The OTHER Blarg mod: IC sprayer - part 1, the gauges
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This is a discussion on The OTHER Blarg mod: IC sprayer - part 1, the gauges within the Engine Performance forums, part of the Tutorials & DIY category; Well I'm finally getting some work done on my intercooler sprayer, so here's part 1 the ultimate sprayer requires ultimate ...

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    Registered User blarg's Avatar
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    The OTHER Blarg mod: IC sprayer - part 1, the gauges

    Well I'm finally getting some work done on my intercooler sprayer, so here's part 1

    the ultimate sprayer requires ultimate gauges, so that's up first.

    I decided to install a water level gauge for the water tank, a pressure gauge, and a pre and post IC temp gauge.

    The first two gauges are pretty straightforward and will not be covered here in great detail. Basically, like all gauges, you have 5 wires to run, two for lighting that connect to your dimmable dashboard circuit (easily tapped behind the radio from the harness that's made for your OEM boost gauge or OEM tripple cluster). The second two wires are gauge power, which I ran from my power outlet, so the gauges are on when the radio's on. I can check water level and so forth without starting the car. The last wire goes to your sender. You also need to GROUND your sender if its not connected directly to something that's bolted to the chasis. There are plenty of gauge install threads on this board and other so I'm not going to go into it again.

    The third gauge I installed was an SPA Digital Dual Displat temp gauge. SPA makes about 20 different dual display gauges with just about every possible combination of two readings you may want. pressures, temperatures, whatever. They are sold as a kit that contans all necessary senders, wiring and so on. They're really great. The gauges start ar right around $200, and bimmerworld.com seems to have the best prices for them.

    I chose to install my water spray-related gauges together on my A-pillar using a Lo-tek tripple gauge pod for wagons. ** Wagons have a different A-Pillar ** so make sure you get the right one if you have a wagon.

    here's a shot with most of the electricals for the 2 "common" gauges already done, with a larger hole drilled for the SPA gauge. Since the SPA gauge comes with a harness and all wires have waterproof connectors already on, you'll have to drill a somewhat bigger hole to get the wires through.

    plastic conduit is your friend..helps keep all your wires from getting tangled
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails shot1.jpg   shot2.jpg  
    Last edited by blarg; 08-02-2005 at 05:27 PM.
    ScoobyDMC #009 - making dirty jokes since before you were making dirty diapers.
    Quote Originally Posted by Blarg
    go f*** yourself

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    Registered User blarg's Avatar
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    Next - prepping the hoses.

    The stock IC to throttlebody hose works just fine because its fairly thick, but the Y-hose under the intercooler is just thin plastic and doesn't work nearly as well so I used a Perrin Y-hose. Its easier to work with and gives you a little extra power.

    Before you star drilling your hoses, you need to fabricate two ground wires. Since you're going to be mounting the sensors in rubber, they need to be grounded to the chasis.

    I used two two-lead trailer connectors from Pep Boys and 3/8" battery terminals.

    First, cut wires on the trailer connectors near the connector so that you have two sets of mating connectors with matching color wires.

    then, attatch a battery terminal to the cut end of the wire. I used a crimp tool and a soldering iron to make sure I had good contact.

    Bend ONE of each sets of battery terminals at a 90 degree angle (this will be the sensor side) see the pictures below to get a better idea, unfortunately I have no pictures of the steps in making the ground wires. Its pretty simple and if you can't figure it out, you probably shouldn't be messing with your cars electricals anyway

    the purpose is to have a quick-disconnect for your ground wire if you ever need to remove your intercooler

    for the IC to throttlebody hose, you simply drill a hole right in the center of the hose. If you don't hit the hose dead center you may have trouble getting the hose back on with the sensor in it. Use a relatively small drill bit, and try to screw the sensor into the smallest possible hole. The smaller the hole, the better the less chances you have of leaking boost around the sensor. The sensors are all 1/8" NPT. For a retaining nut, I used 1/8" locknuts found in the electrical section of Home Depot where all the lamp parts are. You're looking for thin 1/8" nuts, mine came in a pack of 12.

    when you screw in the sensor don't forget to put on your ground wire before you start working it into your hose.

    After you've worked the sensor in, put some red threadlock on the sensor and screw on the retaining nut. Make sure you get it on tight because you DON'T want it getting loose and shooting into your intake.

    For the Y-hose, I found that on the Perrin hose, the best spot to tap the hose is right in the center of the "P" in the Perrin logo. Getting a nut in there is a little tricky, but not impossible. Same procedure as above.

    You now have two installed sensors, ready to go in the car.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails shot3.jpg   shot4.jpg   shot5.jpg   shot6.jpg  
    ScoobyDMC #009 - making dirty jokes since before you were making dirty diapers.
    Quote Originally Posted by Blarg
    go f*** yourself

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    Registered User blarg's Avatar
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    next, attach the other end of your grounding wires to the chasis. here's two shots for some good places. My Y-pipe ground went to one of the bolts holding the IC bracket to the block, and the throttlebody ground went to a grounding bolt right on the manifold.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails shot7.jpg   shot8.jpg  
    ScoobyDMC #009 - making dirty jokes since before you were making dirty diapers.
    Quote Originally Posted by Blarg
    go f*** yourself

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    Registered User blarg's Avatar
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    finally, run the two sensor wires through the hole in your firewall (right behind the clutch pedal). Its easier to do this before you reinstall the IC. Use a generous number of cable ties to make sure that the wires aren't in the way. There should be PLENTY of extra wire. You may have to fold it up and tie it out of the way somewhere since you can't just cut some off.

    reinstall the y-pipe and outlet pipe to the intercooler, and then replace the intercooler. On the outlet pipe, it works best if you point the sensor DOWN towards the motor. The fit is VERY tight, and you might end up resing the intercooler against the sensor. This doesn't seem to hurt anything - just don't freak out if it bumps and doesn't feel like its going in right. As long as you got the front sensor dead center, even if there is metal-to-metal contact with the sensor and IC or throttlebody, there should still be enough room to get everything back together and sealed. There should even be enough room to do my IC tilt mod as long as the sensor is located on the BOTTOM of the outlet pipe.

    connect the harness to the gauge.

    The SPA gauge has a programing button. I chose to just program the gauge and stuff the button in behind the gauge in the gauge pod rather than drill a hole for it. in THIS particular application, I don't think that I will ever need to change anything, so once its set, it should be fine. I can always pull the gauge out of the pod enough to get to the button if I need it.

    For the temp gauge, there's really nothing to program other than color (red or green), intensity (you can't DIM the gauge with the dashboard, so you just have to set it to match the brightness of the rest of your cluster and be happy), resolution (do you want to see tenths of a degree?), and HI/LOW warning lights (i just disabled mine). After this I hid the button behind the gauge and mounted it in the pod (it just slides in - you may have to dremel about 1mm around your pod to get it to go in).

    well, that's abou it, the other two gauges get connected to the pressure sender near the solenoid for the spayer, and the other gauge goes to the level sender on the tank.

    by the way, if you're curious about the PDA, its connected to an 80 gig drive in the glovebox and works as my GPS and mp3 player. I suppose it could probably play video too, but I think its like a $3000 ticket for watching movies while you drive so I haven't really explored that option.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails shot9.jpg   shot10.jpg  
    ScoobyDMC #009 - making dirty jokes since before you were making dirty diapers.
    Quote Originally Posted by Blarg
    go f*** yourself

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    The Default One SeattleJeremy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by blarg
    You may have to fold it up and tie it out of the way somewhere since you can't just cut some off.
    Why not? Because the Impedance would change?

    Awesome write up. Maybe someday for my car.

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    Registered User blarg's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeremy96gase
    Why not? Because the Impedance would change?

    Awesome write up. Maybe someday for my car.
    No, the wiring is all pre-made. At one end is an 8-pin connector that goes into the back of the gauge, and on the other end re 2 plugs that plug into a matching connectors on the sensor, so if you cut it, you have to rewire it. The plug on the sensor has 3 wires, not one like most sensors. I only had about 6-8" left over...it wasn't a big deal. I just made a loop, collapsed it, and put some plastic conduit over it with cable ties...looks very clean.

    by the way, you can see the connectors in some of the pictures of the sensors. Like I said, the guys at SPA have made a VERY nice product. Its complete and well thought-out. I will definately be installing more of these gauges. You get 2 instruments in the space of one 52mm gauge, and its a digital readout. I like the look of analog gauges, but these things are just so damn convenient and usefull...argh!!!!
    Last edited by blarg; 08-02-2005 at 09:32 PM.
    ScoobyDMC #009 - making dirty jokes since before you were making dirty diapers.
    Quote Originally Posted by Blarg
    go f*** yourself

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    Registered User flabele's Avatar
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    Damn this guy is good...

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    Registered User blarg's Avatar
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    Ok, I finally got the larger intercooler installed. For the temp sensors I actually drilled and threaded some holes. One in the metal "Y" pipe, and one in the front of the intercooler



    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails ICfront.jpg   ICY.jpg  
    ScoobyDMC #009 - making dirty jokes since before you were making dirty diapers.
    Quote Originally Posted by Blarg
    go f*** yourself

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    Registered User blarg's Avatar
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    I also modified the install a little bit by grounding both sensors to the same point.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails grounf.jpg  
    ScoobyDMC #009 - making dirty jokes since before you were making dirty diapers.
    Quote Originally Posted by Blarg
    go f*** yourself

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    Registered User blarg's Avatar
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    then I screwed up and cut the new IC inlet hose too short (they just give you an elbow and you have to cut it yourself...I messed up), so I can't finish the install today. I'm going to drive to the vendor (in a borrowed car) and pick up a new hose tomorrow.

    poop
    ScoobyDMC #009 - making dirty jokes since before you were making dirty diapers.
    Quote Originally Posted by Blarg
    go f*** yourself

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    Registered User rex.effect's Avatar
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    I am looking to save a little money on this project. What bennefit does the Water Pressure gauge serve? Has it been worth knowing the info? Sorry for the n00b question, but I just don't understand why I would need to know the Water Pressure

    Thanks for the help,
    Taz
    -Taz
    Blobeye Syndicate #77

    "Understeer is when you´re scared...
    Oversteer is when your passengers are scared"

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    Registered User blarg's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rex.effect
    I am looking to save a little money on this project. What bennefit does the Water Pressure gauge serve? Has it been worth knowing the info? Sorry for the n00b question, but I just don't understand why I would need to know the Water Pressure

    Thanks for the help,
    Taz
    They're like an EGT gauge. they aren't REALLY necessary, but they really help you diagnose problems and show you if anything goes wrong. Like I said in the howto, this is the "ultimate" sprayer...nothing half-assed here. there's lots of corners you can cut and still have an effective sprayer.
    ScoobyDMC #009 - making dirty jokes since before you were making dirty diapers.
    Quote Originally Posted by Blarg
    go f*** yourself

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    Registered User rex.effect's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by blarg
    They're like an EGT gauge. they aren't REALLY necessary, but they really help you diagnose problems and show you if anything goes wrong. Like I said in the howto, this is the "ultimate" sprayer...nothing half-assed here. there's lots of corners you can cut and still have an effective sprayer.
    Yeah, but that is what I was getting at. The only thing I can come up with would make the gauge useful would be to tell me there was a backup, or leak, in the line or if the pump is going up. Does that about cover the use for the gauge?
    -Taz
    Blobeye Syndicate #77

    "Understeer is when you´re scared...
    Oversteer is when your passengers are scared"

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    Registered User blarg's Avatar
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    yeah, as long as everything works, you don't need it. Kind like the water/oil temp/pressure gauges, voltmeter...
    ScoobyDMC #009 - making dirty jokes since before you were making dirty diapers.
    Quote Originally Posted by Blarg
    go f*** yourself

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    Registered User rex.effect's Avatar
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    Gotcha! Thanks for your help. Coming from an NA vehicle, I never needed gauges before.
    -Taz
    Blobeye Syndicate #77

    "Understeer is when you´re scared...
    Oversteer is when your passengers are scared"

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