This was a pretty easy install. I know there is already plenty of info out there, but I thought I'd add a couple little nuggets of my own for anyone interested.
Picked up this DW65c from Fasttuningproducts.com. Came with everything needed for the install, and it went in like stock and started right up.
A couple of tips for newbies like me:
- Using shims helps with the retainer clips.
- It does not require a tune.
- Don't do it on a full tank of gas.
- Make sure it's sat for several hours so the fuel system is not under pressure.
- Having a clean area with cardboard and a large glass dish to work with gasoline and the parts is a huge help.
- Extra hands help for a couple of the steps, but certainly not required.
Remove the back seat. There is a snap-in clip in the middle of the front edge of the seat which just pulls up, for the front corners you will have to reach under the edge of the seat and pull back (toward front of car) on a release tab...
Remove the passenger side floor plate secured by 4 phillips screws. To do this unscrew it, then push the rubber grommet down through the hole, unhook the wiring harness depicted, and feed it through the hole to remove the plate.
This exposes the top of the fuel pump assembly.
Remove the wiring harness. Then line the area with shop towels or something before removing the fuel lines. It WILL leak fuel when you disconnect the fuel lines, so be ready and have it covered up. Keep it down in the hole and not inside the car, and you'll be fine.
Use a 8mm socket to remove the nuts. Be mindful that the retainer plate is spring-loaded. Note the orientation of the retainer plate as well as the black gasket under it.
I use this for pretty much everything. Makes life way easy....
Move everything out of the way, and begin to lift the assembly out of the fuel tank. This is a good time to have that glass dish and a towel handy.
Tilt toward the driver side as it gets further out to allow the fuel level float. It is on the driver side and it will clear without fighting if you tilt it properly. Careful!
Separate the assembly top and bottom. This is one part where extra hands would have helped, but I did it by shimming the retainer clips with cardboard so I could use both hands to pull it apart. Worked like a charm.
Remove the two hoses from the bottom as well as the wiring harnesses. Then press the top down to expose the retainer clip on the spring guide (sorry, didn't get a picture of that clip) then pull the two pieces apart.
The next part is fun...
The pump itself is held in by two well-hidden retainer clips. Take your time with this one. This would be the other time that extra hands would have helped. There isn't much room to work, and the clips won't go very far just prying on one side, so I found it helpful to use zipties as shims along with every flat pointy thing in my garage. Once I got the clips completely out of the way it still took quite a tug.
From here, just push the screen filter on your new pump, grease the provided gaskets and reverse the install procedure making sure the fuel pump is oriented in the right direction when you snap it in and all your connections are solid and there aren't any leaks.
I don't know if it makes a difference, but I also filled the bottom half of the assembly with gas in order to help prime the pump upon reinstall. After cycling the key on and off a couple times it even started up faster than I was used to with the stock pump. Works like stock, no complaints whatsoever.
Hope this was helpful.