2011 WRX, from stage 1 to stage 2 mod list.
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This is a discussion on 2011 WRX, from stage 1 to stage 2 mod list. within the Engine Modifications forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; Hey guys, Just bought my WRX last month and I ordered the new AP with cobb SF and box, as ...

  1. #1
    Registered User 386WRX's Avatar
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    2011 WRX, from stage 1 to stage 2 mod list.

    Hey guys,

    Just bought my WRX last month and I ordered the new AP with cobb SF and box, as well as TP stage 1 tune 93 oct. Just finish datalogging with Eric, and the car feels great! I want more, of coarse.
    So I bought his stage 2 tune, and am compiling a mod list for stage two, and to set me up for later on. My end goals would be a modest 315-330 AWHP and a ton of torque, (380+?)...
    The belts are squealing from time to time so I am going to replace those too. Please add or remove from my list. I know all I really "need" is a DP, but I want the most out of her.
    Current: TP stage 1, Cobb SF with box, Stock catback

    Tsudo or Invidia CATLESS DP ( 100 ft above sea level in Florida)
    DEI titanium DP wrap
    PTP lava turbo blanket (or would the regular PTP blanket be fine?)
    GS Heat shield
    Gates racing best x2
    NGK One step colder plugs (maintenance issue, might as well)
    DW 65C fuel pump
    Kartboy Short throw with bushings
    GS DP to stock catback adapter

    If I have to replace the belts, would it be beneficial to throw on a GS pulley, or is that just hype. Also, Does anyone have any recommendations on where to buy these parts as a package? I like Rally Sport Direct, but I know some vendors can be cheaper.

    Future mods: PW or AVO TMIC, TGV deletes, Tomei ELH header/uppipe, DEI reflective tape, GS EBCS, protune by Circuit motorsports

    Thanks everyone

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  3. #2
    Pro Manscaper Mikie13's Avatar
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    You won't see 380 wtq unless you're on corn, or an upgraded turbo.

    Fuel pump won't really do you any good until you are looking at upgrading injectors. And when you go to your future mods plan, you'll need them to see any really good gains since basic Stage 2 tunes already max out the stock injector duty cycles.

    Heatshields are always good since you'll be removing the stock one with the stock downpipe. Shifter is good for driving and shifting feel of course, but plays no part on increasing power.

    Some people say the pulley is worth it, others say it's worthless. Personally, I don't think it's worth it since I've never seen anything that proves it's a worthwhile mod.
    The Hawk-Eye Alliance #90|The Blobeye Syndicate #0|The Stink-Eye Mob #0|N.E.R.D. Founding Member & #3
    2012 Lightning Red WRX Sedan
    ProcessWest TMIC Cobb SF Intake w/airbox Invidia Catless Downpipe Invidia Q300 Catback Kartboy Short Shifter
    OpenSource tuned by: Matty @ WTF Tuning

  4. #3
    ClubWRX.net Vendor WTF Tuning's Avatar
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    I can get you setup with all the parts on your list...

    Wrap and a blanket won't really increase power, but it will help with some heat soak when you're sitting in traffic for a while. Any turbo blanket will do, but if you're going with the titanium wrap for the downpipe, I would go with the same for the turbo blanket, just to keep it looking similar.

    Personally, I would go without an aftermarket heat shield if you're doing a turbo blanket, and put that money elsewhere. If you want a heatshield as well, just modify your OE one with a dremel (10 min job) and reinstall that one, unless you prefer the aesthetic look of the aftermarket one. I do carry GS heatshields.

    I run the standard Micro-V Gates accessory belts on my car, and they do a fine job, but the Racing series belts are good, too. Your choice on which one you go with, I can sell you either. When you have the belts off, make sure that the pullies aren't causing damage to the belts themselves. Often times, they can be an issue, which can lead to multiple belt purchases/installs.

    I would advise you to buy an Invidia downpipe which offers units with a secondary O2 bung for a WBO2, which I would strongly urge you to purchase for use with your S2 tune. Most WBO2s include a bung that you can weld in, but if you don't have the ability to DIY, this will save you time/money. You can only guess at AFRs with the front O2 sensor, so this will help both make sure your tune is dialed in properly, as well as notify you of any potential issues that may happen (e.g., vacuum leaks). A popular gauge setup is a cluster bezel with both a Boost / WBO2 gauge.

    For the downpipe wrap, be sure not to use too much. The most important part of wrapping is from the turbo flange to the bend under the firewall (this will help prevent radiant heat from the pipe from heatsoaking your TMIC). Beyond that, you're looking at diminishing returns. Save any leftover wrap for the header/uppipe down the line.

    For your modification level, I would say that you can get away with standard heat-range iridium spark plugs, but one-step colder may be beneficial down the line depending on how far you go.

    I like a fuel pump @ S2 power levels, and the 65C is a popular choice. If you don't plan to go too far down the modification path, that would be a good option for you.

    I love driveline modifications, so a shifter and bushings is always a good modification. There are a few different options for you, in that you can just get the front/rear shifter bushings, or you can replace all four shifter bushings while you're there. Personally, I recommend you do all four bushing sets, but I sell packages for both.

    The GS catback adapter is a good way to avoid leaks until you upgrade your catback. If you're looking at getting more out of your car down the road, I would suggest a full aftermarket exhaust, at which point, you can turn around and sell the adapter and recoup most of what you spent.

    I would not bother with a crank pulley, personally. Down the line if you replace the clutch, I would say go with a lightweight flywheel, but I would hold off on the pulley, for now.

    For your future modifications:
    PW TMIC - I recommend either the PW or ETS TMICs on our cars. Unfortunately, at this time, ETS does not currently have an option for the '08+ WRX.
    ID1000 injectors (you're going to be pretty maxed out on fueling @ S2, and this will give you the necessary headroom to make use of the Cobb SRI you have). These are some of the easiest to tune and best idling injectors on the market.
    TGV Deletes - A great modification, but a lengthy install process. If you're not the DIY type, I would hold off on these as book time will be more than 2X what you'd pay for the deletes themselves.
    Tomei ELH/UP - Popular choice, but some people like/need an EWG setup. If you go the Tomei route, GS now offers a 3-bolt EWG uppipe that you can swap out down the road if necessary.
    GS EBCS - Great unit, plug&play. I run one of these on my car paired with a GS EWG uppipe.
    Catback - The stock catback is a bit more restrictive on these cars vs previous model years and may be worth looking into upgrading
    Last edited by WTF Tuning; 02-19-2014 at 03:42 PM.

  5. #4
    Registered User 386WRX's Avatar
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    Wow, thank you for all the information and insight. I will definitely contact you when I finish my research and buy all the parts. What brand WBO2 and boost gauge would you recommend? And would I be safe if i didn't wrap the DP? Thanks again!

  6. #5
    ClubWRX.net Vendor WTF Tuning's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 386WRX
    Wow, thank you for all the information and insight. I will definitely contact you when I finish my research and buy all the parts. What brand WBO2 and boost gauge would you recommend? And would I be safe if i didn't wrap the DP? Thanks again!
    The car is absolutely safe if you don't wrap the downpipe. You just don't have the benefit of reduced radiant heat from the downpipe when sitting at a stop.

    An inaccurate gauge is worse than no gauge at all. That said, Defi gauges are fantastic, although pricey. They offer a "Racer" series that doesn't require a control unit, so you get the accuracy without as large of a bill. For a WBO2, it's really your choice. Personally, I prefer the Innovate DB line of gauges due to it's matching of the OE cluster, but AEM UEGO is cheaper, and doesn't require the calibration that the Innovate sensor does. Both units work with both Cobb and OpenECU software, both are accurate and quality units, so it's a judgement call on your end which interface you'd prefer to look at.

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