Reliability mods

**Rambo** · 02-27-2013 08:56 PM

I guess my earlier post was eaten by server gerbils. Curse you, Server Gerbils!!!

Anyways, earlier I said that the term "reliability mod" was oxymoronic, but there are a few things I guess you might call "reliability mods":

1. Proper maintenance and repairs with OEM parts, except as below:

2. Intercooler hose T-bolt clamps: the stock worm gear clamps can and frequently do work loose over time, leading to boost leaks. Cheap and worthwhile safety mod for any car.

3. Silicon Intercooler hoses: older cars have plastic hoses that can crack with age. 3rd gen cars have an intercooler design prone to cracking. Silicon hoses are great if you have cracked OEM hoses (like I did), but unless you have a boost leak, as proven by logs, I wouldn't bother. A cracked intercooler can only be replaced. Process West makes a popular one. This seems to be happening on the new cars at Stage II power levels.

4. 3rd gen cars seem to have more leaky BPVs at STGII boost levels compared to older models. A top quality Bypass Valve (NOT blow off valve!!!) may be needed. The Halman Pro RX is a name I've heard good things about. Consult with your tuner.

**blkbugeye** · 02-27-2013 09:59 PM

Originally Posted by Rambo

I guess my earlier post was eaten by server gerbils. Curse you, Server Gerbils!!!

Anyways, earlier I said that the term "reliability mod" was oxymoronic, but there are a few things I guess you might call "reliability mods":

1. Proper maintenance and repairs with OEM parts, except as below:

2. Intercooler hose T-bolt clamps: the stock worm gear clamps can and frequently do work loose over time, leading to boost leaks. Cheap and worthwhile safety mod for any car.

3. Silicon Intercooler hoses: older cars have plastic hoses that can crack with age. 3rd gen cars have an intercooler design prone to cracking. Silicon hoses are great if you have cracked OEM hoses (like I did), but unless you have a boost leak, as proven by logs, I wouldn't bother. A cracked intercooler can only be replaced. Process West makes a popular one. This seems to be happening on the new cars at Stage II power levels.

4. 3rd gen cars seem to have more leaky BPVs at STGII boost levels compared to older models. A top quality Bypass Valve (NOT blow off valve!!!) may be needed. The Halman Pro RX is a name I've heard good things about. Consult with your tuner.

I guess I shoud have used the term "upgrade".. whatever But thanks for the suggestions. I have heard nothing but bad things about BOVs, and Im currently looking at the Forge BPV but Ill also look into the Halman.

**SubaruWRC** · 02-27-2013 10:44 PM

If you are getting the bpv for the sound I'd go with an aftermarket intake instead. You can hear the stock bpv very well with a short ram intake.

And also thanks for your service.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2

**blkbugeye** · 02-27-2013 11:21 PM

Im not one who buys Stuff like that for sound or whatever. I like to try and find things that are superior to the oem part and replace it with that.

And you are welcome.

**Calvinball** · 02-28-2013 04:59 AM

Originally Posted by blkbugeye

things that are superior to the oem part and replace it with that.

Queue SD_GR in 5...4...3...2...

**ninefourteener** · 02-28-2013 08:05 AM

Reliability was always a key factor when I built my car. I wanted a car that I could drive daily... but still drive to the track, bolt on a set of slicks, and perform well.

With that said..... whenever possible.... I tried to stick with factory Subaru parts. I never skimp, or do things the "cheap and easy" way.

If I had to go aftermarket.... I did the research first, and then chose the highest quality parts available for what I could afford. If I couldn't afford it... I didn't buy it... so I waited and saved.

It's ok to skimp on "some" things. My general rule was that I only skimp on parts that have no moving features. Solid, non-moving hard parts.

Nothing wrong with modding a car. The reason people say never to buy a modified car isn't because modding a WRX or STI greatly depreciates the reliability....... it's because SOOOOOOO many people build a car the wrong (cheap) way.... drive it like an asshat..... and then wonder why it crapped out on them so quickly.

06 WRX - bought new in Jan of 06 - Over $20k in mods - 74k miles - driven daily - never even popped a check engine light, with the exception of having a fuel pump go bad once in 2008. Thats it. I'm making a 1500 mile trip in a couple weeks.... and I'm not even the slightest bit worried about it.

**SubaruWRC** · 02-28-2013 08:56 AM

Originally Posted by blkbugeye

Im not one who buys Stuff like that for sound or whatever. I like to try and find things that are superior to the oem part and replace it with that.

And you are welcome.

I guess it depends which year you are looking at for 08+ I could see a need per this thread http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=468038

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2

**blkbugeye** · 02-28-2013 05:51 PM

Damn it, I guess it keeps getting deleted, Im looking at 04-06 STi's

**MainFrame** · 02-28-2013 06:47 PM

Originally Posted by Rambo

4. 3rd gen cars seem to have more leaky BPVs at STGII boost levels compared to older models. A top quality Bypass Valve (NOT blow off valve!!!) may be needed. The Halman Pro RX is a name I've heard good things about. Consult with your tuner.

The Halman Pro is a MBC..

For BPV I would look at the Forge Recirculating Race Blow Off Valve, it's a quality unit that works well as long as it's properly sprung/shimmed and undergoes routine maintenance. (most companies use the terms BOV and BPV interchangeably. the real difference is whether it is a reticulating valve, or atmospheric)

**blkbugeye** · 03-01-2013 03:22 AM

Yea, Ive heard good things about the forge peice. Its probably gonna be on my to-do list.

**blkbugeye** · 03-01-2013 08:51 PM

Sorry for the double post, but I have another question, How are the ej207's in regards to reliability?

**SD_GR** · 03-01-2013 09:04 PM

In theory better due to parts selections made. However you will need to map it, consider the valve train, and decide whether a motor over a decade old is worth purchasing at high price vs. a new short block that will have more displacement. In any case a stronger in theory motor won't last long if it's used as an excuse for drastic tuning. Luckily at this stage you need neither.