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This is a discussion on and 5 minutes to a better running car :) within the Engine Modifications forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; Originally Posted by 04.SPT.WRX Have had some time to drive the WRX after the MAF cleaning / AP ECU reset. ...

  1. #61
    Moderator   Sasquatch's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 04.SPT.WRX


    Have had some time to drive the WRX after the MAF cleaning / AP ECU reset. The idle seems to be noticeably smoother. I will see what the MPGs are on this tank as well.
    23 mpg. Impressive. I usually see 20-22.
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  3. #62
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    Well, I bought the can, and took out the MAF...only to find the MAF was actually pretty clean.
    I was actually hoping to find it dirty to get a little horsepower fix LOL!

    Thanks for posting the tip though.

  4. #63
    Registered User HudsonWRX's Avatar
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    Sales mgr @ the local Carquest is going to order a case from the depot in NC today so I can buy one off him. A little schmoosing never hurts! I felt like a salesman for CRC for a minute. Mgr's pretty sure he can sell the rest so I'm set tomorrow afternoon ...

    EDIT: After cleaning my MAF sensor and running a bottle of the 3M fuel system cleaner through the tank, the butt dyno says I've got ~5-10hp back in my engine, more response, smoother everything. Do it! Do it now! I use an oiled K&N which I probably over-oiled since there was a bit extra on the seals for the MAF sensor, but I cleaned that off as well. This thread fell into my attention just at the right time and I can definitely correlate the loss in engine response to the week after I oiled that filter last month. Glad I cleaned up the sensor!
    Last edited by HudsonWRX; 05-17-2006 at 11:13 AM.
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    Registered User WRXgotit's Avatar
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    Cool!!

    Say I do this, sounds like I realy should (02 WRX 71,000miles)
    Should I reset my ECU, I don't have any Engine Management System?

    Probly should If it's rely dirty??
    Sounds like it has been working for most all without resetting.

    I'm going to get a can today, thats if I can find any.
    You would think, with all these sensors on our Subaru's, they would be able to tell our blood preasure or the
    Teperature outside..
    Last edited by WRXgotit; 05-16-2006 at 09:53 AM.

  6. #65
    Registered User HudsonWRX's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WRXgotit
    Say I do this, sounds like I realy should (02 WRX 71,000miles)
    Should I reset my ECU, I don't have any Engine Management System?

    Probly should If it's rely dirty??
    Sounds like it has been working for most all without resetting.

    I'm going to get a can today, thats if I can find any.
    You would think, with all these sensors on our Subaru's, they would be able to tell our blood preasure or the
    Teperature outside..

    I think this came up earlier in this thread and it rings true all around the forum. If you change something related to your engine: intake, exhaust, etc., you should reset the ECU utilizing your EM device or the battery disconnect/brake stomp. You won't have the learning your ECU may have grown accustomed to, but you can do the ECU trick or just deal w/ the learning for a week and you're golden.

    A little ECU reset never hurt anyone w/ proper programming!

    That being said, it probably doesn't matter either way for this, but if your MAF was dirty, you are technically changing what the ECU is used to, even though it is ever so slight in some cases. For what it's worth, I haven't reset since I'm reflashing stage II to my AP tomorrow after the install so it'll be a whole new world anyway...
    Last edited by HudsonWRX; 05-17-2006 at 11:14 AM.
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  7. #66
    Registered User WRXgotit's Avatar
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    Got It!!!

    YES!!!!! SHUCKS here in Lakewood Washington had it for $5.99.
    Can't wate to see how this works out!
    I know I need it, I run a drop in K&N filter and did the silencer delete. Also my cars at a wopping 71K.

  8. #67
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    Thanks yet again almighty "Big Sky WRX" Not only is it good for maintenance this helps to clear the cel code OBD P0171 here is some useful info:


    "Technical Description

    System Too Lean (Bank 1)

    What does that mean?

    Basically this means that an oxygen sensor in bank 1 detected a lean condition (too much oxygen in the exhaust). On V6/V8/V10 engines, Bank 1 is the side of the engine that has cylinder #1.

    Note: This DTC is very similar to P0174, and in fact your vehicle may show both codes at the same time.

    Symptoms

    You will more than likely not notice any drivability problems, although there may be symptoms such as a lack of power, detonation (spark knock), and/or a hesitation/surge on acceleration.

    Causes

    A code P0171 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:

    The MAF (Mass Air Flow) Sensor is dirty or faulty. Note: The use of "oiled" air filters (K&N, etc.) can cause the MAF to become dirty if the filter is over-oiled
    There could be a vacuum leak downstream of the MAF sensor."
    Last edited by rx4mj; 08-04-2006 at 08:37 AM.
    Hey guys, I'm back!!!

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    Moderating on the run! Big Sky WRX's Avatar
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    Nice- is that from a Subaru TSB?
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    Registered User rx4mj's Avatar
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    I am not sure of it's origins Igot the info off NASIOC after throwing the code and remembered reading this thread so I thought I might link the two.
    Hey guys, I'm back!!!

  11. #70
    Moderating on the run! Big Sky WRX's Avatar
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    definitely cheap insurance- that's for sure
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    Well my car never threw a code for this, but it did slightly stumble/hessitate under part throttle acceleration at times and could never track it down.

    I remember seeing the original thread on this a few years back but never did the MAS cleaning since I am running a Blitz SUS filter which isn't oiled.

    Well, I did a quick MAS cleaning with non-chlorinated brake cleaner tonight after reading the last couple of posts and the hessitation is gone! Thanks guys.
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  13. #72
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    Thumbs up

    Quote Originally Posted by Big Sky WRX
    I know it's been covered some time before, but a nice little reminder for those that haven't seen it- clean your MAF sensor- it's easy and cheap

    The MAF is simply unplugged and then two phillips head screws (use a rather fine phillip head so you don't round the screws) and it's it out.

    I use CRC MAF cleaner- $5 a can and specifically made to clean MAF's



    Before and after pics of the MAF- first one it's black and kind of sooty looking, the second you can see the wires cleaned and the almost amber color of the "bulb". Simply give it several sprays from several different angles- let it dry good and put it back in.

    This is a good time to throw a new filter in as well
    WOW Big Sky the results from this was just AMAZING... my car has no more lag in first gear, it looks like im getting better mileage since i hit 170 to a half tank (when normally it was 150 or less) and to top it all off it idles great....all I can say is thanks for bringing it up because honestly I'm pretty damn confident I wouldnt have if you didnt......

  14. #73
    Moderating on the run! Big Sky WRX's Avatar
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    Nice! I think results will vary greatly on the cleanliness of the sensor- if it's fairly dirty I think the results will be a little more "dramatic", fairly clean- might not notice much at all.

    The good thing is it's fairly cheap and certainly won't hurt
    "Simplify and add lightness." - Colin Chapman

  15. #74
    Registered User ShotgunTC88's Avatar
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    Hey Sky, Many thanks for the idea!!!

    I cleaned the M.A.F on my wife's P.T Cruiser and it cured a dam high idle prob that's been driving me nut's for 2yrs!!

    The car has around 10000miles on it and it would NOT idle down below 1500rpms and I have screwed around with all kind of wacky ideas!

    The cleaning did the trick..........

    I owe ya one


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  16. #75
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    I did mine a few months back and it smoothed out my idle a bit. I think I got the idea from this thread. I used non-chlorinated brake fluid.

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