hi just bought a 2008 wrx and then traded it in for a 2012 wrx 2 weeks later!
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This is a discussion on hi just bought a 2008 wrx and then traded it in for a 2012 wrx 2 weeks later! within the Engine Modifications forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; wondering what i can do to safely mod this car to 300 whp with low end boost range ? i ...

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    Registered User carlilesway's Avatar
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    hi just bought a 2008 wrx and then traded it in for a 2012 wrx 2 weeks later!

    wondering what i can do to safely mod this car to 300 whp with low end boost range ? i will say its a lot more car than the 2008 i traded and im very happy with it just looking to see what options are out thier that are safe for a daily driver?

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    Registered User bbrock171's Avatar
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    I've done that, sucks to blow money on a mistake like that but better to get what you actually want in the long run...

    Well let's see, if you want 300whp you probably need a conservative turbo upgrade, unless you're in an area where e85 is available.

    I have a 13 STi, and it only made 290whp (on a dynojet) with an intake, FMIC, turbo-back exhaust and tune. If you're looking for a WRX to make a solid 300whp on most dynos, you might consider a 16G-XT with supporting mods. By supporting mods I mean you will need a fuel pump and injectors, intercooler, intake and exhaust at a minimum.

    That said, you might want to consider just going Stg2 first and seeing how it feels. It's a HUGE improvement from stock in both responsiveness and power. For that all you need is a downpipe and an off the shelf (OTS) tune.

    It's much better IMO, and easier on the wallet, to do it incrementally. Plus adding one thing at a time will allow you to better diagnose and fix issues that arise along the way as opposed to throwing everything at it at once.

    Once you're Stg2 you can get an intake and change to a corresponding OTS tune. Then get a top mount intercooler, which won't require a tune but won't give you much if any power increase without one. Then replace your fuel pump (no tuning necessary), then buy your turbo and injectors, slap them on and get a proper dyno tune and enjoy.

    There are a ton of turbos to choose from, and you will have to decide that on your own, but I like the Blouch 16G XT for what you're trying to do because it's a decent upgrade over your VF-52, but not crazy big and won't be very laggy. It's got a billet wheel, and high output potential for the size. Plus I own a 20G XT-R which I absolutely loved when i had it on the car. I made 365whp with that, but it was noticeably more laggy than stock.

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    Registered User WRX-maniac's Avatar
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    Stage 2 plus intake is the way to go. Big jump in power over stock. I think on a mustang dyno our generation wrx is making around 280whp, give or take bc every car is a little different. But mods I would suggest would be an invidia turbo back exhaust and the AEM cold air intake. And for engine management I would get the cobb accessport and run the stage 2 map for the AEM intake for whichever octane fuel you use. (i.e. 91 oe 93) But a pro-tune can net you a bigger power increase at stage 2.

    And to break the 300whp mark, you dont really need to do a turbo upgrade. You can hit over 300 with the right bolt-ons. For example the following set-up (without a turbo upgrade) could net you around 320whp once tune.

    -EL headers
    -uppipe for external wastegte
    -tial 38mm wastegate
    -process west tmic
    -forge bpv
    -1000cc injectors
    -255lph fuel pump
    -3 port ebcs
    -pro-tune
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    The Guy On The Couch TownLine500's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WRX-maniac View Post
    Stage 2 plus intake is the way to go. Big jump in power over stock. I think on a mustang dyno our generation wrx is making around 280whp, give or take bc every car is a little different. But mods I would suggest would be an invidia turbo back exhaust and the AEM cold air intake. And for engine management I would get the cobb accessport and run the stage 2 map for the AEM intake for whichever octane fuel you use. (i.e. 91 oe 93) But a pro-tune can net you a bigger power increase at stage 2.

    And to break the 300whp mark, you dont really need to do a turbo upgrade. You can hit over 300 with the right bolt-ons. For example the following set-up (without a turbo upgrade) could net you around 320whp once tune.

    -EL headers
    -uppipe for external wastegte
    -tial 38mm wastegate
    -process west tmic
    -forge bpv
    -1000cc injectors
    -255lph fuel pump
    -3 port ebcs
    -pro-tune
    Those mods would definitely get you to 300WHP.
    I'm at 291 on a Mustang dyno, and 320TQ.
    My car is stage2 modded.
    Full turbo back exhaust with catted downpipe. Cobb SF intake with airbox.
    Cobb AP with custom protuned maps.
    My car moves, like WRX-maniac mentioned take it to stage2 see how you like it.
    When I have the funds available I'm adding a Process West TMIC and a retune, that will put at 300WHP or maybe a little more.
    Also keep in mind that different cars will see different numbers on different dynos.
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    Registered User carlilesway's Avatar
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    thanks for all the input guys. A few things if possible id like to stay with unequal headers because i like the deeper rumble of the exhaust if possible. Also a ball park price on a nice exhaust and intake and protune if you guys have an idea?

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    Registered User carlilesway's Avatar
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    also do you "need" to replace up and down pipes on a 2012 wrx? or is that older models?

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    OMG WTF MainFrame's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by carlilesway View Post
    also do you "need" to replace up and down pipes on a 2012 wrx? or is that older models?


    You don't need to replace the uppipe. The uppipe on all 2.5L engines has been catless from the factory.


    The downpipe, no you don't "need" to replace it, but if you want to make more power that's pretty much the first thing you're going to want to do.

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    Registered User carlilesway's Avatar
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    thanks a bunch does a downpipe come with your exhaust im litterally as fresh to this stuff as can be. Ive done a lot of wrenching but on 79 and prior motorcycles ha.

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    OMG WTF MainFrame's Avatar
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    A "turbo back exhaust" replaces the exhaust from the turbo, back. So that would include a downpipe. A catback exhaust only replaces the exhaust from the catalytic converter back, so that wouldn't include a downpipe.. and an axleback exhaust only replaces from the rear axle back, so no downpipe or midpipe.


    Keep in mind, you cannot replace many parts (like downpipe or intake) without reprogramming the ECU of the car.. failure to do so will result in engine failure (which will not be covered by warranty).

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    Registered User carlilesway's Avatar
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    engine failure just from an exhaust ? wow . what causes this ? change in back pressure ?

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    OMG WTF MainFrame's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by carlilesway View Post
    engine failure just from an exhaust ? wow . what causes this ? change in back pressure ?

    Pretty much, yes. Changes in back pressure effect how efficiently the turbo spools. So without tuning, less back pressure can result in higher boost, and in turn, greater load.. which then will put the timing and fuel tables in the ECU into load areas that have not been tuned from the factory. Then basically the ECU doesn't know what to do timing and fueling wise, so AFR and other things will be all out of whack. You can drive it like that for a little while, but it will be causing the engine to knock, which damages it, and over time you will crack a piston or spin a rod bearing.

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    Registered User WRX-maniac's Avatar
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    Mainframe is right on point with all of his points. Another thing to look into is to get a downpipe with a cat (catted DP) instead of a catless one. Many people buy catless to save a couple hundred bucks. But a catless DP can and many times will cause boost creep, which can also lead to damage to your car. Once you develop boost creep it is not something that can be tuned out because it is a mechanical issue. The only true way to get rid of boost creep is to go with an external wastegate setup, which costs a pretty penny once you buy all of the supporting mods to run it. So here are the parts I would recommend to you and an average price for the parts:

    -invidia catted downpipe $500
    -invidia q300 catback(or any other catback of your choice) $500-1200
    -AEM cold air intake $250
    -Pro-tune..... depends on the tuner. Anywhere from $300-600 usually
    -Cobb accessport (tuner) $650-you only need this if you decide to use the accessport rather than protune
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    Registered User bbrock171's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WRX-maniac View Post
    ...the following set-up (without a turbo upgrade) could net you around 320whp once tune.

    -EL headers
    -uppipe for external wastegte
    -tial 38mm wastegate
    -process west tmic
    -forge bpv
    -1000cc injectors
    -255lph fuel pump
    -3 port ebcs
    -pro-tune
    I have a hard time believing that, on pump gas, with a WRX. I've seen numbers like that on e85 with the VF-52, but nothing approaching 320whp on 93 octane with the stock turbo. Those injectors are overkill for a stock turbo setup and won't net you any more power, neither will the fuel pump or the BPV, boost controller and EWG will allow for more consistent boost but not necessarily much higher power. Where is the extra 40whp coming from, all from the TMIC and headers? Doubtful, even with the best of tuning. I had Tomei equal length headers, a 20G XT-R, ID1000s, Walbro pump, TGV deletes, 3in turbo inlet, AEM intake, catless downpipe, SPT catback, TurboXS FMIC, and still only made 365whp on a dynojet on 93 octane at 21psi. And that was on a 13 STI. I know there is a fair amount of variance between cars, but not that much.
    Last edited by bbrock171; 11-24-2014 at 07:35 PM. Reason: typo

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    Registered User bbrock171's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WRX-maniac View Post
    Another thing to look into is to get a downpipe with a cat (catted DP) instead of a catless one. Many people buy catless to save a couple hundred bucks. But a catless DP can and many times will cause boost creep, which can also lead to damage to your car. Once you develop boost creep it is not something that can be tuned out because it is a mechanical issue. The only true way to get rid of boost creep is to go with an external wastegate setup, which costs a pretty penny once you buy all of the supporting mods to run it.
    ^This.

    I have a catless downpipe and love it, but for one it made my exhaust tips instantly black, and I haven't had much issue with boost creep, but did experience it a couple times when it was very cold outside last winter. On the other hand, a friend of mine has had nothing but problems with his catless downpipe causing boost creep. Every car is different, and replacing the uppipe is a huge PITA you probably don't want to mess with down the road if you end up running into boost creep issues. It's better to spend the extra couple hundred dollars and get a catted downpipe.

    Don't expect to pass emissions with it though

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    Registered User Wrxchick1676's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bbrock171 View Post
    ^This.

    I have a catless downpipe and love it, but for one it made my exhaust tips instantly black, and I haven't had much issue with boost creep, but did experience it a couple times when it was very cold outside last winter. On the other hand, a friend of mine has had nothing but problems with his catless downpipe causing boost creep. Every car is different, and replacing the uppipe is a huge PITA you probably don't want to mess with down the road if you end up running into boost creep issues. It's better to spend the extra couple hundred dollars and get a catted downpipe.

    Don't expect to pass emissions with it though

    Do they turn black on their own or do you really have to beat up on it ? Just got a q300 n have a catless dp. My car is my dd . I'm not an aggressive driver . I have no problems with my car so far . If the exhaust tips do turn black , what is the best way to clean them ?

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