"The BIG BOV thread" (Where all bov question threads get merged) - Page 129
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This is a discussion on "The BIG BOV thread" (Where all bov question threads get merged) within the Engine Modifications forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; Nice set up you got there....

  1. #1921
    Banned Mili727's Avatar
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    Nice set up you got there.

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  3. #1922
    Registered User BassMan097's Avatar
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    thanks
    2004 R32: 220 whp

    For Sale: 2003 wrx
    376 whp @ 22 psi, 93 octane

    Pics:
    http://www.cardomain.com/id/badassrex

  4. #1923
    Banned Mili727's Avatar
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    Where would one pick up a Tial BOV?

  5. #1924
    Registered User WRXin''s Avatar
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    Originally posted by Mili727
    Where would one pick up a Tial BOV?
    Godspeed
    Fahd

    Floats like a butterfly and stings like when I pee!

  6. #1925
    Registered User BassMan097's Avatar
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    Originally posted by Mili727
    Where would one pick up a Tial BOV?
    I got mine from Turbotrix Racing in NJ. They also welded the flange on for me.


    http://www.turbotrix.com
    2004 R32: 220 whp

    For Sale: 2003 wrx
    376 whp @ 22 psi, 93 octane

    Pics:
    http://www.cardomain.com/id/badassrex

  7. #1926
    God
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    Originally posted by BassMan097
    oh, btw dan, this is dave...We finally got the car to stop knocking on the dyno (the power dip is gone), but she still knocks on the highway with very conservative timing (no more than 22-23 degrees), and the air/fuel is perfectly straight at 10.9-11.2. Cant really figure out why it does that, perhaps something to do with more air being read by the MAF sensor on the highway than on the dyno, and therefore making it run lean????
    It's common to have to back off the timing a bit on the road but I never see 22 degrees at redline. How much boost are you seeing? Remember, boost pressure increases on the road a bit compared to the dyno. E-mail me or give me a ring Dave and I'll see about getting you a bit more power.
    Daniel Ponze, Lead Tuner Tuning Factory, Inc.
    PH: (248) 477-0700___FX: (248) 477-0701

  8. #1927
    Registered User Beasts's Avatar
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    Personally I don't know if the Blitz SUS is the way to go or not. Check the Blitz SUS Topic and you can make your own decision.

  9. #1928
    Moderating U! KurleeDaddeeWRX's Avatar
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    Originally posted by BassMan097
    I got mine from Turbotrix Racing in NJ. They also welded the flange on for me.


    http://www.turbotrix.com
    As by the pictures, they build some beautiful and powerful motors.




  10. #1929
    Registered User BassMan097's Avatar
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    yes, turbotrix knows their ****...i actually saw that car with the engine above on the dyno...trust me, it was absolutely ridiculous. The car runs 9's in the 1/4 btw...
    2004 R32: 220 whp

    For Sale: 2003 wrx
    376 whp @ 22 psi, 93 octane

    Pics:
    http://www.cardomain.com/id/badassrex

  11. #1930
    Registered User BassMan097's Avatar
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    Originally posted by God
    It's common to have to back off the timing a bit on the road but I never see 22 degrees at redline. How much boost are you seeing? Remember, boost pressure increases on the road a bit compared to the dyno. E-mail me or give me a ring Dave and I'll see about getting you a bit more power.
    We've got the boost set at 18 psi...its not more power that i'm after, just getting rid of the knocking on the highway in the high revs...I'm just guessing at a few possibilities...1) something is wrong with the spark (misfire???), i.e. the plugs themselves (i just replaced them with the blitz set, so i doubt it) or the actual ignition/coil system. I was looking into a MSD unit, but I saw one of your posts a while back that said that JUN uses the stock coils up to 600 hp. On the other hand, I have seen lots of cars, not necessarily WRX's, that require ignition upgrades when the power is increased to such an extent as I have done on my car...2) On the highway, the car takes in much more air and the intake charge is much colder and more dense than on the dyno, and runs lean (and therefore knocks) in the hi revs under heavy engine load (All of my dyno's were done when it was 85-90 degrees outside, and blowing hot air on it with a fan im sure does very little)... 3) Is it possible the car isnt running enough timing?? On the dyno the more timing we added the more it knocked...And we made some really great, smooth power, so i'm definitely confused as to why its acting up on the highway...I'm not sure exactly what the problem is, but hopefully it can be resolved. Having all this power and not being able to utilize it effectively kinda sucks
    Last edited by BassMan097; 07-19-2003 at 10:56 PM.
    2004 R32: 220 whp

    For Sale: 2003 wrx
    376 whp @ 22 psi, 93 octane

    Pics:
    http://www.cardomain.com/id/badassrex

  12. #1931
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    BOV Question w/ TXS TMIC Ver. 2

    I have a Turboxs TMIC Ver. 2 and a GFB BOV. When I installed the BOV it rests on the intake manifold. I even raised the right side of the intercooler when I tightened the BOV down. I am worried that the BOV is not fully seated against the intercooler. Is anyone else running this setup or do I need to get a TurboXS BOV. Thanks

  13. #1932
    Registered User Hyperflow Technologies's Avatar
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    2.2gotboost

    The GFB is the only BOV that needs a little mod to get it to fit..

    The GFB has a very large mounting flange and needs to have a little bit filed from it to get it to seat properly

    Kevin

  14. #1933
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    FMDVSUB01 is the atmospheric BOV
    FMDVSUB02 is the recirculating valve
    Tom Porter
    Forge Motorsport USA

  15. #1934
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    BOV problem (compresser surge)

    Ok here it is. I have the HKS SSQ BOV. up untill about 3 days ago it was fine. it would blow off at about 3500rpms (ruffly) when i let off the gas. NOW it doesn't let off untill about 5-6k. and what's happening is I can feel, and hear the air pushing out of the Intake, and not the BOV I hear like a ShewShewShewShew sound.

    Things I've looked at, and tried

    First -of course adjusted the valve screw in, and out, and everywhere in between. same problem.

    second -pulled off the HKS BOV took it apart completly (what a pain in the a**) to make sure it didn't get gumed up from oil. nothing was in there. it was pretty clean, and I cleaned it out anyway. Also pushed the valve in, and out to make sure it wasn't stuck.

    Third -pulled off the vacum line going from the valve to the bottom of the manifold area. Blew into the tubing, and air did go threw. so i figured thats ok. (unless more air should of went through it then i felt). Theres alittle quarter sized connector which i believe is some sort of filter. So i think MAYBE thats clogged a bit??? but air did blow through it mildly (its pretty small). keep in mind my blowing power is not good for i never practice...HAHAHA!!


    Well if you guys have any ideas on things I can check before i have to buy a new turbo please feel free to give up your thoughts.

    Thanks, Bob

    (p.s. if you dont have an answer for me please dont reply with your corny sh** like "um you spelled this wrong", or "why get the HKS anyway i like the turbo xs better" )
    If they dont sell it, BUILD IT.

  16. #1935
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    Remove that filter and replace the vacumm hose. I used to have this anoying compressor chuckle with the SSQV and FMIC even without the filter. After replacing the hose with a new,good quality silicone hose and making sure it's securely clamped at both ends,it now blows off properly with only very slight chuckle at low boost.

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