Looking for help with STi Injector install and Perrin Fuel Rail Install. - Page 2
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This is a discussion on Looking for help with STi Injector install and Perrin Fuel Rail Install. within the Engine Modifications forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; Just to give an update, I did my injector install. I ended up loosing on of the injectors seals that ...

  1. #16
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    Just to give an update, I did my injector install. I ended up loosing on of the injectors seals that everyone tells you to watch out for... I was pulling out the stock injector and was trying to be as careful as possible and then I blinked and the seal was gone... never to be found again. I took a flashlight and mirror to my engine bay and never found it. I also took off the passenger side manifold heat shield to try and find it but nodda. After waiting for 2 days for the part I finished up with no problems. Charged the fuel system and no leaks (knock on wood). I have been driving for 3 days now and everything appears to be working fine. I skipped the fuel rail, part due to not thinking I would need it (VF30 is biggest turbo I am probably going to run) and part not knowing how to install the damn rail. I looked at it for about 30 mins but couldnt figure it out.. Oh well... THe fuel rails are now for sale

    Total time was about 3.5hrs. If I would do it again I am sure like everyone is that it would take alot less time. But then again how often does one do something like this again?

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  3. #17
    Registered User Quantum-Racing.com's Avatar
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    Fuel rails ARE beneficial before 600 HP. If you have tuned a WRX before (with more than an S-AFC) and tuned other turbo cars, you'll see that they are somewhat of a knock-prone setup. Rails help with this. So does other things.
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  4. #18
    Registered User All8up's Avatar
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    Originally posted by WRX-Hellfire
    Just to give an update, I did my injector install. I ended up loosing on of the injectors seals that everyone tells you to watch out for... I was pulling out the stock injector and was trying to be as careful as possible and then I blinked and the seal was gone... never to be found again. I took a flashlight and mirror to my engine bay and never found it. I also took off the passenger side manifold heat shield to try and find it but nodda. After waiting for 2 days for the part I finished up with no problems. Charged the fuel system and no leaks (knock on wood). I have been driving for 3 days now and everything appears to be working fine.
    I lost the seal too, but I went through hell finding it again. No fuel leaks w/o the seal?
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  5. #19
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    Originally posted by All8up


    I lost the seal too, but I went through hell finding it again. No fuel leaks w/o the seal?
    I had to order a new seal before finishing my install. I did try a 2.5 injector seal but their injectors have a 2 seal setup vs the wrx that has 1 seal. So it did not work

  6. #20
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    I did the turbo install last weekend. Took me two days because it takes four hands to do. It helps to have Skinny Son around. Christ, I love that kid!

    But! What other parts do I need to attempt this job? Sounds like seals are in order. Does anyone have part numbers?

    Please, let me be clear about this. I'm not a mechanic. In fact, I'm maybe a little worse at this stuff than some of the other guys here. My hands are pretty big. I can't get to some of the stuff you guys can reach with less trouble. I'm what people call a "ham fisted - get a bigger hammer" kind of guy. I've done some pretty challenging work in the past but this one scares me a bit because of the potential of fuel leaks and... fire in the engine bay. Bad JuJu!

    The turbo was really tough IMHO. Is this worse? I've never even seen a fuel rail before! (What an admission! I really look like a noob . But I can rebuild a carburetor!)

    Pics of how to do this would be nice.

    BTW, if I bought a TurboXS kit, and all I got was the direction on their web site, I'd be really pissed! They do an excellent job for us otherwise.

    Pics! I need pics!

    misterx

  7. #21
    Moderator aussieinstlouis's Avatar
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    To be honest - that sentiment about the pics is what I felt until I did my injectors. There is nothing to take a photo of!!! You cannot get your head into a position to see half of this stuff let alone a camera! The instructions are pretty good but the bolt count on one of the guards is wrong! You NEED a wobble extension for your sockets!!

  8. #22
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    OK, I take your word for it on the pics. Sometimes, I wonder how I would do pics on work for teaching purposes and there are some things that would challenge.

    Now about the part number for the seal. I think it would be nice to have a couple of spares on hand. Anyone?

    misterx

  9. #23
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    Bump.

    Does anybody know the part # for the injector seals? Even if I had an exploded view, I'm not sure which one it would be because I haven't done the job.

    misterx

  10. #24
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    Originally posted by MisterX
    Bump.

    Does anybody know the part # for the injector seals? Even if I had an exploded view, I'm not sure which one it would be because I haven't done the job.

    misterx
    Let me see if I can dig up the part #.

  11. #25
    Registered User pace's Avatar
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    Removing the rail guards is the toughest part of this install. It takes me about 30 minutes now, and then the remainder of the install is another 30 minutes. The first time I did it, it took me a half day though...

    The passenger-side rail: Remove the airbox first. Now the rail guard. The guard bolts are very tricky to get to. You will need a ring spanner, and possibly an elbow ('wobbly') joint for your socket. They are either 12mm or 14mm (like everything else on this car!). Can't remember which. Once the bolts are out, this guard will remove very easily. Then there is like two 12mm bolts (I think) that hold the rail down. Once the rail is unbolted you can gently but firmly hinge it up from back to front; just enough so that you can pull the injectors free. I did not re-install the guards. They are unwieldy pieces of crap, and if I get into an accident that is heavy enough to damage the rails and cause a fuel spillage... well that will probably be the least of my concerns.

    The driver-side rail: Remove the battery and the washer bottle to give you room to work. The rail guard bolts are easy to get to here, but there are bunches of cables and lines that will conspire to prevent you from removing that guard. I very very gently bent the A/C line up to create some extra clearance. Then its just a case of maneuvering the guard around until you can pull it clear. At that point, the procedure to remove the injectors is the same as above.

    It's an easy job when you've done it a couple of times. The first attempt will seem somewhat daunting though. I did not bother greasing anything as you had mentioned. Be careful where you put that vaseline (really). It's pretroleum-based and may not be kind to those rubber o-rings.

    -Pace

  12. #26
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    Pace, good job. Sorry about your flywheel!

    I found this link with pics over at I-club.

    I was just looking at the car. The left side looks nuts with hoses and such just as you said. The right side doesn't look much better. I'm most concerned about the seals. These aren't the O rings are they?

    My dealer's parts guy is OK but he's not the best. If I ask for a gasket, I have to point it out to him on a diagram. He doesn't respond to "turbo inlet gasket". If I tell him injector seals, he's going to pull out a drawing and ask me to tell him what I want. I'm going to have to do a little more research before I go over there and ask for parts.

    misterx
    Last edited by MisterX; 10-02-2002 at 04:14 PM.

  13. #27
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    Originally posted by MisterX
    Pace, good job. Sorry about your flywheel!

    I found this link with pics over at I-club.

    I was just looking at the car. The left side looks nuts with hoses and such just as you said. The right side doesn't look much better. I'm most concerned about the seals. These aren't the O rings are they?

    My dealer's parts guy is OK but he's not the best. If I ask for a gasket, I have to point it out to him on a diagram. He doesn't respond to "turbo inlet gasket". If I tell him injector seals, he's going to pull out a drawing and ask me to tell him what I want. I'm going to have to do a little more research before I go over there and ask for parts.

    misterx
    I cant find the paper I wrote the part # on. I am pretty sure its on the intake manifold screen on their parts list.

  14. #28
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    Originally posted by MisterX
    Pace, good job. Sorry about your flywheel!

    I found this link with pics over at I-club.

    I was just looking at the car. The left side looks nuts with hoses and such just as you said. The right side doesn't look much better. I'm most concerned about the seals. These aren't the O rings are they?

    My dealer's parts guy is OK but he's not the best. If I ask for a gasket, I have to point it out to him on a diagram. He doesn't respond to "turbo inlet gasket". If I tell him injector seals, he's going to pull out a drawing and ask me to tell him what I want. I'm going to have to do a little more research before I go over there and ask for parts.

    misterx
    Okay, I finally found the dang part number!!!

    16608AA000 Fuel Injector Seal

  15. #29
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    Fabulous! Thank you!

    misterx

  16. #30
    Registered User EJsportDOTcom's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Quantum-Racing.com
    Fuel rails ARE beneficial before 600 HP. If you have tuned a WRX before (with more than an S-AFC) and tuned other turbo cars, you'll see that they are somewhat of a knock-prone setup. Rails help with this. So does other things.
    i agree completely and this is why....

    1.we have one cylinder practically touching the turbo while the others are not......
    2.just look at the stock fuel rails and think in terms of flow.....

    i think fuel rails are good on any car getting tuned

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