"The BIG BOV thread" (Where all bov question threads get merged) - Page 673
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This is a discussion on "The BIG BOV thread" (Where all bov question threads get merged) within the Engine Modifications forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; Originally Posted by wrxtreme06 yes. put your stock bypass valve back on Only true remedy......

  1. #10081
    Pro Manscaper Mikie13's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wrxtreme06 View Post
    yes. put your stock bypass valve back on
    Only true remedy...
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    Registered User soundwave2.0's Avatar
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    so an aftermarket BPV is the way to go? I'm going Stage 2 soon also. But if the factory valve is good to 20psi, why should I need an aftermarket BPV if Stage 2 is going to be around 17psi? Would a new stock valve be just as good?
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    Master Baiter EJ257's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DVSWReX
    so an aftermarket BPV is the way to go? I'm going Stage 2 soon also. But if the factory valve is good to 20psi, why should I need an aftermarket BPV if Stage 2 is going to be around 17psi? Would a new stock valve be just as good?
    Yes. You can get them relatively cheap (or even an even swap).

    If it doesn't support your boost level, then go aftermarket.
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    Quote Originally Posted by DVSWReX View Post
    so an aftermarket BPV is the way to go? I'm going Stage 2 soon also. But if the factory valve is good to 20psi, why should I need an aftermarket BPV if Stage 2 is going to be around 17psi? Would a new stock valve be just as good?
    I would and did picked up my new BPV last week. I bought a TurboXS BPV off of Spun Autosports for something like $170 brand new still in the box. I normally see them for over $200 and I got mine in about 3 days. I haven't installed it yet, but it looks to be a high quality piece of hardware.

    I am x-ing my fingers that with it I'll finally be able to hit 17psi on Stg1 tune. But either way I am going stg2 this or next week after I get my Borla catback... and if it turns out that the stock BPV is a piece of crap, then it will help with my stg1 and then stg2, and also when I get a new turbo setup hopefully before summer is over.

  7. #10086
    Registered User WRXDuncan's Avatar
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    Turbo XS hybrid BOV

    Does anyone know how the turbo xs hybrid bov works? any problems? thx

  8. #10087
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    Would a new stock valve be just as good?
    That is what I was going to suggest. According to the picture of your avatar, you have a 2002 and the valve might just be worn out. My WRX was equipped with a TD0518G 8cm^2 and was pushing 20psi on the stock valve. It held fine, but after selling the car and buying a STI, I noticed the much newer stock valve performed and sounded better. BTW my old WRX was Sedona Red too

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    Of course it works, but the VTA aspect of it will still cause some issues - however, it will not be as bad as a 100% VTA BOV
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    Quote Originally Posted by Micah View Post
    Nothing short of changing the car over from MAF based tuning to MAP based tuning is going to resolve the issue.

    MAF reads air - ECU sends fuel - BOV V's TA - engine still gets fuel but with nowhere near the air expected. Fuel doesn't combust properly, and excess fuel now strips oil from cylinder walls then get's blown out in the exhaust. Car runs obscenely rich for a moment, may stall. Excess Fuel and Oil is damaging to catalyst in exhaust. Increased cylinder friction and temps for a moment. Increased oil consumption.
    actually, you CAN tune an oem ecu to be able to handle a VTA BOV.

    first, you have to disable LTFT. don't worry: the STFT will still work just fine to keep idle at stoich. (you'd also better have a well tuned open loop section, but that goes without saying.)

    second you have to disable any injector cutoff delay. this adjusts how quickly the car will cut injector on time to zero during times when RPM > idle and TPS < idle. basically this occurs every time you lift off the throttle and shift.

    with those two things in place the ecu will shut off the injectors during the vent to atmosphere... as long as you lift off the throttle completely (which is generally the case).

    additionally the lack of LTFT will prevent any residual AFR errors caused by the VTA to accumulate over time.

    if you can't wrap your head around every term and acronym i've used in this post, don't even think about trying to do this yourself.

    fwiw,
    ken

    ps. i use an oem bpv that has the "tms" pressure port relocation mod. tested perfect up to 27psig.
    Last edited by ride5000; 07-15-2008 at 05:46 AM.

  11. #10090
    Geriatric Ginger Mod Rogan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ride5000 View Post
    if you can't wrap your head around every term and acronym i've used in this post, don't even think about trying to do this yourself.

    fwiw,
    ken
    what's that acronym? j/k
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  12. #10091
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    Quote Originally Posted by ride5000 View Post
    actually, you CAN tune an oem ecu to be able to handle a VTA BOV.

    first, you have to disable LTFT. don't worry: the STFT will still work just fine to keep idle at stoich. (you'd also better have a well tuned open loop section, but that goes without saying.)

    second you have to disable any injector cutoff delay. this adjusts how quickly the car will cut injector on time to zero during times when RPM > idle and TPS < idle. basically this occurs every time you lift off the throttle and shift.

    with those two things in place the ecu will shut off the injectors during the vent to atmosphere... as long as you lift off the throttle completely (which is generally the case).

    additionally the lack of LTFT will prevent any residual AFR errors caused by the VTA to accumulate over time.

    if you can't wrap your head around every term and acronym i've used in this post, don't even think about trying to do this yourself.

    fwiw,
    ken

    ps. i use an oem bpv that has the "tms" pressure port relocation mod. tested perfect up to 27psig.
    I thought that LTFT and STFT were supposed to basically work with each other to a balanced point. I've read of people disabling LTFT, but I'm not the tuner type and never really cared enough to research the pro's and con's of disabling it. If you'd like - please flesh this out for myself and others.

    Some easy reading for those interested in how LTFT and STFT work together: Mixture and adaptation .
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  13. #10092
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rogan View Post
    what's that acronym? j/k
    "For what it's worth."
    Urban Dictionary: fwiw

  14. #10093
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    recirculating kit?

    iwas thinking of an hks ssq bov,and i found they make recirculating kits for them,do these actually work?

  15. #10094
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    Some air will be recirculated, but not all of it. So your car will still not perform at 100%. Read up on BOV's.

    http://www.clubwrx.net/forums/engine...ov-thread.html
    2005 WRB WRX "was" STAGE 2

  16. #10095
    "Supreme Subaphile Extraordinairre" ninefourteener's Avatar
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    I've had good luck with my GFB (better than HKS).

    It's a 50/50 recirc.

    no negative effects whatsoever.

    However, don't expect an improvement. They are essentially useless as anything other than a noisemaker. So long as you're aware of that, you know what you're getting into.
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