Adjusting the wastegate arm - Page 3
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This is a discussion on Adjusting the wastegate arm within the Engine Modifications forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; Originally posted by LemonHerb can someone do a complete DIY on this? With maybe some hints on how not to ...

  1. #31
    Registered User Racenut's Avatar
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    Originally posted by LemonHerb
    can someone do a complete DIY on this? With maybe some hints on how not to lose the c clip?
    Look at the pics in the first page. Once you take the heat shield off, it looks just like that. Just pop the C clip, loosen the lock nut, and rotate the end that fits on the wastegate arm to shorten the length. Start with one or 1.5 turns, then increase .5 turns after that. Watch the boost gauge for spikes.... if you start spiking to 18 or higher, back it off half a turn. Don't forget to snug up the lock nut when you're done.

    It took me longer to type that then it takes to DO it

    As far as not loosing the C clip... just don't do that I guess you could try to tie some fishing line to it or something silly.. but just be careful and pay attention.

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  3. #32
    Registered User mourning_air's Avatar
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    Update

    As some have already mentioned, the boost spike is shortly learned by the ECU and the ECU eliminates the spiking if it is not too drastic. I am now running 1.5 turns shorter and it's perfect, but the length seems to vary from car to car...
    <Ryan>
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  4. #33
    Registered User AsianWRX's Avatar
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    Car pulls like a rabid dog now. I just had to give the car time to adjust to the mods. Greg (scooby24) helped me out with the wastegate arm. the fluttering is barely there and I can tell that my boost is hitting harder. Thanks for all your help!
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  5. #34
    Registered User scooby24's Avatar
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    No problem Mark!

    One thing I felt like I should mention.....anyone that does this make sure and pay attention to the arm when you screw down the locking nut. If the arm is twisted to the side at all you will have potentially dangerous boost problems.

    I loosened it again and didn't notice that the arm was twisted. Was driving it not even paying attention and floored it in 4th on the highway. Boost went up to 19 lbs dropped down to 10, spiked at 19 again and kept doing that. If you are experiencing any boost jumping after doing this mod check the arm and make sure it's not twisted to either side.

    BTW after I fixed it boost went up to 14 lbs, DIDN'T spike at all and held there all the way to redline in every gear except 1st and 2nd (which can't be changed without engine management or a MBC)
    05 Crystal Gray STi
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  6. #35
    Registered User Fixxxer's Avatar
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    I adjusted mine one full turn last Saturday. The wastegate flutter got quieter, but it's still there. My boost was spiking just a little, but it has subsided now. I'm going to give it another 1/2 turn this weekend and see what it does.

    -Lee

  7. #36
    Registered User fatalbertswrx's Avatar
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    anybody know what size c-clip that is or part ## for it because i lost mine. even used a rag to catch it when i took it off.

    putting it back on is another story though.
    2002 bugeyes
    It just looks stock . . .

  8. #37
    Registered User platano's Avatar
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    Originally posted by LemonHerb
    can someone do a complete DIY on this? With maybe some hints on how not to lose the c clip?
    I've tried it already (I was trying to minimize the wastegate flutter) .. However I have a VF22 and dunno if it would work the same as the OEM turbo, if anyone knows let me know)..

    I did this early in the morning, that way the engine was still cold.

    I pushed down on the rod making it easier for the c-clip to be loose.
    They do have a tool for removing it. And in most cases, Maintenance books tells you to replace them (they can be found in Lowes, HomeDepot, just make sure they're the right size).
    But if you need to keep the clip, and don't have the "special tool", I use a flat head screw driver, or needlenose pliers.
    I put my finger under it, and pressed a lil bit on the sides with needle nose pliers, once the c-clip starts to come loose, grab it with the pliers and pull it out.

    I kept doing this from time to time. I'd adjust it, run the car, let it cool off, try it again.. I still get the stupid flutter, so Im not sure exactly how much I have to turn it. but I kinda got side tracked and haven't tried it again.... I'll try to find the thread where I found out about it.
    Quote Originally Posted by zoophagy
    Happy Birthday. May all your birthday dreams come true except for the one were I come over to your house, and you timidly ask me if I have ever kissed another guy before, and it ends up some weird poo porn movie.

  9. #38
    Registered User platano's Avatar
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    oops nevermind I answered my own question, but looking at the pic more closely. the arm on the VF22 is solid all the way. Doesn't have and adjustment nut like the one on the picture. So I guess I was just turning the arm around and around for no reason...
    Quote Originally Posted by zoophagy
    Happy Birthday. May all your birthday dreams come true except for the one were I come over to your house, and you timidly ask me if I have ever kissed another guy before, and it ends up some weird poo porn movie.

  10. #39
    Registered User driverj's Avatar
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    I just did mine and I really do not know why I waited this long. Very easy. I did one turn and went for a drive. Flutter is almost gone all the way to 7K but I did not hover on any lower RPM to much. The hit of the turbo much more evident according to the butt dyno.

    I did a pull on 3rd from 1800 RPM and just floored it and spiked to about .1 mpa which is acceptable. I did it again and the spike was even less. Car is also smoother during acceleration.

    Level of difficulty is novice.
    Satisfaction level is high.

    One advise is to loosen the nut prior to removing from the assembly. It's pretty tight since it's baked in the turbo's heat but do not worry about difficulty.

  11. #40
    Registered User fatalbertswrx's Avatar
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    ok i just did this too and lost the c-clip and had a hard time finding anything to replace it with so what i did was bought an asortment of e-clips and dremeled the middle prong off and it worked fine.

    as far as satisfaction goes. . . WOW i cant believe it helped as much as it did. i have no boost spiking from it but the wastegate flutter is significantly lower and the boost hits harder at a lower rpm and stays on a little longer.

    great mod. a must for any wrx.
    2002 bugeyes
    It just looks stock . . .

  12. #41
    Registered User WRXreX's Avatar
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    I tightened it 3 times and after a few hours of driving (no boost increase at all), I saw CEL on!

    I have Cobb stage2 by the way. I turned the setting back to stock and resetted ECU again. Wonder why this happened...

  13. #42
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    I adjusted my wastegate arm by 2 turns about 3 weeks ago.

    The first couple days, I experienced no wastegate flutter and no afterfire when downshifting or letting off the gas.

    Slowly however, the ecu seems to be compensating and the wastegate flutter is back as well as the afterfire.

    I've read on NASIOC that this is what usually happens, but some people have not seen the flutter return or have seen it come back to a lesser degree...
    03 Black WRX
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  14. #43
    Registered User GotRice7169's Avatar
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    Ok i was trying to do this today. I opened the hood and found the arm. I was wondering if its supposed to be a little bent? Mine isnt straight its slighty bent, ill get a picture of it when i can to show you guys, but I was wondering if thats a problem or not. Also what tool did you use to turn it? I couldnt seem to do it.
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  15. #44
    Registered User mourning_air's Avatar
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    The arm will be slightly bent in one spot, that's normal. Use a 10mm wrench to turn the bolt.
    <Ryan>
    '00 Silverthorn Metallic 2.5 RS
    '04 San Remo Red WRX Wagon

  16. #45
    Registered User GotRice7169's Avatar
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    oh you turn the bolt not the arm itself?
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