After lots of reading, have some TBE questions

[azsun]

I've got the itch to get a little more power out of my 2011 WRX sedan and have been reading a lot about what it takes to go stage 2. At this point, need advice on what route to go (I am a noob, have had my subie since Dec '12 but just getting into mods), if I'm missing anything and wtf some of the acronyms you guys throw around are lol.

1st off: Currently have added a K&N CAI - no tune, have read it's unnecessary (but obviously a... Stage 1? tune would help a bit)

This is also where I need acronym help

Correct me if I'm wrong here, just want to 2x check.
turbo-back: Includes, DP, Mid-pipe, and whatever is behind it (what is this section called?)
CBE: Everything after the DP back?
Axle-back: Everything after the mid-pipe back?

Looking to go for a stage 2 with the COBB DP, but not set on the CBE portion. From everything I've been reading, the mid-pipe looks like it doesn't NEED replacement (does a mid usually come in a CBE kit?) and have seen a lot of people really happy with Nameless' axle-back set. Looking for a little more power obviously, but want about stock sound when cruising, which is what I've heard the nameless gives.

Also, if there happens to be a member living in the PHX area with the COBB DP + Nameless Axleback, would love to meet up and have a listen!

End state, I'd like to have a faster WRX that has a bit more of a growl when given gas but is still safe. Advice on tuning (Cobb AP vs protune) would be appreciated as well.

Regards,

Corey

[EJ257]

Welcome

1st off: Currently have added a K&N CAI - no tune, have read it's unnecessary (but obviously a... Stage 1? tune would help a bit)

Incorrect. It may not throw fueling off to the point of a DTC being tripped, but you need to rescale the MAF for the intake.

Correct me if I'm wrong here, just want to 2x check.
turbo-back: Includes, DP, Mid-pipe, and whatever is behind it (what is this section called?)
CBE: Everything after the DP back?
Axle-back: Everything after the mid-pipe back?

It's exactly as the names describes. A TBE replaces the exhaust from the turbo, back. A CBE replaces the exhaust from the catalytic converters, back. An ABE replaces the exhaust from the rear axle, back.

Looking to go for a stage 2 with the COBB DP, but not set on the CBE portion. From everything I've been reading, the mid-pipe looks like it doesn't NEED replacement (does a mid usually come in a CBE kit?) and have seen a lot of people really happy with Nameless' axle-back set. Looking for a little more power obviously, but want about stock sound when cruising, which is what I've heard the nameless gives.

Also, if there happens to be a member living in the PHX area with the COBB DP + Nameless Axleback, would love to meet up and have a listen!

End state, I'd like to have a faster WRX that has a bit more of a growl when given gas but is still safe. Advice on tuning (Cobb AP vs protune) would be appreciated as well.

The most important part of freeing up exhaust flow for more power is getting rid of the downpipe. The catback isn't really that important with the stock turbo in terms of restriction, so you can keep it stock.

A custom reflash from a competent tuner is always better than a base map. You'll get more power, and a tune that's designed for your car/fuel. Be aware that Cobb does not make a map for the K&N intake, so you'll need to either remove that intake or go straight to a custom tune.

[wreckingball man]

^this guy, he's everywhere...read many of his posts. Very knowledgeable.

also:
Exhaust FAQ: Read if you are thinking of buying one! - NASIOC

[azsun]

I know it, most of what I've been reading up on was him, xFallenx and another name I can't remember...

EJ, am I at danger having the intake without a map for it? And how much difference does a different CAI make on the map? i.e. would a map for the COBB SF work for the K&N, if not really curious why since they both just increase ability to take air in/remove restrictions getting air to engine?

Very noob with cars, so wasn't even sure what a CBE was for a long time, thx for straightening that out.

Looks like I'll be going for the COBB DP for sure then and there is a tuner in scottsdale who is apparently very good that I'll get in touch with soon.

Thanks for the patience guys.

[EJ257]

EJ, am I at danger having the intake without a map for it? And how much difference does a different CAI make on the map? i.e. would a map for the COBB SF work for the K&N, if not really curious why since they both just increase ability to take air in/remove restrictions getting air to engine?

Possibly. I haven't tuned a newer car with the K&N, so I'm not sure what kind of impact it has on the MAF scaling. Honestly, I'd remove it until you can get it tuned properly.

Different intakes will require different MAF scaling. You cannot run the Cobb S#+SF map for the K&N, for the same reason they sell S#+AEM maps.

[azsun]

When I do pull the trigger on this stuff, do I need to get anything extra (gasket, ect) to make it all mate well? Have decided cobb dp with the nameless axle-back. One thing I hear I should get is the grimspeed turbo heat shield (since it fits the new DP and I don't have to tear up the stock one).

[MainFrame]

I'm not too familiar with the newer models, but there's nothing wrong with cutting the stock heatshield to make it fit. That's the cheapest option.

[azsun]

I'm not too familiar with the newer models, but there's nothing wrong with cutting the stock heatshield to make it fit. That's the cheapest option.

Was thinking just for keeping everything stock in good shape.

[MainFrame]

If you have some nostalgia with the stock parts, then by all means get the GS heat shield. .I have one, it's nice.

[11blackwrx]

welcome, i have a cobb heat shield and i think its easier to install that than cut the factory one

[azsun]

Thats what I keep hearing, will probably pick up the GS one then. Is there anything else peripheral like this I'll need?

Also, like I said above... found a tuner in my area who's supposed to be good. Anyone have experience with Dyno-Comp/Richard Garcia? Have seen nothing but rave reviews but figured I'd ask. What risk would I run installing everything myself and driving to the tuner (freeway and ~25mi away)? Would like to do the install piece myself, but not enough that I'll possibly blow my car up on the way to get it tuned