05 protuned wrx wagon not hitting target boost??
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This is a discussion on 05 protuned wrx wagon not hitting target boost?? within the Engine Modifications forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; hello all! so heres the run down. 2005 wrx wagon has been protuned for about 5 or 6 months now. ...

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    05 protuned wrx wagon not hitting target boost??

    hello all!

    so heres the run down. 2005 wrx wagon has been protuned for about 5 or 6 months now. when i first brought it to the tuners, i got a catless uppipe, cobb DP, perrin short ram intake and tune. I was only hitting about 14.2 PSI..205 whp, 200 TQ. The tuner explained i would need a new boost controller in order to acheive the targeted 18 psi. is this a normal occurrence? From talking to others, it seems the stock should be able to handle a great deal more.
    Since this first tune, ive finished the cobb turbo back exhaust and i've gotten a short throw shifter installed..thats it.

    Tomorrow ill post some runs to see if someone can spot an problems in my tune. Im just confused as to why im boosting so low for stage 2. car only had a little over 60k miles on it at the time- don't think the controller would be bad so quickly. im trying to avoid getting hosed for another 500+ dollars for the boost controller and tune. why is my HP so low =(

    any help would be appreciated! i mostly started this thread tonight to save me some time when i post my runs tomorrow!

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    Registered User Heide264's Avatar
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    Your car is pulling somewhat-substantial timing at WOT (wide open throttle)... That isn't a good thing, regardless of what boost you are hitting.

    I'd start by verifying that you have no vacuum/boost leaks and that your air/fuel ratio is okay during normal daily driving. If not, then it is probably a bad tune in my opinion.

    Take a log of a longer drive (~20 minutes). Log your RPM, Engine Load, MAF(V), air to fuel ratio, A/F Correction (AFC/short term fuel trim/STFT), and A/F Learning (AFL/Long term fuel trim/LTFT). We'll see how far those are off under normal conditions. It should point out any obvious air leaks.

    Try to stay out of WOT in the mean time.

    EDIT: There is no reason you should require any other boost control methods, to be honest. The stock one should work okay. Unless I missed something, your fuel system should be okay for now, as well. Neither may be perfect, but they'll work.
    Quote Originally Posted by Trainrex
    He was throwing balloons filled with sulfuric acid and shrapnel at the swat team. They finally had to take him down with rubber bullets.
    2011 STi Build Log
    -Part 1 - Reading, Data Logging, and Analyzing Data
    -Part 2 - Turbocharger 101 & Basic Boost Control
    -Part 3 - EcuFlash, Experimental Defintions, and a Drive By Wire Intro

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    Master Baiter EJ257's Avatar
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    2005 WRX STi (Mods | Virtual Dyno)

    Resident Tuner @ WTF Tuning, LLC

    "Never trust anything that bleeds for a week and lives ..."

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    Registered User Turbo_Tuner's Avatar
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    Sometimes Data Logging can be a mans best friend.

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    Thats fer sure. Who knew my engine was being such a giant piece of ****.

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    Master Baiter EJ257's Avatar
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    You need to figure out why your car is pulling timing globally via DAM
    2005 WRX STi (Mods | Virtual Dyno)

    Resident Tuner @ WTF Tuning, LLC

    "Never trust anything that bleeds for a week and lives ..."

    UNYSOC

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    May need a better explanation- not exactly sure what you mean. What should i datalog to see?

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    Registered User Heide264's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Freshy View Post
    May need a better explanation- not exactly sure what you mean. What should i datalog to see?
    You are having detonation issues.... which are bad. To help prevent a blown engine, Subaru has implemented their "Knock Prevention Strategy" or whatever ya want to call it. Basically, if the car senses detonation (through a tiny microphone on top of your engine), the car "pulls timing" advance in one of several ways: Feedback Knock Correction (FBKC), Fine Learning Knock Correction (FLKC), and DAM/IAM (Dynamic Advance Multiplier).

    FBKC and FLKC are fairly common. FBKC is intended to correct for things such as bad tip-in compensation. It will clear quickly and is applied for a short period of time. FLKC is intended to correct long term issues with your tune or any air leaks. It is applied for a fairly long period of time within a specific load and rpm range.

    DAM/IAM... Now that is the bad one. After pulling enough FBKC or FLKC, your car will start to reduce DAM/IAM. This is intended to correct for things such as a bad tank of gas - issues that are across the board for a long period of time. Once you start to see this number being reduced, things need to be corrected. Normally with DAM/IAM reduction, the ECU starts to pull boost and revert to safer fuel mappings.

    You'll cause detonation by a whole flurry of things. Running improper air/fuel ratios is a big factor. Running too much timing advance is another one. Too much boost. Unusually high EGTs or cylinder head pressures. You (or your tuner) needs to figure out how to correct the root issue.
    Quote Originally Posted by Trainrex
    He was throwing balloons filled with sulfuric acid and shrapnel at the swat team. They finally had to take him down with rubber bullets.
    2011 STi Build Log
    -Part 1 - Reading, Data Logging, and Analyzing Data
    -Part 2 - Turbocharger 101 & Basic Boost Control
    -Part 3 - EcuFlash, Experimental Defintions, and a Drive By Wire Intro

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    I see i have a lot more to learn about my car then i thought.

    Im gonna call precision tomorrow to get it figured out. From your experience--is this something the tuner should adjust free of charge?

    Also isnt DAM supposed to be at 16 normally? How bad is a drop to 15?

    Ill be straightforward-i dont have a lot of cash to drop on my car at the moment. I need to know it is safe--wont be able to get to the tuner til saturday. Have i started a huge snowball of expenses going stage 2? I figured it was a relatively modest mod for the car. Im only 7 months into a 4 year run of car payments. If its common to keep dumping money to fix tuning issues and such then id probably consider going back to stock.

    Thanks for the response, heide. Im really bummed my cars having issues and ive be eagerly awaiting some kind of info. Just wish my subie would start loving me in return! Its been a money pit thus far.

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    Registered User Heide264's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Freshy View Post
    I see i have a lot more to learn about my car then i thought.

    Im gonna call precision tomorrow to get it figured out. From your experience--is this something the tuner should adjust free of charge?

    Also isnt DAM supposed to be at 16 normally? How bad is a drop to 15?

    Ill be straightforward-i dont have a lot of cash to drop on my car at the moment. I need to know it is safe--wont be able to get to the tuner til saturday. Have i started a huge snowball of expenses going stage 2? I figured it was a relatively modest mod for the car. Im only 7 months into a 4 year run of car payments. If its common to keep dumping money to fix tuning issues and such then id probably consider going back to stock.
    If you are short on cash, go tell your tuner to fix your car. You shouldn't have to pay for a tune in that state. He may ask that you do some diagnostic work on your car (boost leak test, mainly), which I suggest you do. Just work with him and tell him that there is something clearly wrong with the tune.

    Any change in DAM shows that you've had significant timing pulled at one time or another.
    Quote Originally Posted by Trainrex
    He was throwing balloons filled with sulfuric acid and shrapnel at the swat team. They finally had to take him down with rubber bullets.
    2011 STi Build Log
    -Part 1 - Reading, Data Logging, and Analyzing Data
    -Part 2 - Turbocharger 101 & Basic Boost Control
    -Part 3 - EcuFlash, Experimental Defintions, and a Drive By Wire Intro

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    Update on this-- at precision today. Got a manual boost controller installed and getting retuned in a bit. Pumped to say the least.

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    After tune-..all numbers, including DAM are where they should be. Boost stayed around the same. The issue wasnt my boost controller, it was my injectors and fuel pump which are maxed out at this point.

    Welp, time to start the saving. If anyone can recommend good cheap injectors that would be helpful!

    Thanks again for the help, heide. I take back anything i said about precision in moments of frustration. They really are nice guys and know what theyre talking about. Id definitely still recommend them to anyone in NJ, NY, or PA.

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