FMIC Install/pointers
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This is a discussion on FMIC Install/pointers within the Engine Performance forums, part of the Tutorials & DIY category; Alright, I was bored, and my last write up was worthless. This one may be quite a bit more helpful ...

  1. #1
    Registered User E-Wrex's Avatar
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    FMIC Install/pointers

    Alright, I was bored, and my last write up was worthless. This one may be quite a bit more helpful to those seeking to get a FMIC and tackle the install by themselves. This tutorial is for the perrin FMIC, which I highly recommend for anyone seeking to upgrade to a relatively large turbo. Ok, first off, you will need the following tools:

    Socket set (metric)
    A fairly long extension for the sockets, like 4-inch should do it
    A breaker bar (not vitally important, but very nice for the bumper beam bolts)
    A Dremel to cut the bumper
    Some extra bumper clips/pins would be nice (they break pretty easily, and you take off like 20 of em)
    Touch up paint (Im really good at scratching my car whilst working on it, if you are more careful than me you won't need it.)
    A 12-pack of light beer (don't want anything too strong, because this is a pretty long install, and you don't want to be smashed when you take your dremel to your bumper.)
    A set of screwdrivers

    Alright, so you order up your front mount intercooler kit, it arrives at your house in three packages I believe. I went and picked mine directly up from perrin, because their distribution center is like 5 miles from my house. Anyways, the things that you'll get are:

    Your gigantic Intercooler core
    A heavy ass bumper beam
    Tubing(five parts: one for the passenger side outlet on the intercooler, one for the driver side, one to run up through the engine bay on the driver side, one to go from that to the turbo, and one to come up on the passenger side where your snorkus used to be that connects to the throttle body)
    Silicone couplers(seven of these: One large diameter for the throttle body, one tapered for the turbo, and the rest are matched sizes to the tubing, which IIRC is smaller diameter on the hot (turbo) side of the intercooler.
    A gang of clamps
    A blow off valve silicon hose and bracket/connector thingy
    Another silicon hose for use with the Coolant reservoir (its longer than the rest and about 3-4 inches in diameter)
    All the coolant tank hardware (two clamps, the tank ends, top one has three holes, bottom has two. Two plastic nipples, Two angled quick release hose connectors, one skinny plastic tube, and about three feet of colored silicon hosing)
    PCV(?) re-routing hose and connectors (replaces the metal tube on the front of the IC)
    Some trim stuff to put in the snorkus hole (tee hee)
    And a partridge in a pair tree!

    Note: You need an after market short-ram intake, I use a Perrin, and it works beautifully, but I would imagine a TurboXS or Greddy would work just fine.

    Alright, so first things first. Remove your grill using a long screw driver and your wits by detaching the little clips:


    If you have problems with this, you should take it to a shop, or think of looking into a new hobby.

    And next post.
    Last edited by E-Wrex; 11-13-2005 at 06:39 PM.
    My poor tranny!... someone sell me an aspen white 06 sti.

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  3. #2
    Registered User E-Wrex's Avatar
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    Now it's time to remove your headlights. There are two 12mm bolts on top of the headlights, and one on the inside, behind the bumper cover. You can see the little white brackets if you look where your grill used to be. I also found it easier to take off the bumper clips closest to the headlights so you can move the bumper a bit to ease the headlight pull. The headlights come out with a bit of force, there are too more little clip things that come out with a little bit of wrestling with the headlight.


    Now take out the coolant tank. There is one screw on top IIRC that needs to come out, and then the you can pull the whole thing up. The tank I speak of is this:



    Now you need to put in the new reservoir. It's fairly simple, you just use the two metal end plugs and the 6x3.5 inch piece of silcon hosing, two nipples, two angled quick release hose connectors, two pieces of hosing, and tow brackets. Put the bottom plug in (one with just two holes), and screw in one of the angle connectors facing the outside of the tube. Then drop the ~2 inch long screw with the washer on it through the other hole. Push the longer of the two clear hoses into the angled connector, and give it a bit of a pull and make sure it is secure and sealed. Look in front of the battery, and there will be a small threaded hole where the screw will go into. You need to use the supplied aluminum spacer (little aluminum cylinder with a hole in it) between the chassis and the reservoir, and I suggest putting some silicon sealer on top of the spacer as well as all around the screw to keep everything tight and sealed. Screw it in, and give the silicon some time to set. We'll come back to this.

    Time to take off the IC, this is a bit of a b!tch the first time, but it's not that difficult. Unscrew the bolts holding the IC down, and unscrew the brackets from the Throttle body coupling and turbo outlet hose. These ones oba heah:


    Then take off the hoses going to the PCV tube, and take off your BOV and set it somewhere. Hoses and BOV:


    Now its time for the bumper
    My poor tranny!... someone sell me an aspen white 06 sti.

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    Registered User E-Wrex's Avatar
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    Oh yeah, gotta take off the Intake box and silencer elbow. To do this, unscrew the bolts holding the intake scoop, pull that, then unscrew the bolts holding in the intake box. If you cant figure out how to pull the Intake box and snorkus (elbow), you really shouldn't be attempting a FMIC install, or anything on your car for that matter.

    Moving on, time to take the bumper off. This sucks, but it's only as difficult as you make it. Now, there are a bunch of little plug/clips on the top of the bumper where the grill used to be. Use a small screw driver and pop out the middles of them to remove them. Now look in the wheel wells and underneath the bumper and there are quite a few more clips, and some of them are an absolute ***** to get out and tend to break so just be patient and careful. The bumper should move pretty freely at this point, now use a small screw driver (taped if your worried about scratches) and insert it into the little notch on the fog-light surrounds and pry them free. Give it a hearty tug and the surrounds will pop free, set them somewhere. Look inside and you should see a couple more clips, take them out and disconnect the fogs, the bumper should come off at this point. Set it somewhere on a blanket so as not to get scratched. Take the ballasts off the bumper cover, store them somewhere, because you can't put them back on.

    Now, spray some liquid wrench on the bolts holding the bumper bar on. Let it soak for a few minutes, and come back and pulverize them things. The bolts are on there pretty damn good, but with a bit of force the break free. There are six 14mm bolts that need to come off here.

    Now for the fun stuff....

    Take your core out of its box and see to it that it's (securely)mounted onto your new bumper bar. Just for fun, hold the new intercooler next to your stock one and admire its immensity. Have someone hold it up where the bumper bar screws in, and well, screw it in. I torqued the fudge out of these bolts, got 'em real nice and tight. Here's how it should look:


    Put on your new short ram intake, because it would get tough with all that new tubing.

    Next post...
    My poor tranny!... someone sell me an aspen white 06 sti.

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    Registered User E-Wrex's Avatar
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    Ok, now it's time to get the new tubes all put in. Its a real tight fit, so don't freak it when you don't get it the first time. This easily took me the longest out of all the steps. Ok, there are five tubes:

    1) A Long tube with a sharp bend on one end.(runs into your throttle body)
    2) A shorter tube with a sharp bend.(comes out of the cold side of the IC)
    3) A Horseshoe shaped tube.(fits on the hot side of the IC)
    4) A long tube with a fairly easy bend (maybe 70 degrees, connects to the horseshoe shaped pipe on the hot side of the IC)
    5) A Short tube with a slight bend. (turbo outlet)

    Diagram:



    Become familiar with all the pipes and where they are to be located. Just get an idea of where they are going to go and how they will fit.

    First off, look down where the Coolant bottle used to be (stocker) and you should see a plastic bracket coming off the fan casing where the tank used to sit. You need to cut this back to clear the new pipe. I used a backpacking saw (because it was handy and had aggressive ass teeth) and it went through it like butter, but anything will work. Next up, look down to the left of the utterly massive IC ( ) and there is a little metal bracket welded into the chassis. It looks like a blue metal "L", this needs to be removed, as you will find when you start laying some pipe. I just stuck a screw driver between it and the chassis, hit it with a hammer about ten times and broke the weld. I suppose you could dremel it if your a big baby. Alright, time to put in the pipes...

    I started by putting the one that goes between the turbo outlet pipe (5), and the horseshoe pipe on the side of the IC (3). Put the silicon coupling on the bottom BEFORE you put it in. I had to take it back out (which was a huge pain) to put the coupler on because you can't get in there to screw the clamp down securely, there just isn't any room. It makes it kind of tricky to put it in, but it'll work if you come straight from the top down. Some people use hair-spray and spray lightly on the inside of the couplings to seal it, I didn't and it works fine, but it is a good idea. Next one I think would be best, is probably the turbo outlet. The coupling to use is the one that tapers down a bit. I had one hell of a time getting the tubes to line up right here, but after a pretty serious shoving match with the number 4 pipe, they did indeed line up. You can see that right here:


    Also, be careful when pushing around the fuel and AC lines, I think I had quite a bit of clearance on the Fuel lines, but it rests pretty heavily on the AC ones. If one of those brake, you have a serious mess on your hands.

    Once you get the 5 and 4 pipe lined up, make sure you have room on the hot side of the IC to throw on the horseshoe pipe (3), luckily, you can kind of rotate this one up and down and it makes it easier to get it together.

    Next post...
    My poor tranny!... someone sell me an aspen white 06 sti.

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    Registered User E-Wrex's Avatar
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    Ok, now for the cold side of the IC. The tube that runs to the TB is a sonuvab!tch. the angle is weird, and it kinda puzzles its way into the engine compartment. You have to run it out of the hole in the side of the engine bay, and into the fender. Be sure to put the trim stuff that came with the kit around the edge of the hole. There are two holes going into the fender, it is the front one. Found that out the hard way, thats for sure. To get this tube in, you just pretty much have to fidget with it until it finally goes in, and it's hecka hard to get it to line up with the other tube as well. There is no real easy way to get them to line up, just a ton of wiggling and pushing.

    Now put on the tube for the BOV, I run an HKS, but the stock one is fine. The instructions say to use a new gasket, I didnt have one, so I just reused the old one, and it was fine. Now that the IC is basically installed, you just need to tie up the loose ends.

    You still need to route the PCV hosing. The hose they give you is the black one, and there are the two connectors, one T, and one straight. I kind of like to do multiple mods at once, just to get them out of the way, I kind of wish I would have thrown on a catch can while I was doing this install. The instructions for that are here:

    Helix catch can install on WRX

    If you don't opt for the catch can, just hook the T fitting on the two hoses on the left, with the bottom of the T pointing towards the front of the scoob, and the right side pointing towards the drivers side. Put the other one in the other hose, I sprayed a bit of WD40 to help get the hoses one, it helps.

    Now, go the coolant reservour and and fill it up about a third of the way, hold the hose up so it doesnt spill everywhere. Take the top plug and put the two nipples on, one on outlet, one on inlet, and put the angled quick release fitting on the other. Be careful because I broke one of the nipples and had to buy a new catch can. Oh yeah, wrap the threads with teflon tape, as it likes to leak right there. put the other skinny clear hose up in the inlet nipple, and down into the liquid, and plug the one on the outside into the quick release. Put the top on and clamp it down. Use the red silicone hose ro run from the radiator to the tank, and cut it off, use the excess to make a run-off (just be sure it doesn't hit the fan or pulleys).
    My poor tranny!... someone sell me an aspen white 06 sti.

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    Registered User E-Wrex's Avatar
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    Time to trim the bumper!

    Alright, this is a very easy spot to make your car look rediculous. Be VERY careful, I am not to be held responsible for big cuts and gashes in your bumper. I used a dremel tool with a sanding wheel, and it worked beautifully. Be sure to were gloves and goggles, because those little wheels like to break, and hot plastic stings, and I imagine is bad for your eyeballs. I have the 05, you ppl with bug-eyes are just going to have to guesstimate how much bumper to take off. I used some painters tape, and taped off how much I wanted to take off, it worked very well, and came out looking extremely proffesional. Trim it slowly, and be patient, this takes a bit of time, if you rush it, the wheel will run and cut the bejesus outta your bumper cover. I trimmed from the inside (unpainted side) of the bumper cover, and it worked well, any wheel runs arent visible. You do get these little balls of balck plastic around the edge, but if you go over it a couple of times and pick em all off, it looks good. I left the black part on, here's how it looked:





    That's a thing of beauty right there, am I right?

    The bumper does sit about an 8th of an inch higher, but it's not too bad. It's a snug fit tho, you gotta use some force to get the hood shut, but it's well worth it for the aesthetic value and of course the cool factor for when I finally get that turbo on.

    As far as performance goes, you do get a bit of lag. It wasn't nearly as bad as I thought it was going to be, and to be completely honest I can barely tell the difference. It does feel like it has a bit more grunt, but that too isn't very noticeable. I would not suggest running one without EM, I did for like a month and a half, and it was fine, but apparently a bad idea. Finally put my Utec in, and DAMN! Stg 2 rockzors my socks off. Can't wait to go to stg 4, got all the parts, just need to install the bastards.

    Damn big post! that's what I call thourough. PM with any questions, or just post 'em.
    My poor tranny!... someone sell me an aspen white 06 sti.

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    Registered User E-Wrex's Avatar
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    One more pic:



    Put some STi Fog covers in place of the empty fog-light holes. She needs a bath desperatly, and No. 29 is my first track #, and I want to leave it on their for good luck.

    Sorry for the crappy quality, a lot of these were my cell phone cam.


    And..... Done!
    My poor tranny!... someone sell me an aspen white 06 sti.

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    Registered User E-Wrex's Avatar
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    Underhood pic for reference:

    My poor tranny!... someone sell me an aspen white 06 sti.

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    Registered User wRxOne's Avatar
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    Nice... I'll be using this soon.

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    i have the same thing but my bov is on the pipe right after the turbo. i like it because i only have 500rpm turbo lag and the pipes are smaller then most fmic

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    Its soon nice you did this now I know i'll be able to do it for sure

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    Registered User blahblah's Avatar
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    i was able to retain my fogs with my fmic(txs) just curious to what got in the way of ur fogs with the perrin. i had to do a little trimming but it worked out okay
    282 AWHP...267 lb-ft torque.
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    Registered User joesubaru7's Avatar
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    Is the Perrin FMIC too big for my 06 WRX STG. 2. I'm not going to be able to do the turbo upgrade until next summer, but I want to install the intercooler.
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    Registered User blahblah's Avatar
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    I'm almost 100% sure that the perrin will fit, but I would advise against going with a fmic before a turbo, especially such a large one. You will need to be tuned both times anyway so if I were in your shoes I would probably save up and do both at the same time. You'll get a larger increase in hp if you do both together too
    282 AWHP...267 lb-ft torque.
    2005 WRB WRX Sedan

    "he's a domestic fan with a hunger for rice"

  16. #15
    Registered User ansonowicz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by blahblah View Post
    I'm almost 100% sure that the perrin will fit, but I would advise against going with a fmic before a turbo, especially such a large one. You will need to be tuned both times anyway so if I were in your shoes I would probably save up and do both at the same time. You'll get a larger increase in hp if you do both together too
    This thread would have been nice when I installed my APS 725 on my 06 wagon! Nice writeup.

    I drove on stock turbo w/ FMIC for about 3 months....it ran horribly, fuel cuts, backfires, and LAAAAAAAG.
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