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This is a discussion on Reliability mods within the Engine Modifications forums, part of the Tech & Modifying & General Repairs category; I guess my earlier post was eaten by server gerbils. Curse you, Server Gerbils!!! Anyways, earlier I said that the ...

  1. #16
    \_(ツ)_/ Rambo's Avatar
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    I guess my earlier post was eaten by server gerbils. Curse you, Server Gerbils!!!

    Anyways, earlier I said that the term "reliability mod" was oxymoronic, but there are a few things I guess you might call "reliability mods":

    1. Proper maintenance and repairs with OEM parts, except as below:

    2. Intercooler hose T-bolt clamps: the stock worm gear clamps can and frequently do work loose over time, leading to boost leaks. Cheap and worthwhile safety mod for any car.

    3. Silicon Intercooler hoses: older cars have plastic hoses that can crack with age. 3rd gen cars have an intercooler design prone to cracking. Silicon hoses are great if you have cracked OEM hoses (like I did), but unless you have a boost leak, as proven by logs, I wouldn't bother. A cracked intercooler can only be replaced. Process West makes a popular one. This seems to be happening on the new cars at Stage II power levels.

    4. 3rd gen cars seem to have more leaky BPVs at STGII boost levels compared to older models. A top quality Bypass Valve (NOT blow off valve!!!) may be needed. The Halman Pro RX is a name I've heard good things about. Consult with your tuner.
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  3. #17
    Registered User blkbugeye's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rambo View Post
    I guess my earlier post was eaten by server gerbils. Curse you, Server Gerbils!!!

    Anyways, earlier I said that the term "reliability mod" was oxymoronic, but there are a few things I guess you might call "reliability mods":

    1. Proper maintenance and repairs with OEM parts, except as below:

    2. Intercooler hose T-bolt clamps: the stock worm gear clamps can and frequently do work loose over time, leading to boost leaks. Cheap and worthwhile safety mod for any car.

    3. Silicon Intercooler hoses: older cars have plastic hoses that can crack with age. 3rd gen cars have an intercooler design prone to cracking. Silicon hoses are great if you have cracked OEM hoses (like I did), but unless you have a boost leak, as proven by logs, I wouldn't bother. A cracked intercooler can only be replaced. Process West makes a popular one. This seems to be happening on the new cars at Stage II power levels.

    4. 3rd gen cars seem to have more leaky BPVs at STGII boost levels compared to older models. A top quality Bypass Valve (NOT blow off valve!!!) may be needed. The Halman Pro RX is a name I've heard good things about. Consult with your tuner.
    I guess I shoud have used the term "upgrade".. whatever But thanks for the suggestions. I have heard nothing but bad things about BOVs, and Im currently looking at the Forge BPV but Ill also look into the Halman.

  4. #18
    Registered User SubaruWRC's Avatar
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    If you are getting the bpv for the sound I'd go with an aftermarket intake instead. You can hear the stock bpv very well with a short ram intake.

    And also thanks for your service.

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  5. #19
    Registered User blkbugeye's Avatar
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    Im not one who buys Stuff like that for sound or whatever. I like to try and find things that are superior to the oem part and replace it with that.

    And you are welcome.

  6. #20
    and the Funky Bunch Calvinball's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by blkbugeye View Post
    things that are superior to the oem part and replace it with that.
    Queue SD_GR in 5...4...3...2...




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  7. #21
    "Supreme Subaphile Extraordinairre" ninefourteener's Avatar
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    Reliability was always a key factor when I built my car. I wanted a car that I could drive daily... but still drive to the track, bolt on a set of slicks, and perform well.

    With that said..... whenever possible.... I tried to stick with factory Subaru parts. I never skimp, or do things the "cheap and easy" way.

    If I had to go aftermarket.... I did the research first, and then chose the highest quality parts available for what I could afford. If I couldn't afford it... I didn't buy it... so I waited and saved.

    It's ok to skimp on "some" things. My general rule was that I only skimp on parts that have no moving features. Solid, non-moving hard parts.

    Nothing wrong with modding a car. The reason people say never to buy a modified car isn't because modding a WRX or STI greatly depreciates the reliability....... it's because SOOOOOOO many people build a car the wrong (cheap) way.... drive it like an asshat..... and then wonder why it crapped out on them so quickly.

    06 WRX - bought new in Jan of 06 - Over $20k in mods - 74k miles - driven daily - never even popped a check engine light, with the exception of having a fuel pump go bad once in 2008. Thats it. I'm making a 1500 mile trip in a couple weeks.... and I'm not even the slightest bit worried about it.
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  8. #22
    Registered User SubaruWRC's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by blkbugeye View Post
    Im not one who buys Stuff like that for sound or whatever. I like to try and find things that are superior to the oem part and replace it with that.

    And you are welcome.
    I guess it depends which year you are looking at for 08+ I could see a need per this thread http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=468038

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  9. #23
    Registered User blkbugeye's Avatar
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    Damn it, I guess it keeps getting deleted, Im looking at 04-06 STi's

  10. #24
    Subaru Newb MainFrame's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rambo View Post
    4. 3rd gen cars seem to have more leaky BPVs at STGII boost levels compared to older models. A top quality Bypass Valve (NOT blow off valve!!!) may be needed. The Halman Pro RX is a name I've heard good things about. Consult with your tuner.


    The Halman Pro is a MBC..


    For BPV I would look at the Forge Recirculating Race Blow Off Valve, it's a quality unit that works well as long as it's properly sprung/shimmed and undergoes routine maintenance. (most companies use the terms BOV and BPV interchangeably. the real difference is whether it is a reticulating valve, or atmospheric)

  11. #25
    Registered User blkbugeye's Avatar
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    Yea, Ive heard good things about the forge peice. Its probably gonna be on my to-do list.

  12. #26
    Registered User blkbugeye's Avatar
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    Sorry for the double post, but I have another question, How are the ej207's in regards to reliability?

  13. #27
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    In theory better due to parts selections made. However you will need to map it, consider the valve train, and decide whether a motor over a decade old is worth purchasing at high price vs. a new short block that will have more displacement. In any case a stronger in theory motor won't last long if it's used as an excuse for drastic tuning. Luckily at this stage you need neither.
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  14. #28
    Registered User blkbugeye's Avatar
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    Yea, Im not going for big power or anything crazy.

  15. #29
    Subaru Newb MainFrame's Avatar
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    The ej207 has better oiling.. which in theory would be more reliable if you were reving high and bought a car that it came in stock.

  16. #30
    Registered User blkbugeye's Avatar
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    Yea, the other thing is that they are expensive ennough, and cars that have been swapped with them dont come up for sale too often.

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