Need help with cobb AP or pro tune and few other questions
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This is a discussion on Need help with cobb AP or pro tune and few other questions within the Engine Modifications forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; Hello I am a nubie and here are Few questions that I need answers/options. 1. the only parts im getting ...

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    Need help with cobb AP or pro tune and few other questions

    Hello I am a nubie and here are Few questions that I need answers/options.
    1. the only parts im getting is cobb intake and dp....should i get a ap for the self tune or should i take it to pro tune? when it comes to somg check what do i need to do? since ill be having only intake + dp. if i have a ap i can go back to stock when I do somg? and what happen if i have a pro tune?

    2. Headlight housing....should i paint it or plasti dip? which one is better ?

    Thank you for your help.

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    Registered User WRX-maniac's Avatar
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    Hi, welcome to the suby world! In my opinion you should just go with the accessport and the OTS stage 2 tune they offer. The tune is specifically made for the parts you are buying. Pro-tunes will always net you more power in the long run, however, you arent really going crazy with mods to the point that you have to have a protune. Also, many tuners these days require that you have an accessport for a protune, although many tuners still use the opensource option. Also, opensource tunes will replace your stock tune, as the accessport allows you to reflash the stock tune if you were ever to say, sell the car, or take it for a warranty claim. Another nice thing about the accessport is it displays a few different gauges for you, and if you get a protune, the tuner will load the new map directly to your accessport, allowing you to reflash that map again if need be. Hope this helps, some people hate the accessport and think it is a waste of money. But more, including myself, use the accessport as a very nice tuning option for our cars.

    As for the headlight housing, its up to you. You can use either. If you are deadset on a color (most people just black theirs out), then just use paint and be done with it. If you ever want to change the color, or return it back to the stock color, just use plastidip.
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    I really like like my AP COBB V3 , I downloaded the map that my car needed, and i can always unmarry the thing and turn it back to stock as I wish, it also help my troubleshoot a CEL and reset the CEL after an O2 sensor was replaced.... very nice and usefull tool....

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    In my opinion, I believe you should stick with the Cobb AP 'canned tunes' when you are just at stage 2 (DP and Intake). I believe a proper pro-tune on the dyno will yield some results, but I don't believe the cost/benefit ratio is worth it at this level.

    However, there are a few guys on here that do e-tunes that I believe really helped me out in the mod process. Eric at Torqued Performance is the one I used (there are other good ones on this site too), and for his cost I think he was worth the performance upgrade over the Cobb tunes. Just my $.02.
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    Quote Originally Posted by blusuby View Post
    I really like like my AP COBB V3 , I downloaded the map that my car needed, and i can always unmarry the thing and turn it back to stock as I wish, it also help my troubleshoot a CEL and reset the CEL after an O2 sensor was replaced.... very nice and usefull tool....
    You can do this with any engine management...
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    If you get the AP, don't flash back to stock with the intake and dp still installed.
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    Quote Originally Posted by TankerTruck View Post
    I believe a proper pro-tune on the dyno will yield some results, but I don't believe the cost/benefit ratio is worth it at this level.


    That really depends on how you measure cost/benefit I guess. You can get a real tune on a dyno for half the cost of an AP, and it will be superior to the OTS AP tune in every way.

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    Quote Originally Posted by TankerTruck View Post
    In my opinion, I believe you should stick with the Cobb AP 'canned tunes' when you are just at stage 2 (DP and Intake). I believe a proper pro-tune on the dyno will yield some results, but I don't believe the cost/benefit ratio is worth it at this level.
    I beg to differ. I was protuned Stage 2 on a dyno with my 07 STI. I netted 30% gains in WHP and WTQ over the AP Stage 2 OTS tune. On top of that, comparing the AFRs and power bands on the OTS map to the Protune...night and day difference. Yes the AP S2 tune is an improvement, but it also kind of "enhanced" the stock lean conditions and peaks and valleys. A protune will smooth everything out so much better, and yield much improved power. It will improve the area under the curve and be more specific for the car in its respectable environment.
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    thanks for the replies. I now know what to do/get. thank you all.

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    Master Baiter EJ257's Avatar
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    It really depends on what level of tune you're getting...

    If you're simply getting an e-tune with just Cobb AP datalogging, it's not worth any additional money, unless you're experiencing issues with the tune you have that Cobb isn't able/willing to resolve. You're still guessing on the fueling, and while it may be more aggressive, I just feel that you're better off saving that money for either a WBO2 so you can get proper datalogs or putting that money into your "real tune" savings bank.

    If you have a WBO2 and can monitor fueling, an e-tune wouldn't be a bad investment. You can get AFRs in check, and can get the tune dialed in pretty well, as long as your tuner is willing to look at more than just WOT logs, and you're able to provide him with the proper datalogs to do the tune right. Unfortunately, the customer is not always able to get the tuner the information needed, and it makes really dialing in the tune more difficult. At least when I'm doing an in-person tune, I can tell the owner to give me the wheel and I can get what I want; via email, that's not possible.

    A dyno tune allows you to get the tune mostly done in a controlled environment, so you're not doing multiple high-speed pulls on the street, and makes it easier to get more of the cells populated. After a dyno tune, the tuner will typically go out on the street for a checkup/cleanup to make sure that things are in-line. If there is no road tune following the dyno, you aren't getting a full tune, and should seek a tune elsewhere.
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