Oh yeah, turboxs's guide is okay, but they dont mention HOW to do it just what to do, so that is mainly why this forum rocks. You all kick "Nabisco's" butt.
This is a discussion on VF34, Injectors, Fuel Pump, Spark Plugs, Downpipe Install Tips and Thanks! within the Engine Performance forums, part of the Tutorials & DIY category; I'd like to first say that the job of installing all these parts (VF34, Injectors, Fuel Pump, Spark Plugs, Downpipe) ...
I'd like to first say that the job of installing all these parts (VF34, Injectors, Fuel Pump, Spark Plugs, Downpipe) is a beast and a half, but if it wasn't for clubwrx.net I would have never finished!
My install went as rough as normal, but taking everything off is what took the longest. I got eveyrthing on and running today in about 10 hours though.
1. You don't have to drain fuel lines or stall car etc. Simply change your plugs with the fuel still in the lines and yeah fuel goes all over the block and all, but it evaporates in no time, leaving the lines with hardly any fuel left to bother with the fuel pump install. The car also will start right up first try even with letting this fuel out.
2. BUY a 12mm Ratcheting, Flex Head, Box Wrench/Open Ended Wrench to get the tough bolt on the GBOD off, but only attempt after removing the also tough, black breather cover in front of it. This breather cover CAN be removed but the bolt closest to the front is really hard to get off without the perfect width socket/wrench/etc set-up.
3. Be patient with the coolant, air bubbles are hell to get out. I was left with 1 quart of extra coolant, which I assume is due to air bubbles, but after starting and idling the car briefly, the rest of the coolant went in.
4. Cut hose nipple section off of driver side GBOD and use it, don't attempt to replace the GBOD's on the car. Don't hold me responsible when you get t-boned and light up like the 4th of July though.
5. BUY a breaker bar, the uppipe/turbo bolts are hopeless without this tool!
6. Slide stubborn fuel pump hoses off with the tips of some needle-nose pliars, don't pinch just push it will get them right off.
7. Don't overtighten the fuel pump cover, I actually broke a stud in half doing this, but one won't hurt right, lol.
8. I kept my top mount (oem) but I think an FMIC w/ adequate fitment would be even easier to reinstall... so do what you want.
9. Cross your fingers and pray....
10. Enjoy the ride... I have yet to, lol, just finished tonight and drove it 5 miles, but tomorrow is a trip that is 2 hours hahaha, how smart is that?
P.S. Don't dread the GBOD's once you follow these tips they are history... other things will bug you much more, like stubborn bolts, coolant air bubbles, etc
Allow 2-3 weeks LOL, it took me 2 weeks of getting people to run to the store to get me parts to get everything off, but like I said it all went back together in one day no problems.
Take it easy and thanks again clubwrx.net.
RE:#1 I don't know why you just wouldn't want to unhook the fuel pump and run it dry, it only takes a second and you barely have any leaking fuel at that point.
Actually, its not that I didn't want to, it's that I planned the whole thing out wrong and still had fuel in my lines when my whole engine bay was torn apart, preventing me from being able to start the car, not mention it would have been insurance to have coolant in the system at the time. But yeah, you are totally right, no reason not to do it either way, I think it depends on your situation at the time. Peace
Originally Posted by sagelwwa
haha I've been in your position as well man, it sucks. YOu get everything torn off then you realize you didn't run the motor dry. Even if you depressurize the fuel system there's still quite a bit of fuel that's going to come pouring out. So I got a big box fan and a hour or so break while that evaporated.
ah well, live and learn