Help me on the long quest to dailydrivenperfection
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This is a discussion on Help me on the long quest to dailydrivenperfection within the Engine Modifications forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; Car: 2013 Subaru Impreza WRX 5-door Hatch Trim: Base Color: Plasma Blue Pearl Mileage: 21,000 Average MPG: ~26.5 Use: Daily ...

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    Help me on the long quest to dailydrivenperfection

    Car: 2013 Subaru Impreza WRX 5-door Hatch
    Trim: Base
    Color: Plasma Blue Pearl
    Mileage: 21,000
    Average MPG: ~26.5
    Use: Daily Driver, Weekend Cruiser, AWD snowmobile

    Goal: Turn it into the perfect daily driver. I'll elaborate below on that:

    I drive anywhere from 200-450 miles a week, so having a car I really enjoy is a must. My idea of the perfect daily driver is something that is still tame around town, but there's plenty of power to unleash. Basically going for the "sleeper" look because i'd rather not grab a ton of attention, especially from my lovely local law enforcement. I'm over the whole "LOOK AT MY CAR" phase.

    I have an idea of the mod path I'm going to follow, but would like to hear some other opinions. I don't have any plans of building a new block or dropping in a new 5 gear gearset or 6speed swap. However, I already started the oh **** i broke my car fund, in case the worst case scenario should arise. I don't have any intentions of upgrading the turbo (unless it craps out, then 20g or something slightly larger than stock but still has most of the "instaspool" of the stock turbo), although i may tune for e85 given we ever get any in CT. No tracking the car, no drag strips.

    Current ideas (Power Goal: anything over 300whp/wtq i'd be happy with):

    I'd like to keep the stock catback, unless there is an actual upside to getting rid of it.

    Cobb AP v3
    Cobb Catted DP (if stock CBE kept, Invidia Catted DP if not)
    Process West TMIC (I've thought about going FMIC for the lower IAT's, but I don't like losing the crash beam)
    KsTech 73mm intake (for if i decide to go e85)
    ID 1000cc injectors (recommended by tuner)
    Dw65c pump (recommended by tuner)
    Turbosmart recirculating BOV
    Grimmspeed AOS
    Grimmspeed 3 port EBCS <-- Hybrid
    Grimmspeed MBC <-- Setup
    Invidia Equal Length Header
    Whichever up-pipe will mate to ^^ (with EWG in mind in the future possibly)

    Tuner: EFI Logics

    I'd like to "over" build it and not push it to it's breaking edge. Anything that'll bring down the IAT's (within reason i'd consider)

    All advice and opinions welcome.

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  3. #2
    Pro Manscaper Mikie13's Avatar
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    You'll be fine with the TMIC.

    Look into a turbo blanket and an aftermarket heatshield to go over it. That will help. Wrap the downpipe as well.

    FMIC is relatively pointless on a stock turbo considering the amount of time it would take to pressurize all the extra piping. You'd lose spool to gain cooler IATs. Plus, it's just freakin expensive for a good one.

    I also don't understand that large of injectors. I know you will max out the IDCs on the stockers with an aftermarket TMIC and ELHs, but to go to 1000s? I guess if your tuner prefers it...go for it. Otherwise I'd think you'd be fine with 750s or something like that.

    Bottom line though...you have a VERY good looking and solid path. You will certainly see over 300whp/wtq with those parts.
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    MAINEiac 11blackSTi's Avatar
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    Based on your list, it doesn't appear you care about saving a few bucks, but I thought I would mention, you could go with an oil catch can rather than the AOS and save a little money.

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    Quote Originally Posted by WREXXY View Post
    Cobb AP v3
    Cobb Catted DP (if stock CBE kept, Invidia Catted DP if not)
    Process West TMIC (I've thought about going FMIC for the lower IAT's, but I don't like losing the crash beam)
    KsTech 73mm intake (for if i decide to go e85)
    ID 1000cc injectors (recommended by tuner)
    Dw65c pump (recommended by tuner)
    Turbosmart recirculating BOV
    Grimmspeed AOS
    Grimmspeed 3 port EBCS <-- Hybrid
    Grimmspeed MBC <-- Setup
    Invidia Equal Length Header
    Whichever up-pipe will mate to ^^ (with EWG in mind in the future possibly)

    Tuner: EFI Logics
    Huh, this engine mod list looks familiar

    Quote Originally Posted by zax View Post
    Engine Modifications:
    Grimmspeed ceramic-coated Uppipe
    Cobb catted downpipe (heat wrapped)
    Cobb catback exhaust
    Perrin Lightweight Crank Pulley
    Ebay Oil Catch Can
    Tactrix OP2.0 Tuned by Zax with Mattypants handholding :giggity:
    Pitch Stop Mount
    STi Oil pan and baffle*
    KillerB Ultimate Oil Pickup*
    Grimmspeed EBCS
    Grimmspeed MBC Hybrid boost control set to 21 PSI peak
    DW 750cc Injectors
    Walbro 255lph fuel pump
    Blouch TD05H-18G (40lb/min Turbo)
    AEM Dry-flow filter and Corksport 73mm BigMAF
    AEM UEGO WBO2 Sensor
    PTP Turbo Blanket
    BPM Top Mount Intercooler
    TXS 50/50 Hybrid BOV/BPV
    Perrin 4-2-1 ELH*
    GT Spec Splitter*
    Grimmspeed 3mm Phenolic spacers
    Grimmspeed TGV Deletes
    Gates Timing Belt Kit & Water pump
    Mishimoto aluminum 2-core replacement radiator
    Samco turbo inlet
    I'd recommend a WBO2 sensor and EGT sensor and TGV deletes. Also, focus on braking and cornering mods. You should consider:
    1. Stainless steel brake lines
    2. Quality brake pads
    3. Quality brake fluid
    4. Sway bars and end links
    5. Uprated dampers (Koni yellows )
    6. BUSHINGS! BUSHINGS! MORE BUSHINGS! Tranny mount, engine mount, pitch stop, crossmember bushings, ALK, rear diff lockdown, etc.
    7. Quality summer performance tires and winter tires if applicable
    8. QUALITY ALIGNMENT!
    Last edited by zax; 10-02-2013 at 11:12 AM.
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    Registered User A265's Avatar
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    Power wise you seem to be going down the right path.

    What are you going to do for suspension and braking?

    Edit: Zax beat me to it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mikie13 View Post
    You'll be fine with the TMIC.

    Look into a turbo blanket and an aftermarket heatshield to go over it. That will help. Wrap the downpipe as well.

    FMIC is relatively pointless on a stock turbo considering the amount of time it would take to pressurize all the extra piping. You'd lose spool to gain cooler IATs. Plus, it's just freakin expensive for a good one.

    I also don't understand that large of injectors. I know you will max out the IDCs on the stockers with an aftermarket TMIC and ELHs, but to go to 1000s? I guess if your tuner prefers it...go for it. Otherwise I'd think you'd be fine with 750s or something like that.

    Bottom line though...you have a VERY good looking and solid path. You will certainly see over 300whp/wtq with those parts.
    I'm guessing its for the possible e85 in the future, and EFI said they'd still recommend them even without the e85 cause they scale well. Plus they're actually cheaper than DW850's (without the adapters that is). I'll at least have low IDC's ha.

    Quote Originally Posted by 11blackSTi View Post
    Based on your list, it doesn't appear you care about saving a few bucks, but I thought I would mention, you could go with an oil catch can rather than the AOS and save a little money.
    To be honest, not really sure what the difference is. But I was assuming on my limited knowledge that the AOS would require less work in the long run. One less thing I have to worry about checking regularly.

    Quote Originally Posted by zax View Post
    Huh, this engine mod list looks familiar



    I'd recommend a WBO2 sensor and EGT sensor and TGV deletes. Also, focus on braking and cornering mods. You should consider:
    1. Stainless steel brake lines
    2. Quality brake pads
    3. Quality brake fluid
    4. Sway bars and end links
    5. Uprated dampers (Koni yellows )
    6. BUSHINGS! BUSHINGS! MORE BUSHINGS! Tranny mount, engine mount, pitch stop, crossmember bushings, ALK, rear diff lockdown, etc.
    7. Quality summer performance tires and winter tires if applicable
    8. QUALITY ALIGNMENT!
    I forgot to mention I had planned to get the WBO2, wasn't too sure if the EGT was necessary. And not to throw gas onto a fire but, I have zero plans of caliper/rotor upgrades. I was guna replace the pads when they're toast with aftermarket ones. And i can see the added benefit for all the handling mods, but is it a necessity? My only other thought was that when the stock summers are gone i was going to go a little wider than stock, winter's are nexen winguard sports or something. they get the job done. i didn't get stuck while driving in any of the snow in CT last year

  8. #7
    Pro Manscaper Mikie13's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WREXXY View Post
    I'm guessing its for the possible e85 in the future, and EFI said they'd still recommend them even without the e85 cause they scale well. Plus they're actually cheaper than DW850's (without the adapters that is). I'll at least have low IDC's ha.
    Makes sense...but if there's really no chance of it coming to CT, then I wouldn't worry about it. But if the tuner likes em and they are easily scaleable, then I suppose it's a positive! I'm no tuner

    Quote Originally Posted by WREXXY View Post
    I forgot to mention I had planned to get the WBO2, wasn't too sure if the EGT was necessary. And not to throw gas onto a fire but, I have zero plans of caliper/rotor upgrades. I was guna replace the pads when they're toast with aftermarket ones. And i can see the added benefit for all the handling mods, but is it a necessity? My only other thought was that when the stock summers are gone i was going to go a little wider than stock, winter's are nexen winguard sports or something. they get the job done. i didn't get stuck while driving in any of the snow in CT last year
    You don't have to worry about the calipers or rotors at all...but pads should be done. Stainless lines and a good fluid will help tremendously as well. When you have more power, you can go faster, quicker. When you can do that, you need to make sure you can brake better than stock. That stuff won't cost that much and is easy to install for better braking.

    To your next point: handling. I came from a 2005 STI before my 2012 WRX. The STI handled like it was on rails, even stock, especially compared to the 2012. One thing I can say about these new gens, is that they handle like crap. They are hogs. They are bouncy if you hit rough terrain and have a lot of body roll through the twisties. Suspension mods can GREATLY improve that, for not a ton of money. If you want to build a car that's "dailydrivenperfection" then I HIGHLY suggest you look into front and rear sways and endlinks at least. It will make a huge improvement. And in the future, you can couple that with a better set of springs when you need to replace struts. You don't want to have a car that can give you the power through the twisties, but can't keep em the power to the wheels. Don't skimp here...that's my two pennies
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mikie13 View Post
    Makes sense...but if there's really no chance of it coming to CT, then I wouldn't worry about it. But if the tuner likes em and they are easily scaleable, then I suppose it's a positive! I'm no tuner



    You don't have to worry about the calipers or rotors at all...but pads should be done. Stainless lines and a good fluid will help tremendously as well. When you have more power, you can go faster, quicker. When you can do that, you need to make sure you can brake better than stock. That stuff won't cost that much and is easy to install for better braking.

    To your next point: handling. I came from a 2005 STI before my 2012 WRX. The STI handled like it was on rails, even stock, especially compared to the 2012. One thing I can say about these new gens, is that they handle like crap. They are hogs. They are bouncy if you hit rough terrain and have a lot of body roll through the twisties. Suspension mods can GREATLY improve that, for not a ton of money. If you want to build a car that's "dailydrivenperfection" then I HIGHLY suggest you look into front and rear sways and endlinks at least. It will make a huge improvement. And in the future, you can couple that with a better set of springs when you need to replace struts. You don't want to have a car that can give you the power through the twisties, but can't keep em the power to the wheels. Don't skimp here...that's my two pennies
    There's one station in CT, not an option but there's a petition to get it in the town next to me. So hopefully.

    and to your second point I agree. I don't want to drop the ride height at all, so idk what that means for springs, coilovers etc.

    And true, i'll add that to the list. front and rear sways, and endlinks

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    Suspension is everything. If you only care about straight-line performance, there were better options for the $$
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    Pro Manscaper Mikie13's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WREXXY View Post
    I don't want to drop the ride height at all, so idk what that means for springs, coilovers etc.
    You don't have to really drop anything. RCE makes their "Regular Guy" springs (RCE Blacks) which has very minimal drop, but improves spring rates which will help with brake dive, acceleration lift, and cornering. They will work very well with sways/endlinks. When you're ready for new struts, find something (like Koni yellows, KYB AGX, Tokico D-spec, etc) that will have adjustable dampening to work with the springs.
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    any suggestions for sways, endlinks, etc? i was reading that 22mm front and rear sways cut down on the car's understeer and aren't too stiff for daily use. no idea what the difference is about endlinks though.

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    Whiteline sways. Kartboy endllinks. 24mm front, 22mm rear.

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    Quote Originally Posted by WREXXY
    any suggestions for sways, endlinks, etc? i was reading that 22mm front and rear sways cut down on the car's understeer and aren't too stiff for daily use. no idea what the difference is about endlinks though.
    Potentially longer answer: Do you understand how swaybars work along with the other components of the suspension? There isn't a 100% proper answer, because handling is based on the suspension system as a whole, and there are a lot of areas in which you can tune your suspension setup to suit your driving needs. That said...

    Shorter answer: A very common setup is 24mm F / 22mm R, with bars being both solid and adjustable (Whiteline is common). The adjustability of the bars allows you to alter their stiffness to tune for higher spring/damper rates if you choose to go down that road in the future.
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    Id skip the AOS and the EL header, unless money is burning a hole in your pocket. Add in a custom tune and be done. The new WRXs can make 300ish atw relatively easily. IMO you dont really need to mess with suspension/brake stuff till you either decide to track it or make big power.

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