"The BIG BOV thread" (Where all bov question threads get merged) - Page 298

This is a discussion on "The BIG BOV thread" (Where all bov question threads get merged) within the Engine Modifications forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; Originally Posted by ma1ade I'm reading all this and despite the hundreds of words there doesn't seem to be any ...

  1. #4456
    Administrator Trainrex's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Posts
    26,591
    I Support ClubWRX
    Quote Originally Posted by ma1ade
    I'm reading all this and despite the hundreds of words there doesn't seem to be any actual conclusions based on anything besides opinion. The biggest point the 100% atmo bov "haters" seem to be making is that the car runs rich momentarily (true) as it shows up on a wbo2. However, put it into context where you are actually driving. You are ending 2nd gear, shift (woosh) you run rich. Common knowledge dictates that running rich = less power. This loss of power though comes in between shifts. As soon as you are on the gas again after the shift the small amount of time that you were rich is over. It wouldn't matter if a car is making 1000 hp in between shifts because it isn't power that will ever see the pavement. Any problems that I've ever heard of coming from BOVs seem to be guilt by association or OE. I have never once had the engine stutter after a shift or bog due to the BOV. When installed correctly and adjusted properly you get a very nice noise maker with no effects anymore adverse than a silencer delete.


    +1 opinion reply
    I had the opposite experience with mine. I bought a used RFL purely to see what it would do to the car. My conclusion? The car is much smoother with the factory recirc. valve. No matter how many washers were in it, it stumbled in between shifts and on/off throttle in gear. Not worth it just to make noise. I sold it a day later on Ebay for more than I paid for it
    Moral of the story? If you are picky about your car running 100%, don't get one. If you aren't picky, and you need the noise, you will be a happy camper

  2. Remove Advertisements
    ClubWRX.net
    Advertisements
     

  3. #4457
    Registered User cheeseybacon's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Chambersburg, PA
    Posts
    5,001
    One annoying aspect of atmosphere BOVs (and a result of running rich between shifts) that I didn't see mentioned are the little blurps of flame that can sometimes be seen at night on fully catless cars. Having a loud exhaust and noisy BOV makes the police notice your car as it is, the last thing you need is visible squirts of flame out the back end at night.
    ΜOΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ

  4. #4458
    Registered User EtherealWRX's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Downey
    Posts
    675
    *shrug* some people like the flame. Gives those lazy cops some incentive.
    Have a Greddy Evo 2 cat-back Exhaust system, willing to trade for: Greddy Ti, Apex'I N1, or Apex;I GT cat-backs. California only! PM if interested!

  5. #4459
    Registered User CKxx's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Pennsylvania
    Posts
    2,522
    Quote Originally Posted by MidKnight
    Again, a BOV won't hurt your engine, but it can hurt performance. The rich condition an atmospheric bov creates is real. A lot of people don't care, but it is there.
    +5

    On my car, TXSstg2, the bov (aftermarket, atmospheric) did nothing but slow me down. After each high speed shift it took time for boost to build back up. Once I went back to stock the needle on my greddy guage could barely keep up w/how quick boost was 're-estalished'

  6. #4460
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    479
    yes i'm calling you a n00b. you have displayed the characteristics of n00b. (w0w i just got a wrx lemme bov it) i told you what the answer most likely is. if you want to bov a stock car with a up cat go right ahead. you probably wont blow ur turbo but if you do, was it worth the risk?

  7. #4461
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    479
    does anyone care that some guys on nasioc had blown engines? its been proven mathematically that the cat can break up (not the actual cat but the glue that lines it to hold it in place) and that the cat can move towards the turbo and ultimately fall in.

    the temps when unburnt fuel hit the cat are really high

  8. #4462
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    MI
    Posts
    414
    hey, at least i have intelligence and a willingness to accept fallibility working on my side...

    Honestly, i donít know how to respond to your post be cause it was such a vague flame, i can't even choose a coherent sentence to respond to.
    Havenít you noticed a very technical discussion occurring between dark_rex and myself for quite a few posts in this thread?
    Its not easy stuff and is fairly detailed; even for me and i spent weeks in auto labs learning how these sensors work.
    I fail to see your correlation between me, a person with a formal education in automotive classes and someone entirely new to cars?
    (Just incase you were wondering, Noob is not short for Nubian princess. its a slang internet term that means one is new to something; ignorant, etc. with time, the spelling has gotten increasingly further from the original, newbie )
    like i said, there is a seperate post for this topic, please take it there.

  9. #4463
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    MI
    Posts
    414
    Quote Originally Posted by Trainrex
    I had the opposite experience with mine. I bought a used RFL purely to see what it would do to the car. My conclusion? The car is much smoother with the factory recirc. valve. No matter how many washers were in it, it stumbled in between shifts and on/off throttle in gear. Not worth it just to make noise. I sold it a day later on Ebay for more than I paid for it
    Moral of the story? If you are picky about your car running 100%, don't get one. If you aren't picky, and you need the noise, you will be a happy camper
    Anecdotal evidence does suggest that that brand (design) of bov is a major contrubuting factor to its functionality.

    i really dont recomend you got out and try more (unless you need to), but there may be a bov that functions perfectly or one could possibly be made. i haven't encountered it though.

  10. #4464
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    MI
    Posts
    414
    Quote Originally Posted by burrito007
    does anyone care that some guys on nasioc had blown engines? its been proven mathematically that the cat can break up (not the actual cat but the glue that lines it to hold it in place) and that the cat can move towards the turbo and ultimately fall in.

    the temps when unburnt fuel hit the cat are really high
    can you inform me of which type of "glue" subaru uses on its cats? it would also be helpful if you would post the equation so that we can check the work.
    (sorry if this is a n00b question )

  11. #4465
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    128
    Quote Originally Posted by BigClunke
    no kidding. so these headers dont fit around the oil pan and need the subframe modified. sounds like alot more work than i had hoped for...

    the subframe is not in the way when it comes to it hitting the oil pan but yeah you need to dent the subframe in, yeah i was trying to decide if i should dent the pan or the header, im afraid if i hit the pan it will crack, dent or something stupid, i think a SLIGHT dent wont be to bad on the header, id rather not however im sure a dent in the header is more effiecent then the stock ****, so yeah it sucks but apparently from what ive seen many headers do this. the only ones that dont are the cusco, and greddy i beleive, the difference is that on those models the pipes actually bend out further in more of a round shape. there is no reason the megan headers could not have been made this way. you only need a slight gap to let air pass through, a direct touch is probably about 300 degrees hotter than actually touching the pan. its so close literally about the thickness of a lead pencils' lead. 0.7mm yall know what im talking about.

  12. #4466
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Location
    sandiego
    Posts
    676
    (Just incase you were wondering, Noob is not short for Nubian princess. its a slang internet term that means one is new to something; ignorant, etc. with time, the spelling has gotten increasingly further from the original, newbie )
    like i said, there is a seperate post for this topic, please take it there.[/QUOTE]


    i love nubian princess..
    i only live for 1 thing and that is to spend money.

  13. #4467
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    MI
    Posts
    414
    Quote Originally Posted by scoobaru
    the subframe is not in the way when it comes to it hitting the oil pan but yeah you need to dent the subframe in, yeah i was trying to decide if i should dent the pan or the header, im afraid if i hit the pan it will crack, dent or something stupid, i think a SLIGHT dent wont be to bad on the header, id rather not however im sure a dent in the header is more effiecent then the stock ****, so yeah it sucks but apparently from what ive seen many headers do this. the only ones that dont are the cusco, and greddy i beleive, the difference is that on those models the pipes actually bend out further in more of a round shape. there is no reason the megan headers could not have been made this way. you only need a slight gap to let air pass through, a direct touch is probably about 300 degrees hotter than actually touching the pan. its so close literally about the thickness of a lead pencils' lead. 0.7mm yall know what im talking about.
    can't say i know exactly what your talking about, but it sounds like a bummer to me.
    your third option would be to take it it an exhaust shop and get the tube bent out of the way (probably more trouble than its worth once installed).
    out of the two options, i would dent the headers before the oil pan. messing with the oil pan could lead to infinatly more trouble (oil leaks suck!) than denting the headers could cause you. a small dent wont have an apreciable affect on performance. i wouldnt sweat it.
    (i havent ever seen the pan off of the car, i cant comment on its structual integrity but people do use it to suport the engine while installling their up pipe, it seems pretty strong and i would stay away)

  14. #4468
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    MI
    Posts
    414
    i was just thinking...
    i bet if you jammed a large diameter chisel in between that small gap, it might bend the header enough so that there is no smashing involved (you could even heat the tube with a torch if its being difficult).
    i dont like this smashing idea

  15. #4469
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    128

    possible

    however i am worried about the wedge affect, see the sliding motion could possibly crack it i understand the idea and i thought it through myself i dont like the dent idea either on either side, but oh jesus. i tell ya yeah the wedge idea could work quite effectively like a wide screwdriver however that pipe is seriously insanly strong, i was thinking take a block of wood and make a long but small bend in the pipe this is crap, i called megan and they said they have never encountered it, lol typical PR move

  16. #4470
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    128

    oh yeah there no gap at all between the pan

    cant even get a piece of paper between it

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •