"The BIG BOV thread" (Where all bov question threads get merged) - Page 359

This is a discussion on "The BIG BOV thread" (Where all bov question threads get merged) within the Engine Modifications forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; Originally Posted by Blue EJ20 WRX I'm not sure about the FMIC deal, but a Bypass Valve is what the ...

  1. #5371
    Registered User airsofter69's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blue EJ20 WRX
    I'm not sure about the FMIC deal, but a Bypass Valve is what the WRX and STi come with. It's pretty much the same thing as a Blow Off Valve. They're used to release pressure (that the turbocharger makes) when you let off the throttle under boost/in between shifts. The stock BPV is 100% recirculation, so the air is sent back through to the intake (I belive). Most Blow Off Valves are atmospheric (they vent the air into the atmosphere), but some are recirculation.
    BPV: when the throttle plate closes the boost pressure is released back into the intotrack just infront of the turbocharger outlet...this is better as it allows the car to spool up faster between shifts cause its reusing past boost...

    BOV: When the throttle plate closes the boost pressure is released into the atmosphere...(this is where you get the pssshttt) sound from.... This makes our cars run rich inbetween shifts... im not sure how it would affect a fmic...but as far as i know most people with fmic are running BOVs...

    Hybrin BOV...this type of bov/bpv releases a specific percent of the boost pressure into the atmosphere and back into the intake...ie: 50%to atmo/50%to recirc....u can also have 75/25 or 100%

    So yea i hope that helps alot....also try searching fro BPV and BOV youll find lots of great into...
    Pete
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  3. #5372
    Registered User matiyas1166's Avatar
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    Question Exhaust leak....BOV???

    How do u know if u have an exhaust leak????? It looks like my downpipe isnt fitting flush to the back of mu turbo.... and with the turbo xs type h bov should the screws go through the metal on the adapter and shouldnt there be washers of some sort.... i just want to make sure that i dont have any leaks anywhere whats the best way to find out???

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    u can hear it, and it sounds like a$$. i have one i think in my downpipe and i REALLY need to get that fixed soon cuz it sounds like a diesel truck

  5. #5374
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    what BOV is this?

    im asking about the turbo XS BOV...is it the type H? or the RFL?

    http://www.mvdsl.com/~fabian/bov.wmv

  6. #5375
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    more than likely the RFL....the H isn't supposed to be as loud....
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  7. #5376
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    BOV install went wrong..

    Hello everyone, can some one tell me what serious problem I might have.

    Just got my BOV TurboXS RFL installed today. Everything went well until I tried to tight the 2 12mm bold that secure the BOV to the IC. First of I realize that the adapter of the TurboXS BOV (FLANG?) is much thinner than the stock one, so I think the bolt was kind a long to use it on the TurboXS flang.

    As i was trying to tight it I think it got to the end of the IC, but there were still gab so I force it in (Stupid me). I put a lot amount of force to push that bolt in and enough force to brake something inside the IC. I didn't think anything of it until I start the car and drove about 5 min.

    While I was driving all of the sudden I hear a really loud ticking noise came out of the engine but no CEL came out. So i stop turn off the car, look under the hood and decided to drive the car home. A few second right after I start up the car the ticking noise went away. Phewww! So I drove hard for a little longer with no problem.

    Did I do any damage inside my engine? Should I change the engine oil to make what ever went inside my engine come off?

    Please help.

  8. #5377
    Moderator MidKnight's Avatar
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    I did something similar on my top mount and it turned out that I stripped part of the thread on the topmount where the bolt goes in. I can't imagine that you managed to break something and drop it in the motor. I would check those bolts to see if they're loose or sitting weird. Take them out and reinstall them... consider maybe getting shorter bolts...
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  9. #5378
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    Well I check and now theres a hole on the Top mount where the bolt is ( its an STI top mount btw). The bolt sit straight and the thread is perfectly fine.

    If something drop in the engine wouldn't the engine will ticking none stop, and the CEL suppose to flash ? In my case the ticking noise came out really loud and then went away. Drove it again today and no noise. Im really hoping it will stay that way because i just save up enough money to put new Turbo/FP/Injector in.
    Last edited by wrscoob; 07-08-2005 at 06:39 AM.

  10. #5379
    Registered User TheBoostCreep's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wrscoob
    Hello everyone, can some one tell me what serious problem I might have.
    Quote Originally Posted by wrscoob
    Just got my BOV TurboXS RFL installed today.
    there ya go.

    hehe, j/k.
    I'm TheBoostCreep, and I approved this message.

  11. #5380
    Registered User WRX-ERROR's Avatar
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    You sure you didn't leave a wrench of socket in the engine bay? I have a habit of doing it. If so maybe it was hitting something then finally fell off.. Just a thought.
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  12. #5381
    Administrator Trainrex's Avatar
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    If something metalic was sucked into your engine, you most definately did damage.

  13. #5382
    Registered User Family Guy's Avatar
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    I dropped a nut into my motor once when I had my Pathfinder (bout 10 years ago) as soon as the nut unloged itselft from the throttle body it destroyed the motor, you would know if that happened.
    Now: 04 WRB STi (stock)

  14. #5383
    Registered User 400HPClubWRX's Avatar
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    i have the Type RFL and i never had a problem with the bolt being a size issure with the top mount, maybe you didnt put the gasket back and that got sucked into ur engine bay and got kicked around a bit, no worries, if your car idles ok and there are no CEL, it should be fine. no need for an oil change

  15. #5384
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    Thanks.. its not the gasket its the dyam stupid bolt that was use when the shop rebuild my engine. I think the mechanic use different bolt, probably use the bolt that secure the IC to the engine .

    Anyway guys thanks for the help. Just spoke to one of my mechanic friend and he told me that I dont need to worry since my car still running and because the IC are made out of a aluminum so once it go inside the engine it will melt(?) Car seems normal ..

    Nice setup 400hpclubwrx.. wish I can get my car to be that much.
    Last edited by wrscoob; 07-08-2005 at 11:20 PM.

  16. #5385
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    yeah chances are if something metallic passed through your engine you did some kind of damage. changing your oil won't do anything for you if the piece of metal came from the inside of your intercooler. changing oil would tell you whether there was metal in your engine from things like bearing and cams and ods and pistons, things that are lubricated with oil. now something may have passed completely through your engine without doing damage, i've seen it happen before but on chevy small blocks with huge valves and retarded amounts of lift. the other thing is if it did pass through you most certainly did damage to your turbo unless you still have a cat before it then its just sitting there in your header/uppipe or lodged in the honeycomb of your cat. you can drop your header and uppipe and see if anythings rattling around in there or is wedged in the front of your cat. internal engine damage (if any) would more than likely be on either the top of the piston, maybe a dent, or to your heads, be it valve face or mating surface on the exhaust port. do a compression and leakdown test (dry so you don't potentially glog up any tiny leak in the exhaust valve mating surfaces) and see if you get any big differences in one cylinder. your compression test shouldn't yield numbers too different unless its a big leak but cylinder leak down will tell you a wealth of info on whether a certain cylinder is holding pressure or not. hope this helps.

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