"The BIG BOV thread" (Where all bov question threads get merged) - Page 20
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This is a discussion on "The BIG BOV thread" (Where all bov question threads get merged) within the Engine Modifications forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; So I installed my silver GFB BOV that I bought off BigRich who is also a WRXclub member. I thought ...

  1. #286
    Moderating U! KurleeDaddeeWRX's Avatar
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    So I installed my silver GFB BOV that I bought off BigRich who is also a WRXclub member. I thought this one was going to be easy. Yeah it would have been easy if I would have set it up for 100%. But I really felt that the 50/50 would work better and would not allow the engine to run TOO rich.

    So I take the old BOV off and take off the steel downpipe piece. No problem. Take my GFB out of the box, open up my tool box. WHERE THE HELL ARE MY ALLEN WRENCHES!!!!. For the next hour I am yelling and screaming and throwing stuff around trying to find an allen wrench that fits. First make sure you have all the tools you need before you do this assembly. Finally found one after lots of cussing. Problem #1.

    Took the side plate off the GFB and took the downpipe from the stock one. Put it in place. Wait, why doesn't it fit into the BOV snuggly. There is a nipple on the inner pipe coupling of the down pipe that is put into the GFB and the GFB has no notch cut out for it. So I used the phillips screws that came out of the stock BOV, since they are longer, and screwed them down, a couple turns at a time until they both of the bodys were flush. Thank god the GFB is made out of soft metal. Problem #2.

    Instead of using the crappy butterfly clamp, I used a hose clamp. I got it onto the hose, got the BOV and tried to put them together. Well how the hell do you get the leverage underneath the return hose and then push the BOV downpipe on. I struggled with this for about a half an hour, taking breaks to scream and cuss and spike tools. Problem #3.

    Finally, I took the down pipe off of the BOV, inserted it into the return hose, tightened the hose clamp with a 8mm socket and a ratchet, a very small ratchet. The put the BOV main body up against the downpipe, and very carefully threaded the screws into each hole. Now came the hardest part. Since there is NO room at all to get a screw driver in that small space to tighten the screws, I took a phillips screwdriver insert for a multi screwdriver and used a boxed end wrench to tighten them up. And after more screaming and losing 3 inserts it was finally toghther.

    So I go to push the BOV up against the body of the intercooler. It won't fit because the BOV is bigger than the space between the metals lines running in front of the intercooler and the intake manifold. So I had to loosen all three 10mm bolts the hold the metals lines in front of the intercoolerand raise them up a bit, put the BOV in place and tighten the bolts down and then reinstall the 10mm bolts for the lines. I installed the BOV vaccuum hose started up the car listened for leaks. NONE! Took it for a drive. I like it. Not too loud but noticeable.

    Sorry this post is so long but I wanted to share all the problems I had installing this BOV and sharing my experience so it won't be so hard for other people. And because I wanted to vent all my frustrations to everyone else here.

    I should have just intalled it to 100% and saved myself 2 1/2 hours.

    Kurlee Daddee
    (THE ORIGINAL)
    Last edited by KurleeDaddeeWRX; 05-11-2002 at 11:19 PM.

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  3. #287
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    Yea man...those sound like the same problems that I had. Getting leverage to plug the BOV into the recirc hose is a *****...you need to grab the recirc hose and pull it up as far as itll go with 2 hands....and brute force it onto the BOV. I originally used a screw hose clamp...but when I found out that you can lock the stock one open...I went back and put it back on. Congrats on the install...you are not the only one that had problems

  4. #288
    Registered User ticrab's Avatar
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    Welcome aboard! (talking about something that you plan to work on for 10 minutes and something goes worng... )

    Hey, can you set it up to 100% to see what it looks like? Just kidding.
    WRX by Nature
    www.fresnowrx.com

  5. #289
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    Blow off Valve

    Does installing void factory warranty

  6. #290
    Registered User PlatinumWRX's Avatar
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    Please check your Private Messages.

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    Moderating U! KurleeDaddeeWRX's Avatar
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    I have noticed since I have changed my BOV that when I slow down to an idle, like going over the speedbumps at my apartment complex, the engine goes a little below 750 rpms and sounds like it is going to die almost. It doesn't actually die but it sounds like it is going to. Does anyone else have this problem? I thought it might be a vaccuum leak but I have been watching my boost gauge and it is steady -61 to -58 hkpa at idle. Anyone care to explain. Also at freeway speeds the boost gauge is steady.

    It sure hauls a$$ in first and 2nd gear now though.

    If it is a vaccuum leak, does anyone know the part number for the gasket in between the intercooler and the BOV?

    Kurlee Daddee
    (THE ORIGINAL)
    Last edited by KurleeDaddeeWRX; 05-13-2002 at 06:07 PM.

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    Moderating U! KurleeDaddeeWRX's Avatar
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    Well it was bugging the hell out of me thinking about a vaccuum leak on a brand new car. So I went to Kragen and bought a bottle of Carb Cleaner to find my vaccuum leaks. I learned this a long time ago with my knowledge of air cooled VW's and V8's. So I sprayed it on all circumferences of the BOV, return line and steel downpipe, and blow off valve hose and vaccuum T where I hooked up my boost gauge. If there would have been a leak the engine would have jumped up in idle speed. Nothing happened. And I gave all seals a heavy dose of Carb Cleaner.

    I also noticed that the idle goes down past 750rpm when I give it about 1k to 1.2k of throttle after I let it settle down to idle. Maybe it blows out some of the air from the intake tract and has to pull more air in to replace the lost air. But I have been watching my TT and it never goes under -52 hkpa. Any other suggestions?

    Or maybe it could be the 3/16" vaccuum connector I installed? Just a thought.

    Kurlee Daddee
    (THE ORIGINAL)
    Last edited by KurleeDaddeeWRX; 05-13-2002 at 06:09 PM.

  9. #293
    Registered User PlatinumWRX's Avatar
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    KD,

    Do you have your GFB BOV recirculating or on 100% atm vent?

    If you are on 100% atm vent, try adjusting it closer to 50% vent. This should cure your low engine speed problem.

    -Jim

  10. #294
    Moderating U! KurleeDaddeeWRX's Avatar
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    So at lunch today I went out, reset the ECU and lubricated the piston inside of the horn of the BOV. Went for a drive and came back. Same thing, idle went down and then up.

    QUESTION FOR ALL: At idle should the piston be all the way closed? Meaning, you should not see a space between the bronze piston and the bottom body of the BOV. Mine is not closing and is allowing air to seep out at idle. That is why the idle goes down. I think it may need some spacers to make the spring function better or a stiffer spring. If it is going to be too much trouble I will take out this MF'n BOV and go back to the old one. What a PITA.
    Kurlee Daddee
    (THE ORIGINAL)

  11. #295
    Registered User PlatinumWRX's Avatar
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    Originally posted by KurleeDaddeeWRX
    QUESTION FOR ALL: At idle should the piston be all the way closed? Meaning, you should not see a space between the bronze piston and the bottom body of the BOV. Mine is not closing and is allowing air to seep out at idle. That is why the idle goes down. I think it may need some spacers to make the spring function better or a stiffer spring. If it is going to be too much trouble I will take out this MF'n BOV and go back to the old one. What a PITA.
    Kurlee Daddee
    (THE ORIGINAL)
    At idle, the piston should MOST DEFINITELY BE CLOSED. Your BOV is not working properly. The GFB BOV does require spacers and/or a stiffer spring for the WRX, as I recall. You aren't the first person to report these issues with the valve. Reinstall the stock unit and return it. I'd buy a Forge, Blitz, or APS unit if I were you.

    -Jim

  12. #296
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    HKS SQ bov adjusting????

    I was wondering how to make the bov louder.I turned the adjusting bolt all the way out and in ...but im not sure which setting would make it the loudest.I cant seem to tell... if anyone could help me I would appreciate it. Thanks
    "They came they saw they lost"

    02 Plat WRX:
    AutoMeter Boost Guage
    HKS SSQ bov
    Joe P MBC
    Blitz SUS Intake
    TurboXS Unichip on the way....

  13. #297
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    P.S anyone know what those inserts you can get do?Im guessing sound difference.Anyone have one?
    "They came they saw they lost"

    02 Plat WRX:
    AutoMeter Boost Guage
    HKS SSQ bov
    Joe P MBC
    Blitz SUS Intake
    TurboXS Unichip on the way....

  14. #298
    Moderating U! KurleeDaddeeWRX's Avatar
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    I know you guys are getting tired of all my GFB BOV talk but I got stuff to share with you all. So I took off my GFB, which is what Platinum suggested to do and put the stock one back on. It accelerates a lot smoother now and does not get that weird idle like my old one. I did do the ECU reset when I swapped BOV's. This time it only took me a half an hour. But I did it on a hot engine. Man my hands are burnt. I was pressed for time.

    But the main reason for this email is I sent some questions to customer support at GFB in Australia and this is what happened:

    My Question Was/
    I bought a GFB BOV for my 2002 Subaru Impreza WRX US spec off of someone for $125 and I thought I was going to be happy. I installed it 50/50, and when the engine idles, the piston does not close all the way and almost makes the engine die. Is there any way to increase the spring tension. Like an adjuster. I have been talking to people and they suggested using spacers above the spring to make it increase the tension. Is there anything else I can do. I have check for vaccuum leaks on all seals and edges and there are NO LEAKS. Please help me./

    And Their Response was/
    Do you know who the retailer is or was this second hand? All you need to do is increase the spring pre-load, which you have been correctly informed can be done with spacers. The quick fix is to use a washer under the cap (be careful removing the cap, it WILL spring off and the chances of losing a screw is very good), one about 2mm thick should do the trick. We do have a thicker spring spacer available , but if your valve is from the new batch it will do you no good since the new valves are all fitted with the thick spacer already.

    My advice is to remove the valve cap, and check the thickness of the existing spacer on top of the spring. The old spacer is 3.5mm thick (total), and the new one is 5.5mm. If it is the 5.5mm then you will need a washer.

    Regards,

    Regards,
    Brett Turner
    Engineer/Technical Sales
    Go Fast Bits

    Hope this could be helpful to anyone experiencing the same problems.

    Kurlee Daddee
    (THE ORIGINAL)

  15. #299
    Registered User Mad WRX's Avatar
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    My GFB BOV should be in today, I'll let you guys know if I have any problems with it.

  16. #300
    Registered User pace's Avatar
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    Kurlee - Thanks for the update. That's good information. I'm thinking of going with either the GFB or APS unit.

    -Pace

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