"The BIG BOV thread" (Where all bov question threads get merged) - Page 734

This is a discussion on "The BIG BOV thread" (Where all bov question threads get merged) within the Engine Modifications forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; well, BOV's aren't really a great investment with subi's in my opinion because all it does it make a different ...

  1. #10996
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    well, BOV's aren't really a great investment with subi's in my opinion because all it does it make a different WOOOSHH sound.

    I hear the stock bpvs can hold up to around 20 psi fine, but on one of my old 2g gsx's i had the hks ssqv ver2 and that was recirced which was okay people would say it sounded like my front tires were peeling out when i shifted.... and on the other 2g gsx i as well have (the cars still in the driveway, runs great) the greddy rs, the people around here don't really know much about cars so when you blow by them with a little fast and the furious churp from the BOV they scratch their heads.

    anyways, I am picking up an inter cooler off of an STI very soon, about 18% larger than the stock wrx tmic's and I will still be using the stock bpv but if i were to get a bov it would obviously have to be something loud and obnoxious just like the greddy rs.

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  3. #10997
    UnBanned Sinister's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Impreza2.0 View Post
    I have a 50/50 as they are usually called... it is a valve which has two outlet ports and a second valve which allows the use of one, both, or again only one vent, and I have mine set up with a trumpet and a return J pipe ala Samco kit. The valve is set to recirculate 95 percent to the return pipe, 5 percent to atmosphere, so the shift sound is something I can duplicate once I know I have it clean. I used to have it at 75 percent and 25 to atmosphere, and I feel more confident about shifting during higher boost take-offs so I quieted it. If you have an aftermarket intake, and have none of the original components, you get the VTA sound, and if you get rid of the "snorkus" in your fender on a standard OEM intake, it is a bit more noticeable. It is not so great for our cars to over-lean a stage one or untuned engine (untuned electronically, yes, that intake makes 3 or 4 hp to the wheels, but not the 15 you were promised, you need electronic management...)

    The BPV side is very quiet, like EJ said. VTA/BOV side is POWWWWW-SHHHhhhh!!

    If you have it and the engine tuned correctly... it will increase rate of discharge at shift points, and smooth your clutching, but experienced drivers with BPV are as fast. Most keep the stock piece, some hit 'em w/ a hammer... they claim it will take more boost, but it sounds off to me.

    I'm using a really ancient Apex'i design that somone copied, thankfully, since APex'i 50/50 BOVs didn't stay in production long. Mine's an "OBX" (about a 100 dollar unit)... kinda knockoffish background, but decent materials... I stripped it, cleaned it, polished it, and pray the castings are strong. It hasn't leaked, so my fingers are crossed... I only hit 17psi max boost through to 130mph. I could set to run 150s, but I need more hardware... my lil intercooler (cough cough)...

    I had an RS (Greddy, not a 2 door), and regret removing it now that I am down to the setting I am on with this "training valve" as I have learned that the trunpet is only good for teaching you how to shift without driving too fast. It stinks of fuel during shifts, and it is obnoxious.



    anyway, if you could have gotten a bov, tell us what kind it is... pic?
    Huh?
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  4. #10998
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    Hey

    Hey this is my first post, i am looking at a 100% atmospheric bov, is there one that won't mess with my ideling issues or run rich (not PIG rich ) to wreck anything.?

  5. #10999
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    Quote Originally Posted by Turkey
    Hey this is my first post, i am looking at a 100% atmospheric bov, is there one that won't mess with my ideling issues or run rich (not PIG rich ) to wreck anything.?
    A quality valve that is setup properly would suit your needs; Tial seems to be popular.
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  6. #11000
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    It is a given that you are going to be changing the air/fuel ratio when switching to a device which is not mechanically able to return unburned fuel to the intake flow. This means that your idle will fall faster between shifts (lean), and will possibly cause some shuddering during take-off (rich). It is best to use a 50/50 (half vent-to-atmosphere, half return to intake) or a fully reciprocal bypass valve (same as stock w/ higher boost capabilities)... and if you want that cool sound, get a snorkus delete and a short-ram intake. You will probably never need ANY of these things if you are working on making power... Your intake is good to 300hp, the snorkus is supposed to bring in dry air from outside of the engine bay (it's that elbow macaroni noodle of plastic that threads through the fender wall), and the valve you are looking for is not useful until you begin creating 18psi of boost or more. You can run as much as 18psi on the stock valve.

    I second EJ's recommendation for Tial, and there are a few more good ones, Greddy has a recirculating BPV, there are a bazillion cheap ones. Avoid knock-off parts. They cost more than they are worth, are cheap imitations of quality units, and are likely to fail due to flaws in the casting process used to simulate the forged bits used to create the real ones.

    Tial is all CNC'd forged, billet, and uses top end metals in every case. Same can be said for Greddy, Forge, Perrin, and there are more, it comes down to the sound you want, and how you want to be able to set it up. ALso, what you are willing to spend.

    The 50/50 lets you decide what you want. You might consider trying a 50/50 with an adjustment between outlets until you know how you want to tune. Most of us stick with recirculating/bypass. It is easier to tune for, and quieter... (You are gonna have one loud car once you have exhaust, turbo, intake, etc... a loud valve is just an excuse to get pulled over).

    I am using an ancient valve at 90% return... I am still learning how to shift, or I'd have a fully reciprocal return valve, and less stares from kids at intersections.

    Don't let anyone tell you it's dumb, if it is what you want, get it. I do recommend at least a panel filter (K&N drop in filter) if you are going to start on the intake side of your engine... it will add power, and you won't have to replace it. A BOV will not add power... it may be required for very high boost mods, and you will know when that comes along, your shop will inform you that your BPV popped, and that you need one with a stronger casing. I have never heard of anyone damaging a stock BPV using stock boost numbers.

  7. #11001
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    ive never heard of anyone damaging a stock bpv, period.
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  8. #11002
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    Quote Originally Posted by Turkey View Post
    Hey this is my first post, i am looking at a 100% atmospheric bov, is there one that won't mess with my ideling issues or run rich (not PIG rich ) to wreck anything.?
    In my opinion, there's no need for a vented "Blow FOO Valve." no reason to upgrade it now if its going to be the first thing you're installing.

  9. #11003
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rogan View Post
    ive never heard of anyone damaging a stock bpv, period.
    By using it normally or on purpose?
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  10. #11004
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mikie13 View Post
    By using it normally or on purpose?
    sure, I imagine you could use a hammer on it, or an air compressor and inject 100psi into the actuator port, and blow the diaphram out.. but under normal or realisticly high boost apps, You'd be hard-pressed to "damage" it..

    Unless I'm missing something LOL
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  11. #11005
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    Hey

    Alright, so what is a good 50 50 bov, looking for a the *classic* sound. loud but useable.

    2005 wrx sti any suggestions…

  12. #11006
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    Quote Originally Posted by Turkey View Post
    Alright, so what is a good 50 50 bov, looking for a the *classic* sound. loud but useable.

    2005 wrx sti any suggestions…
    APS and TIAL are the only two BOV's I would recommend. APS has a 50/50
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  13. #11007
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rogan View Post
    sure, I imagine you could use a hammer on it, or an air compressor and inject 100psi into the actuator port, and blow the diaphram out.. but under normal or realisticly high boost apps, You'd be hard-pressed to "damage" it..

    Unless I'm missing something LOL
    Yeah its around quite a bit...hammering the bastard with a ballpeen hammer until its caved in some is somehow a way to get the stocker to handle over 25psi (not that I'd ever do it). Search around Nasioc and I guarantee you'll find something on it.
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  14. #11008
    Geriatric Ginger Mod Rogan's Avatar
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    I'm quite familiar (and experienced) in crushing the hats down to gain PSI levels. I first did one in late 90s, using a DSM one.
    Rogan o_0
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  15. #11009
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rogan View Post
    I'm quite familiar (and experienced) in crushing the hats down to gain PSI levels. I first did one in late 90s, using a DSM one.
    I don't think I could risk thousands in motor damage because I'm too cheap to buy a 200 dollar BOV.
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  16. #11010
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sinister View Post
    I don't think I could risk thousands in motor damage because I'm too cheap to buy a 200 dollar BOV.
    I'd test them with compressed air, PRIOR to installing. But I know what you mean. Back when I was doing them, BOV's weren't "cheap"..

    But it's kinda like when I modded my injectors.. I've always been one of those to say "yeah, I can buy the part, but I'd like to see what I can do with modding what I have, first.."

    sometimes it pays off, sometimes not. sometimes, correcting it takes more money that if I'd just bought the right part in the first place. But where's the fun in that?
    Rogan o_0
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    '01 Dodge 2500 CTD 6-holed hand-shaker - 3850# dual disk - 900 lb/ft - SOLD
    '97 Dodge 3500 CTD DUALLY built Auto - 40psi boosties - 750 lb/ft

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