.0 in
    1x 11.0 in
    2x 12.0 in
    1x 20.75 in
    1x 18.0 in

    Location of grounding points and lenght of wire used, but test fit your wires to be sure:
    Battery to driverside fender near battery 7.5 in
    Battery to Intake 15.0 in
    Intake to driverside strut 15.0 in
    Intake to block where dipstick bolts on 11.0 in
    Intake to Intake 20.75 in
    Intake to alt 12.0 in
    Intake to pass side strut 18.0 in
    Back of block to firewall near pitch stop mount 12.0 in

    1. Cut wire to lenght and crimp ring terminals on. You can also solder them on like I did thats optional.
    2. Unhook battery.
    3. Remove bolts where the wires will be installed. Sand behind bolt if needed. Add alittle dielectric grease. Reinstall bolt with the wire. 10mm & 12mm sockets and wrenches needed for this.
    4. I removed the intercooler to hook up the back of block to firewall wire. Then reinstalled the intercooler.
    5. If replacing the battery terminals like I did this is when I installed them.
    6. I hooked the + wire to the alt. Then into the fuse holder. Mounted the fuse holder to the side of the battery with heavy duty velcro ( for easy maintenance). Fuse holder to battery terminal. Also added dielectric grease here also.
    7. Lastly add zip ties where needed.

    A few of these things may not be needed like the grease, soldering the terminals. Its a few things I like to do when I do electrical work. Also all the grounding points may not be needed, but I read two different threads. Between the two, all these points were in them. I put the two together and did them all.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 004.jpg   005.jpg   011.jpg   001.jpg   009.jpg  

    010.jpg   002.jpg   016.jpg  
    Last edited by irvin787878; 06-04-2011 at 04:37 AM.
    HAWK-EYE ALLIANCE #7878
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    My work in progress. http://www.clubwrx.net/forums/off-to...ld-thread.html

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    Registered User patrick4588's Avatar
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    awesome job man!

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    Registered User irvin787878's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by patrick4588 View Post
    awesome job man!
    Thanks I think it turned out nice.
    HAWK-EYE ALLIANCE #7878
    2007 WRX TR
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    Registered User MainFrame's Avatar
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    Looks pretty clean. I just threw mine together in the parking lot because it was cold and misting at the time. Main differences are mounting locations, and I ran every hot wire through split loom.

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    Moderator rage-wrx's Avatar
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    Great job.Grease & soldering should always be done IMO.
    T0ny
    2011 WRX
    2012 FXT

    The Big 2011/2012 Mod Thread


    Ooh,hang on. That is the throb of a turbocharged flat four engine. A sound which,all over the world,heralds the imminent arrival of a moron - JC.

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    Registered User irvin787878's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MainFrame View Post
    Looks pretty clean. I just threw mine together in the parking lot because it was cold and misting at the time. Main differences are mounting locations, and I ran every hot wire through split loom.
    Thanks. Split loom is a good idea for the hot wire. I just might do that, cause it wouldnt be hard to add it. What do you mean about the mounting locations? There was one more wire I thought about doing. Its the one that goes from the firewall by the pitchstop mount down to the trans. I didnt have time to do it, maybe when i get board some day.

    Quote Originally Posted by rage-wrx View Post
    Great job.Grease & soldering should always be done IMO.
    Thanks. I agree. I always do it.
    Last edited by irvin787878; 06-04-2011 at 04:12 PM.
    HAWK-EYE ALLIANCE #7878
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    Registered User MainFrame's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by irvin787878 View Post
    Thanks. Split loom is a good idea for the hot wire. I just might do that, cause it wouldnt be hard to add it. What do you mean about the mounting locations? There was one more wire I thought about doing. Its the one that goes from the firewall by the pitchstop mount down to the trans. I didnt have time to do it, maybe when i get board some day.

    I didn't do any on the strut tower tops because supposedly they're bad grounding points. I doubled up the factory block to body ground with a 4 gauge wire and also doubled up the stock battery to body ground with 4 gauge. I also doubled the alternator to battery hot wire like you did, with four gauge. Then I ran 8 gauge grounds from the back of the alternator to battery, head to intake mani, head to intake mani, intake mani to battery, intake mani to battery.


    I have also had ALL of the factory grounds cleaned up while the engine has been out and apart.

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    Registered User irvin787878's Avatar
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    I see thanks. iI didnt read that about the strut towers.
    HAWK-EYE ALLIANCE #7878
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    Registered User MainFrame's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by irvin787878 View Post
    I see thanks. iI didnt read that about the strut towers.

    Yea, I don't know the validity of that, but talking to the car audio gurus about doing the big three I was told just to beef up the OEM chassis grounds and not add additional ones.



    I'm also running a Maniac Electric 160amp high output alternator, a .5v diode voltage mod, and an Optima Yellow Top deep cycle battery. I would say the voltage mod is a good thing to do even if you're not needing a lot of amps. In my experience Subaru's run low on volts..

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    Registered User irvin787878's Avatar
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    Whats the diode mod? I am going to upgrade the OEM trans to chassis ground. Where is the motor to chassis one? I have some left over wire I could do it when I get bored. Alittle while back I bought almost everything to do a complete audio system. The only thing I needed was the boxes for the subs. Well basically money got tight. I sold everthing. The wiring I couldnt get to sell. I decided since its laying around I should put it on. When and if I get the money again to do audio upgrades. The grouding and alt wires are already done. I have noticed a difference in the idle, windows rolling up, the rpms seem alittle lower as well. I have also read that people say that their dash lights dont flicker anymore. I have seen mine flicker alittle before, but I havent driven it in the dark yet to see. I agree its worth it anyways. When I search I really dont get much on it. I am going to keep lookin tho.
    Last edited by irvin787878; 06-05-2011 at 07:52 AM.
    HAWK-EYE ALLIANCE #7878
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    Registered User MainFrame's Avatar
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    Registered User irvin787878's Avatar
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    Looks like I get the diode. Part #IN4004 from radio shack. Then solder it into the blue wire with the red stripe. Its on the back of the alt. Do I have that right?
    HAWK-EYE ALLIANCE #7878
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    Registered User MainFrame's Avatar
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    I think that's the right wire.. I've got a pic somewhere if you want me to dig for it. Remember the diode has to be facing the right way, and I used a series of shrink wrap, along with a bit of silicone to make sure it doesn't get wet.

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    Registered User irvin787878's Avatar
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    If you can dig up the pic that would be cool no rush. I believe it said the gray or silver end goes toward the alt. thanks.
    HAWK-EYE ALLIANCE #7878
    2007 WRX TR
    My work in progress. http://www.clubwrx.net/forums/off-to...ld-thread.html

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